46 replies to this topic

[BratRod]

So now on my 85 Brat I dont have power to the coil, and none of the dash is functioning. Still looking for the problem, any suggestions?

Edit: by dash I mean battery volt meter, fuel gauge etc. The "dash lights" (ones activated by the headlight switch) still work

Edited by BratRod, 12 September 2012 - 08:42 PM.

[MilesFox]

check the main fusible link and make sure it has power. the fuse link box connects to the battery post, check that.

check the horn/hazard/clock fuse as it should be hot all time.

then check the ign switch itself if the car is not turning on.

[mikaleda]

check the main fusible link and make sure it has power. The fuse link box connects to the battery post, check that.

Check the horn/hazard/clock fuse as it should be hot all time.

Then check the ign switch itself if the car is not turning on.

+1

[BratRod]

All of the fusible links are good, fuse stays hot all the time, and the switch does work.

[BratRod]

Bump...

[MilesFox]

check the coil wires for polarity. you should have voltage on both terminals. the black wire is positive and the yellow wire is negative.

check ground from engine block to frame.

check the ign relay above the steering column. do you have a click when you turn the key?

[scoobiedubie]

The wire that runs into the back of the alternator, gets hot and melts on some models, like mine. I just test to see how brittle the last few inches of wire are and replace that section every 15,000 miles. When it goes bad, the alternator won't recharge the battery, which then goes dead and the engine won't start, nor will the dash board light up because the batttery is dead. How's your battery?

Have you been to a Subaru dealer lately? They have all sorts of methods to sabotage your car in order to take it off the road, and put you in another one.

The distributors also go bad in some models, like mine. Get a low mileage replacement at an auto wrecker and see if that makes any difference.

The critical black wire in the fusible link module, gets hot, brittle and either breaks or melts. If your car has over 375,000 miles, like mine, you would want to change that little bad boy out with a much lower mileage wire.

Edited by scoobiedubie, 12 September 2012 - 01:27 PM.

[BratRod]

check the coil wires for polarity. you should have voltage on both terminals. the black wire is positive and the yellow wire is negative.

check ground from engine block to frame.

check the ign relay above the steering column. do you have a click when you turn the key?

As for polarity, thats how they worked before this problem.

CHecked block to frame, block to Batt. And tranny to frame.

Yes I hear a click

[BratRod]

The wire that runs into the back of the alternator, gets hot and melts on some models, like mine. I just test to see how brittle the last few inches of wire are and replace that section every 15,000 miles. When it goes bad, the alternator won't recharge the battery, which then goes dead and the engine won't start, nor will the dash board light up because the batttery is dead. How's your battery?

Have you been to a Subaru dealer lately? They have all sorts of methods to sabotage your car in order to take it off the road, and put you in another one.

The distributors also go bad in some models, like mine. Get a low mileage replacement at an auto wrecker and see if that makes any difference.

The critical black wire in the fusible link module, gets hot, brittle and either breaks or melts. If your car has over 375,000 miles, like mine, you would want to change that little bad boy out with a much lower mileage wire.

That cable is fine, I inspected that when I replaced the alternator 400 miles ago.
Never taken my Brat to a subie dealer, and probably never will. My disty seems to be fine with no play in the shaft, although I do suspect the ignition module quite a bit now. All my fusible links test fine...

[Loyale 2.7 Turbo]

... I do suspect the ignition module quite a bit now...

I Kindly suggest you to Look Here: ~► http://www.ultimates...ad.php?t=134135

It is a Writeup about How to easy Test an ignition Module; it is done with the EA82's module but shall be the same procedure on other ignition modules.

Kind Regards.

[BratRod]

I Kindly suggest you to Look Here: ~► http://www.ultimates...ad.php?t=134135

It is a Writeup about How to easy Test an ignition Module; it is done with the EA82's module but shall be the same procedure on other ignition modules.

Kind Regards.

I saw that in the USRM, great write-up by the way Im not ready to pull my distributor quite yet, but when I've had all I can stand I will.

I still have no power to the coil, still tracing that issue.

