Buying 96 Impreza

[provin1327]

I posted this on another forum and got quite a smug response, I'm just looking for some advice from a few people who know a thing or two about Subarus. I'm looking to buy an old 96 Legacy. I live in Colorado and have been a Jeep fiend for years but I need to sell my current Jeep and buy something cheaper for financial reasons. I am looking at a 1996 Impreza Outback Sport 2.2L with 186,000 miles for $1,800. The drivers fender needs to be painted, the hood has a bit of surface rust from a small fender bender and the windshield is cracked (normal Colorado thing) but for the most part it seemed to run fine mechanically. The engine sounded like it had a bit of a whine but this is the first Subaru I have driven and I'm guessing it's normal because there was no sign of a knock or tick and the sound got louder in the higher rpm range. The interior is alright, just needs a little TLC, power windows and locks work fine, AC needs to be recharged but for the most part it's all small cosmetic stuff. I am moving out for college and can make about $6,000 if I sell my Jeep and buy this Impreza for $2,000, normally I would not buy anything this old or with this many miles, but finance is what is pushing me to consider this old car. My only concern is the mileage. Do these things run long before they have major mechanical problems? I am a gear head and know my way around cars due to years of 4wheeling and modifying Jeeps but I don't have any experience on cars or flat 4 engines. Owner says timing belt and water pump were just changed and the tires are practically new. Does this sound like an ok deal for $1,800? I just need something that will do decent in the snow and last me another 3-4 years with fairly small amounts of driving.

 

Edited December 3, 2013 by provin1327

[cal_look_zero]

I got my 97 two years ago for $1500 with 226k, bald tires, pot scented interior, cracked windshield, and piston slap...

Sounds like a good deal to me.

I recently sold a 95 legacy that had 308k miles on it.

[provin1327]

What are some things to look out for? Anything common that goes out? I heard that there is a head gasket problem on early 2000's 2.5L but not much about the 2.2L. Both Jeeps and Subarus are very popular in Colorado, for good reason. Are Subarus fairly easy to work on? Jeeps are like a tin can, that's what I am used to.

[AdventureSubaru]

I drive a 97 Impreza with 277,000 miles. My wife drives a 2000 outback with 334,000 miles. And seen several make it past 500k. These cars are pretty bullet proof.

 

The price sounds good if it seems well maintained. New timing belt is surely a plus. Subarus hold their value because those of us who know them can run them forever.

 

I wouldn't hesitate on that car if it seems solid. You can keep them running on a very low budget. Colorado junkyards will have good options for replacement parts should you need them. And these cars are so simple to work on. If you get the car, refer back to this board anytime you need help or advice. It makes owning an older subaru a breeze.

 

The EJ18 and EJ22 that came in the Imprezas were some of the best motors Subaru ever made.

 

Welcome!

Edited December 3, 2013 by AdventureSubaru

[provin1327]

You guys rock, I think I am going to pull the trigger on this old beater

[mikec03]

I just bought a 95 legacy with 126K for $2200.  So your price is in the ballpark.  Check a few things if only to get the price down:

 

Are the struts OK

 

The CV boots [4 on front axles] and boots on the steering may be split.

 

The exhaust may be ready to fall apart, especially the flanges upstream from the cat converter. 

 

Check for bad rust in the frame under the rear end.

 

Also ask seller for information on what was done when the timing belt was replaced.  The pulleys should have been replaced, although this is a non interference engine so a timing belt problem wouldn't be catastrophic.
 

[provin1327]

Besides driving it over a speed bump and feeling like you're in a boat, is there a good way to check struts? There didn't seem to be any rust at all on the underside, and the downpipe of the exhaust looked like it had just been replaced. I'll turn the wheels lock to lock to see if the boots are split but I didn't see any noticeable globs of grease or any grease that looks like it has been thrown out from the CV joints. I gave him a call and told him I should be buying it tomorrow after one more test drive (in the snow hopefully after the 4 inches that may fall tonight )
 

[provin1327]

Whoop whoop

 

Edited December 4, 2013 by provin1327

[AdventureSubaru]

YEAH!!! Good looking Impreza you've got there.

