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Guest Message by DevFuse

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1985 gl 1.8 ea82 motor trubble


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11 replies to this topic

#1 tummybubble



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Posted 10 September 2013 - 11:19 PM

When i drive my 85 gl and get the motor to about three thousand to four thousand rpms the motor starts to stall and there is a major loss of power it also happens when going up hill im not sure what the proble is my guess would be i need to rebuild my carb or mabe my timing belts but yet agen im not to sure if any one has any other ideas please share the knowledge



#2 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 10 September 2013 - 11:50 PM

I could advice to Change all the Vacuum Hoses if they're Old & Brittle, also a Carburator rebuild is Good Idea if you suspect it is Acting... and those Hitachi Carbs are a True Nightmare, I Swapped a 32/36 Weber Carb on my '85 "BumbleBeast" Years ago and never had a Carb issue so Far, plus gained Low end Torque and Boxer Engine Rumble Noise!


Also check the Timin' Belts, and if the initial timing is properly set, maybe your engine needs a Full Tune Up, you know... SparkPlugs, Fuel Filter, etc...


Kind Regards.

#3 NorthWet


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Posted 10 September 2013 - 11:53 PM

Fuel filter?  Spark plugs/wires/rotor/cap?


Is this the same car that you posted elsewhere as a failed air-suction-valve (ASV)?  Sucking exhaust could be your problem.

Edited by NorthWet, 10 September 2013 - 11:55 PM.

#4 tummybubble



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Posted 11 September 2013 - 12:06 AM

Yea thanks you guys and how hard is it to swap the carbs what am i going to need to find to swap them if you know a place with the info info that would be awsome

#5 Gloyale


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Posted 11 September 2013 - 01:35 PM

Don't swap carbs.


First.....change the fuel filter(s) and make sure the timing/spark is good (good plugs, cap, rotor)


After that, if you still have hesitation, take the top off the carb and clean out the emulsion tubes, jets, and bottom of the bowl to get grit/gunk out.


Reseal/rebuild kit is less than $25.  You don't need to take the carb off the intake, just ake off the top of the carb.  There is one very small cotter pin that holds the choke linkage that's a bit tricky......otherwise it's really easy. 


take off the accel pump linkage (note the washer setup) then remove the five screws from the top.  Unclip the wires from the side.  Disconnect teh one that goes to the choke so they won't catch when you flip the top over.


Honestly it's super easy.  Takes less than an hour to do a good job.  Will run like a whole new car when done.

#6 tummybubble



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Posted 11 September 2013 - 08:45 PM

Awsome thanks for the advice its verry appreciated

#7 skishop69


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Posted 11 September 2013 - 09:09 PM

Also check exhaust back pressure. If the CAT is plugged, the same thing can happen.

#8 tummybubble



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Posted 12 September 2013 - 12:50 PM

Cool thats somthing i hadnt thought about

#9 AdventureSubaru


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Posted 12 September 2013 - 01:25 PM

Start with fresh plugs and wires. This is super cheap and super easy. What you described sounds like faulty plug wires. if that doesn't fix it, look to your fuel filters and possibly the pump. Could be something else, but I wouldn't look there until you've checked these things first.


My experience says that carb issues will usually be more problematic at idle than 3000RPM+


Is this car new to you? Or was this something that developed recently?

#10 jono


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Posted 12 September 2013 - 05:15 PM

It can help that the engine is at operating temp when removing the spark plugs - just be aware of hot engine components and bare skin. The heat helps with the plugs threads release. I use anto sieze grease on the threads on install.


I just fixed a low speed , with load miss - it was a 1.0mm plug gap on one plug instead of 0.8mm of the others :)


Yours sounds more like fuel filter, fuel line s can crud up inside too with rusty stuff. I have found to blow backwards through open ended lines with compressed air has blown out said crud and fixed my problem

#11 ehartshorn



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Posted 12 September 2013 - 07:52 PM

I would agree with the fuel filter first.  


Go easy on the compressed air on the lines; they aren't designed to take 120 psi!!  And I would not try the compressed air except as a last resort.  if the sock on the end of the pickup is the problem (or even if corrosion in the lines), then you will blow the sock off and all that floating crud will start heading towards your engine.  Better to drop the tank, blow out the lines and clean the tank if it is that bad.


"blow backwards through open ended lines " +1


Just change the filter and see what happens, don't worry about the rest.  Always start withe the simple stuff "K.I.S.S".

Edited by ehartshorn, 12 September 2013 - 07:54 PM.

#12 tummybubble



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Posted 14 September 2013 - 12:22 PM

Well the car is new to me it was givin to me i plant to eventuly just tear the motor and tranny out any ways to put in a whole new power plant but i need it to just run for the time being tell i have the funds to swap every thing so im gunna take a little of every ones advise and all replace the fule filter check the pressure that my fule pump is putting out what it should all drop my fule tank clear my lines and replase my plug wires plugs and cap and roter and i still might rebild my carb just so i will know that it is not a problem as well thank you all for the info you guys are awsome i love this form its the best place for info and help that ive found yet so once again thank you all you guys are awsome

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