[Cougar]

On the Loyale models it is critical that fuse 5 is ok. The horn is also on that circuit so that is a good way to check the fuse condition. Perhaps your model is the same way. Make sure you test all the fuses in the dash and verify that power is getting to both sides of them using the slits on top of each side of the fuses. If the fuses are ok then the next check should be the ignition relay. It supplies power to the ECU and ignition area.

[BratRod]

On the Loyale models it is critical that fuse 5 is ok. The horn is also on that circuit so that is a good way to check the fuse condition. Perhaps your model is the same way. Make sure you test all the fuses in the dash and verify that power is getting to both sides of them using the slits on top of each side of the fuses. If the fuses are ok then the next check should be the ignition relay. It supplies power to the ECU and ignition area.

all fuses are good, ingnition relay tests fine

[Cougar]

You stated that the ignition switch was ok but you still have no power to the dash, ignition, and other areas. Check the connector for the ignition switch and see if there is signs of a burned connection. That would be where the trouble is.

[BratRod]

You stated that the ignition switch was ok but you still have no power to the dash, ignition, and other areas. Check the connector for the ignition switch and see if there is signs of a burned connection. That would be where the trouble is.

No burnt wires, and i checked for continuity.

[scoobiedubie]

There is one other item that can keep you engine from starting on the 85 & 86 subarus. That would be the presumable condensor/capacitor that attaches to the coil and to ground, that also keeps the static down on the radio. Incredibly, if that little bad boy goes out, nothing works. I keep a handful of spares. Usually your radio gets real staticy, just before it blows.

[BratRod]

I'll go pick up a condenser tomorrow. On a side note if I run a jumper wire from the + side of the battery, to the + side of the coil I get dash lights. But very little spark

[TomRhere]

Connector for the ignition switch;
White = Battery +
Black = key "ON" (ignition) feed to fuse box
Blue = Accessory feed to fuse box
Black/White = Starter solenoid signal

Fuse 12 is for the ignition system.

Check for battery voltage on Black wire with key "ON", on both the ignition switch connector and the back of the fuse box.
You will have to drop the fuse box down to get to the back of it.

You should also check the wire that comes from fuse 12 for voltage while you're there. I don't have that wire color available.

[BratRod]

Connector for the ignition switch;
White = Battery +
Black = key "ON" (ignition) feed to fuse box
Blue = Accessory feed to fuse box
Black/White = Starter solenoid signal

Fuse 12 is for the ignition system.

Check for battery voltage on Black wire with key "ON", on both the ignition switch connector and the back of the fuse box.
You will have to drop the fuse box down to get to the back of it.

You should also check the wire that comes from fuse 12 for voltage while you're there. I don't have that wire color available.

I checked the black, blue and white. They are functioning as you describe; howerver, I also have black/red and black/yellow
All fuses are getting good power on both sides

[scoobiedubie]

Was your problem solved?

[BratRod]

Nope still searching

[scoobiedubie]

I guess that it is time to finally do something about the distributor. The 85 and 86 gl10 distributors were problematic, as they say. Try finding a spare at a non-official Subaru mechanic, who also collects used subaru parts.

[BratRod]

I guess that it is time to finally do something about the distributor. The 85 and 86 gl10 distributors were problematic, as they say. Try finding a spare at a non-official Subaru mechanic, who also collects used subaru parts.

If thats the case, I'll probably have to order one off here: Not many old Gen collectors that I know of down here

Edited by BratRod, 09 October 2012 - 05:13 PM.

[Cougar]

If the coil isn't getting power to it then replacing the disty isn't going to fix that. If you don't have a factory manual to help you find the trouble I suggest you purchase that instead. Ebay is a good place to find one.

Edited by Cougar, 10 October 2012 - 12:00 AM.

[scoobiedubie]

If thats the case, I'll probably have to order one off here: Not many old Gen collectors that I know of down here

This guy in Oregon has loads of parts. 503-936-9579 or 503-985-7110

You have 4 Pick-n-Pull yards in Dallas.-Fort Worth area.
http://www.picknpull.../locations.aspx