 

Welcome to the madness.

[MilesFox]

This is a good example of what to consider for a used subaru. The 2.2 engine for that year is not prone to the same HG issues as later models. The timing belt may be non-interference for that year. The worst to expect from the mileage is having to replace the WP by 200,000 miles to prevent failure. Consider the WP and timing belt done together with new idlers by 200,000 mi.

 

I would not be disappointed at all with the surface rust on the hood considering (by the pctures) there is no rust on the rear quarter panel where the bumper meets the wheel arch (the muinting clip likes to rust out, be sure to wash behind the fender lip, remove the mud flaps to wash and wax)

 

That generation between 93-and 99 are the most solid reliability wise. Don't consider the car high mileage until it has 250,000 on it.

 

Also consider, that if and when you need to replace the struts, you can install forester (98-02) struts and springs for more lift

Edited December 4, 2013 by MilesFox

[provin1327]

Good to know. I replaced the battery today and drove it in the snow. Wow is this thing AWESOME in the snow!!! I'm used to a big, short, stocky Jeep with 33" x 12.5 tires that just float on the snow and track everywhere. The Impreza cuts through the snow and that's without a nice set of winter tires, I can only imagine what a set of Blizzaks would feel like. I don't have any evidence for it but the owner did say the water pump and timing belt were both just replaced. The only thing that catches me is a whine in the front diff once I get up around 40 mph, is this normal? I am assuming the gears are just a bit worn and it may get quieter with a fluid chance, either way not really a big deal. Also, the air bag light is on. I haven't done a search on the forums yet but what is a good place to start so I can get that annoying red light off?

Edited December 6, 2013 by provin1327

[provin1327]

Also, I cant seem to find a good sticky or FaQ on fluid levels and fluid types. I would like to change all of the fluids once it warms up. The only info I found was some good gear oil for the transmision, a castrol oil that is only sold via GM. What do you guys use for viscosity in the diffs and engine?

[cal_look_zero]

Also, I cant seem to find a good sticky or FaQ on fluid levels and fluid types. I would like to change all of the fluids once it warms up. The only info I found was some good gear oil for the transmision, a castrol oil that is only sold via GM. What do you guys use for viscosity in the diffs and engine?

Rotella T 10w30 for the engine.

A good 80w90 in the rear diff

Run "Scotty's Cocktail" in the gearbox: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=920674

 

[provin1327]

Sounds good. Just have to wait before it gets above -15* to do anything :0 I haven't had a chance to really poke around this guy since it's been so cold and I don't have a garage. Thanks for the advice guys. I won't be modifying this Subaru but if I ever need any help on repairs or maintenance I know where to go

[provin1327]

Looks like this sub zero weather put a crack in the radiator, where the plastic meets the metal, just above the fan. I was sitting at a stop light and started hearing a clunk, like something was hitting the fan. Started steaming a bit and noticed the crack when I parked. Now I also have no heat from my interior HVAC and the fans stay running the whole time. I know the radiator is an easy replacement but what about the heat problem, why would that start? Could there be a clog in the system which also helped the crack form? The radiator fluid looks a little dirty and it's overfull. When the engine is at full operating temperature the overflow bottle is totally topped off, shouldn't it only be at the full mark when it's at full operating temperature?

Edited December 6, 2013 by provin1327

[provin1327]

I believe further inspection has answered my questions. The radiator overflow works on expansion and contraction, if there is a crack in the system then it can't (efficiently) draw coolant from the reservoir which is why it's full. The clunking I heard may have just been a piece of ice because there doesn't appear to be any damage under the hood. I checked the radiator and it's empty :0 so I am guessing the -10* temps outside plus the fans running have been enough to keep it cool. The fact that the heat was working and has now stopped probably means there was enough coolant but since I have been running it these past few days it has dried up through the leak...maybe. I will replace the radiator and follow up.

