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so after 4-500 miles on my ej25d/ej22e phase I franken motor it sounds like a metal to metal loud deep squeak with a tap and i still have a great ej22 shortblock, im on a very low budget and saw that they both have the same stroke so im wondering if all the bearing sizes are the same between the two motors so i could use 2.2 guts in the 2.5?

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ok so i must have compared the ej22 to the ej18 stroke my bad, but if i was to run a "de-stroked" franken moter, would it be a low enough CR to run low boost, i may sound dumb for asking this, but my ej22 is in pieces and i love trying new things to my car and i got time at hand

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What happened to Low budget?

No offense, but boost is going the complete opposite direction. Forced induction needs a lot more to work than just a Turbo stuck on the engine. You need higher flow injectors, higher flow pump, intake parts, entirely new exhaust. Then you still need the right electronics to make it all work (ECU, sensors, etc), or some form of engine management.

If you want to go that route that's fine, there are plenty of options, but I don't think an Ej22 crank in a 2.5 block is going to work.

 

If you're really stuck on using the 2.5 block, just take it apart and rebuild it.

A set of ACL Race Bearings is like $40-50, need a few O rings from the dealer for the case halves, new head gaskets (again).

 

 

As for the 2.2. What does "in pieces" mean? Did you separate the block halves?

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sorry for the confusion those were just some thoughts like if i was to put together the low compression 2.5 then boost it down the road, as for the 2.2 yes the halves are apart. but the ej25 sb is still under pnp warranty i just have the problem of location a good one

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well it appears i may not have to tear my 2.5 apart, after i took the engine out and down to the longblock i noticed the timimg belt very loose and the tensioner wasn't even touching the tensioner puley and when i pull the belt tight it makes that clunk that sounds just like it did while running, so i slowely re compressed the tensioner like i should and slid it all the way to the left, where it puts the most tension on the belt, tightened it and pulled the pin on it and the rod only came out about half way, not even tensioning the belt.

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2.5 has a longer stroke and is an interference engine. You would have to assemble it, leave the spark plugs out, and SLOWLY turn the engine over until one pistol is @ TDC and then fully open the valves and look down the spark plug hole with a borescope and see if they hit.

 

I say why mess with making a frankenstein motor when the EJ22 was one of the better designed engines? I'd rather have a EJ22 that I could break a timing belt on all day long and not bend valves, over a EJ25 hybrid engine that bends valves when the belt jumps time.

 

 

 

And BTW, Coppercoat isnt designed for all metal gaskets. That stuff was created for the old Graphite style head gaskets found on the EA82s. The one rule that I always stick to, if its got a metal gasket, you put it on dry. No sealer , no RTV, no Right Stuff (that goes for almost any gasket on the engine.) Never reuse a gasket or a seal. They are cheap enough that its pointless to put together an engine reusing old crap. I've started using the FelPro blue metal gaskets and have had ZERO issues with them leaking/causing HG leaks

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well the reason i built the frankenmoter is to have more power, and its alot more than the ej22 in a little rx, i will be replacing the t-belt, as soon as i get the money, and i should have just bought new headgaskets, but i didn't i kinda thought that metal ones were reuseable, just not graphite ones, from now on i wont be reusing any or spaying stuff on them. mine haven't leaked any yet but im always checking and keeping a close eye on temp just in case. thanks for help though

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