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help 1990 legacy will not start have tried everything


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nothing seems to work or match up with the book I bought for it. I have fuel spark wont even try to start used starting fluid still not even a pop. book says the the cam/crank sensors need .1v ac im getting between .3 and .5  same with coil and throttle position sensor the readings the book calls for and what I have are different. even went to salvage yard with guarantee parts that work took readings and same as what I have on my parts is book wrong or did I buy a lemon. ran great first two months then just died

help

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Good news is that your car is non-interference so if it is a timing belt it's an easy fix. Replace the belt to drive again (There's a good writeup I can share if that's what it is) or even better to get a timing component kit and get everything updated/reliable. Belts are about $15-$40. A full gates kit is about $150. I'm about to do a full refresh on my outback.

 

Post back with results on the timing belt. That's your most likely culprit. If not, the hunt continues.

Edited by AdventureSubaru
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well belt tension looks good . the book says there is a way to get your codes out of it thru the mil but my car doesent seem to have that harness. I looked under dash drivers side where supposed to be and ???? nothing looks to be correct. and the search goes on. 

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it is possible the test connectors are still taped up in the harness under the dash. Look for a larger lump in the tape.

(you did remove the lower dash panel, right?)

They should be between the steering column and door frame. There is a pair of single wire green connectors, and a pair of single wire black connectors in the same area.

 

For excellent help using the connectors once you find them, try here.

 

It is also possible that your car may have jumped time. Easy to verify without pulling everything apart.

remove the 2 outer timing covers, turn the crank bolt by hand with a large ratchet & 22MM socket to line up one of the cam timing marks - if the other cam mark is not in proper alignment, it has jumped time.

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i believe it did jump time after closer look at belt tension notice that the timing marks were not lined up on one side and after pulling cover on opposite side that timing mark was off as well so pulled apart to retime it and i think i found what did it the tensioner pulley bolt is stripped and i think that it

allowed the belt to slip. needs longer bolt now after rethreading it will see what that does... i did

find the green and black wires under the dash and pluged them in and fan started running sporatically is that something normal??

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great, glad you found it.

 

get a used (or new - they're not that expensive i don't think) bracket.  the tensioner is bolted to a bracket which is easily replaceable - just 2 or 3 bolts hold it to the block. 

http://www.mttechsuba.com/picture/timing%20belt%20tensioner%20bracket.jpg?pictureId=2382432&asGalleryImage=true

that will have brand new threads in it.

 

longer bolt - i usually chase the threads with a tap too so what's left is clean.  M10x1.25 threads.  being that it's int he bracket you may have limited threads to work with like the typical block bolt holes though?

helicoil will repair it for good.  pull the bracket and do it off the vehicle.

 

yes - plugging them in will run certain diagnostics - fans come on, fuel pump will cycle every few seconds, etc.  totally normal.

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thanks for all the help I reinstalled the timing belt after retiming it and runs good. is it common for them to jump time after new belt replacement. it didn't act abnormal it just stopped running or could a wobble in the tension pulley let it jump. I just want to be sure that its not going to happen again due to an issue that is developing.

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It can happen but not very common. The tensioner bracket may have been over or under tightened and caused the fail over some distance. As mentioned, the mounting plate/bracket/whatever is replaceable. I have a couple sitting in the garage if you would like a replacement or spare. If yours isn't going anywhere, then you're probably good to drive.

 

Glad you got it running again!

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Well did it again im sittin 30 miles out of jerome id i dont know why it keeps doin it i re threaded the tensioner pulley cause was striped thought that was issue lasted 300 miles did same thing. I dont have a bracket to apply tension on mine it has a pulley with a hydralic ranm that keeps it tite wonder if thats the problem never the less dont have time to keep messin with it so will be goin up for sale if anyone is interested

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these things are a piece of spoob put on new tensioner ram will start fine with starting fluid so I belive the fuel pump went now.. what a piece of crap do a little preventative maintance and all hell breaks loose goin to sell it and go buy a chevy . this is the worst vehicle I have ever owned  had for 3 months been in shop 2 and has now cost me more than what I bought it for and have only gotten 2 full trips to work out of it.  Subaru is not worth the American sold to japan paper clips/recycled steel its made out of. piece of spoob

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you re-threaded a stripped bracket. the timing has slipped. a 1990 legacy is better in almost any way than a chevy of equal value. do your homework and fix that sucker. they will start w jumped time, and doubly so w starting fluid. You gotta think subaru and not bow tie when working on or diagnosing these, two different and awesome things. 