[AdventureSubaru]

The heat comes from your warmed coolant. When the coolant gets low, the first thing to go is your heat, shortly thereafter, the engine will run hot.

 

Replace the cracked radiator and you should be ok. Make sure you get good coolant in there that wont freeze in your low temps. And go over everything a few times while the car is running to be sure no other hoses or anything cracked in the cold.

[provin1327]

Yep, Ive had to replace radiators in three different Jeeps so its nothing new, just wish I had a garage to work in :/ I will report back in about a week once it warms up and I can get the radiator in.

[provin1327]

Replaced the radiator and coolant, now thats what I call HEAT!! Whew, the inside is nice and warm now

Edited December 8, 2013 by provin1327

[provin1327]

Came to the forum to ask another question and figured I would update this.

 

Only issues I have had

 

1. The whine I was hearing when I test drove was the center diff and viscus unit. Once it got up to temp it would cause the front wheels to lock up on tight turns. This was because it was binding and acting like a locker. $60 for a new junkyard unit, took a day to install.

 

2. Drivers window controller just crapped out, easy fix.

 

3. Rear diff drain plug is close to being rounded, looks like someone tried to remove it with a 1/2" wrench but it actually takes a 13mm drain socket

 

4. Have yet to re-charge A/C as it is leaking, probably from the schrader valve on the low pressure side.

 

Aside from that it's running good.

[1 Lucky Texan]

always remove the fill plug first anyway on the rear diff.

soak that drain plug in Kroil or 50:50 ATF and acetone for a few days.

even if it still won't budge, try s propane torch on it for 15 seconds, spray with kroil. let it cool, try again. use more heat if you have too - your changing the fluid anyway. Get a new plug.

I used something like this to fill;

 

change the o-rings on the suction and discharge hose connectors at the a/c compressor, and both schrader valves. Fill per the amount listed on a lablel under the hood somewhere.

Edited July 28, 2015 by 1 Lucky Texan

[ccrinc]

Came to the forum to ask another question and figured I would update this.

 

Only issues I have had

 

1. The whine I was hearing when I test drove was the center diff and viscus unit. Once it got up to temp it would cause the front wheels to lock up on tight turns. This was because it was binding and acting like a locker. $60 for a new junkyard unit, took a day to install.

 

2. Drivers window controller just crapped out, easy fix.

 

3. Rear diff drain plug is close to being rounded, looks like someone tried to remove it with a 1/2" wrench but it actually takes a 13mm drain socket

 

4. Have yet to re-charge A/C as it is leaking, probably from the schrader valve on the low pressure side.

 

Aside from that it's running good.

Yeah, here in Colorado, that was definitely a righteous buy.  Cars like that go for $3K all the time.  Glad to hear you're happy with it.

 

Emily

[turodoggy]

I just want to mention that since these cars have aluminum engines, it is best to use a certain type of coolant.

I am using Pentofrost A3 which I got at autozone. It was a little cheaper than the Subaru blue coolant.

If I remember correctly, Pentofrost A2 works also, and A3 is the next version, which has a longer life span if its not mixed with any other coolant. The Same goes for the Subaru green coolant, and the newer blue coolant.

If you did use a different type of coolant, and you are going to switch to this type, you do have to flush the entire system first since different coolants mixed together can causes more problems.

 

 

I also got my 96 Outback EJ25 with 130,000 miles on it for about $3,000 and it required some work. Mostly the head gaskets.

Edited July 28, 2015 by turodoggy

[Flowmastered87GL]

186,000 miles is low.  In college I had an 87 GL with 212K, finally junked it at 321K.

 

I would want to know what maintenance was done to the car.  Pretty make sure the timing belt and regular maintenance has been done and the car should last a while.