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Guest Message by DevFuse

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EA82 FI overhaul?

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9 replies to this topic

#1 paddler511


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Posted 29 January 2013 - 07:43 PM


I left my 87 GL wagon in ruff shape when I left for New Zealand, and need to fix her up when I get back. She was leakin a lot of oil from either the head or main seal or both? So I'm willing to pull the motor and replace seals, belts, and whatever else ya'll think I should do while I have her on the operatin table? I have a Chilton manual, but any other resources that would help in the process would be much appreciated. Also, what kind I gasket should I use to replace the head gasket? Thanks in advance.

Cheers- Will Pruett

#2 ricepapertiger


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Posted 29 January 2013 - 09:31 PM

I just pulled my motor to do a budget rebuild, started out getting some camshaft seals and the crank seal from Rockauto. Once the motor was out, I drained the oil and found nice milky oil, so I knew a head gasket was needed. Since the motor was out, I was just going to order a whole new seal kit.

Ended up getting this from Rockauto:
FEL-PRO Part # HS9392PT2 PermaDry®; HEAD SETS (HS) are used for upper engine repair only, typically on a valve grind.
PermaDry® molded rubber valve cover gskts. incl.; Premium valve stem seals incl.

It's $101.79 plus shipping. It comes with a bunch of stuff: head gaskets, exhaust gaskets, valve stem seals, various o-rings, oil pump seal, etc. It's at the other garage so I don't know exactly. The first parts I used out of there were valve stem seals after I had my heads resurfaced. The Fel-Pro kit came with camshaft seals, so I have extras now... do not believe it has the crank seal though... could be wrong.

I also ended up ordering three new lifters (~$13 a piece), since a few were squishy when I pulled them out, and I was getting clacking from the motor before I pulled it. Also, GATES "20338" By-Pass Hose $ 3.23-, mine was a little crumbly, new radiator hoses (pretty cheap), motor mounts ($36 for two DEA ones), NGK 7084 Spark Plug $ 2.30(a piece), and a Wix fuel filter for around 11 bucks. I'm going over to the garage to finish up my motor assembly tomorrow. I'll see if I forgot to add anything.

Use Rockauto for all your needs, I have never had anything take more than 4 days to arrive. Prices are sweet too, along with the 5% discount. "1284260310449590" in the "how did you hear about us" box. The code might change by the time you order some parts, but you can almost always find the new one posted online somewhere.

Oh, and if you're going to do the oil pan gasket... I guess do some research. I had installed the cork one on mine a few months ago, but ended up destroying it with minimal torque and having even worse oil leak... Permadry Ultra Grey seems to work for other members though.

Hopefully your motor wasn't in as bad shape as mine even with 118k, it had been sitting for awhile, and some rust got to one of the pistons. Regardless, it's going back in once I get the cam towers and up back on.

Edited by ricepapertiger, 29 January 2013 - 09:37 PM.

#3 Subruise


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Posted 29 January 2013 - 11:48 PM

fyi, you can have your lifters rebuilt through mizpah for around $40 for a complete set

#4 idosubaru


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Posted 30 January 2013 - 07:48 AM

She was leakin a lot of oil from either the head or main seal or both?

i would start by simply repairing the leak first and then go from there.

if it's just a crank seal or valve cover gaskets - that's an hour or less and you're done. why do a multi-day project and replace parts that aren't failing?

if you do: use the Fel Pro headgaskets mentioned above, Subaru only on the intake manifold gasket and thermostat (aftermarkets suck). Don't use regular orings on the cam cases/cam carriers, they are metal reinforced Oring, only Subaru has them - or a very few aftermarket places like www.thepartsbin.com has them. auto parts stores won't carry them.

#5 NorthWet


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Posted 30 January 2013 - 09:28 AM

To amplify something GG said: those "o-rings" for the cam carrier do NOT come with aftermarket (Fel-Pro, etc) HG sets. You HAVE to get them separately, and you will hate yourself if you do not use the proper Subaru part.

#6 Dinky26



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Posted 30 January 2013 - 11:27 PM

Sounds like I'm about at the same point on this deal. How does one know if the orings on the cam cases/towers need to be replaced.

Lifters rebuilt???

Should I be doing that before I put her all back together, certainly won't be this month before I'm done though either:lol::lol::lol:

Resurfacing heads I've seen both sides on that one, some do some don't??? Looks like to me it's been apart before to, and at one point she got really hot, hot enough to melt the timing covers that are bolted to the engine, seems worse on the drivers side as well, bad enough I had to get the Dremel to get the bolts out of the head, there's about 1/4-3/8" gap below the timing gear cog on that cam tower:slobber::eek:.... Should I be worried?? Of course not going to be my DD, but I want her done right to LOL:clap:

#7 Subruise


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Posted 31 January 2013 - 12:23 AM

ALWAYS replace the orings. ALWAYS use subaru oem cam case oring PN: 13089AA010 (x2). ALWAYS resurface heads, there are threads on DIY or take em in. last but not least...ALWAYS read more than you think you need to and use multiple methods of searching. become one with the task at hand, try to envision it before you go out to the garage.

as far as lifters go, you can get em rebuilt by mizpah for 40ish a set (8). believe me when i say they do fantastic work and its worth every cent.

cheers RV

#8 rdweninger


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Posted 01 February 2013 - 12:00 PM

Subaruise.... who and where is mizpah? do you have a phone # for them?

#9 Dinky26



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Posted 01 February 2013 - 01:36 PM


#10 Subruise


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Posted 01 February 2013 - 06:05 PM

Subaruise.... who and where is mizpah? do you have a phone # for them?

i see someone helped you already. dont forget to harness the power and search. its actually quite easy. sometimes, i make up words and search them just to see what comes up.

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