 

 

if you were closer id come buy it, fix it in two hours, and drive it away

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it is not a bracket, it is a pulley that is put into tension by a hydraulic ram that pushes against the pulley which in turn pushes the belt into tension that ram was apparently bad per techs at Subaru that's what they told me. and last I checked if plugs aren't wet when trying to start it that means no fuel which in turn means pump is bad, I know filter is ok because I replaced it 300 miles ago .  I have done my homework been working on this hunk of spoob for 2 months the fuel pump is bad I guarantee you cant start it w/out fluid and also with trying to time it. IT STARTS AND RUNS ON STARTING FLUID,WILL NOT RUN WITH OUT THAT MEANS NO FUEL GETTING TO COMBUSTION CHAMBER, FUEL PUMP IS BAD. chevy fuel pump 30 bucks 20 min change out , Subaru fuel pump,200  bucks and remove out of tank have to install pump to pick up system, reinstall , prime..... you think can drive away come give it a try you start it w/out any thing other than timing it I will make you a smoking deal

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here is the challenge. if any one thinks they can get it running, and to idle for 5 min in my driveway, I will sell it for 500 bucks as is. but that means you start it as is, no more parts, no funky stuff. time it and run it. I will put covers back on bolt all back together as if it did it on freeway, will start for you w/fluid let you hear it start, run for 3 seconds and die then you have 2 hrs  to get it running with no parts added. just timing it. I want to see it done. but if you cant then you pay me 1400 for it, which is what I have into it minus parts that I have put into it thus far, and you get it off my property that day, any takers?????

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I have a 93vgmc and a 90 subaru. I love my gmc, but my Subaru is superior in most every way. Sometimes they can be tricky, but you just need to have faith it will work and listen to the people on here. We can help you get it going, but your going to need to help us help you

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Just because its not getting fuel doesn't mean the pump is bad, a bad cam sensor can cause this as well. Besides a fuel pump on one of these is super easy to do. Start by checking the codes and we can go from there

Edited by mikaleda
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 Funky. Try hot wiring pump. see if that helps. As for the tensioner pulley , ithink some guys are confusing it with the ac belt it has a three bolt bracket wich is removable. Timing belt tensioner pulley is bolted to the block directly. These threads are usually stripped when someone tries to reinstall pulley without collapsing the tensioner ram. Rethread, helicoil, jb weld, whatever should do it. there is sideways force on this but nothing pulling against it. This has happened to me before. The last subi i bought jumped time because of the the steam from a bad water pump washed out the bearings on the bottom idler wheel causing the wheel to sporaticaly sieze, jumping time.  If this things having fuel problems a backfire or stutter could possibly make it jump time. what codes did it show?

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that's what I thought this thing is a piece of crap

 

Geez dude. Anybody who declares their car to be a piece of crap over a $30. fix that takes a couple hours to do has no business driving 1990s cars and similar. Lease something with zero miles and pay a few hundred $$$ per month to have a new car and bumper to bumper warranty.

 

or live with a used car and the fact that they need some time and money invested from time to time.

 

if it skipped again, replace the mounting bracket and tensioner and know that it's done right this time. (I'll send you a bracket at cost of shipping if you so choose.)

 

If it's a fuel pump buy a used one from a dismantler or self service yard. (Usually $20-$40) they don't die that often and can be replaced out of the trunk in about 30 minutes.

 

if it's a cam sensor - I have a few of these sitting in a can in the garage. Again, I'll send you one at cost of shipping.

 

But don't declare it a piece of crap when a 24 year old car is in need of a little time and effort to keep chugging along. I understand frustration when you just want it to work, but be realistic here. No 24 year old car is going to run flawlessly and maintenance free year in and year out. Gotta spend a little money and time here and there or spend the big bucks for brand new stuff.

 

Stick with it. If it's running off starting fluid it can only be a few things. None of which are very labor intensive or expensive. Way more hassle and $$$ lost to sell it non running and try and buy something else. You'll be wasting time and money and likely just getting more problems with whatever you replace it with. You already know the issues. Just figure it out and fix it.

 

PM me if you want a mounting bracket or cam sensor. car-part.com for a used fuel pump.

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I have a pump ill sell you for super cheap then.....

No hard feelings here, trust me. 

 

 

We are an enthusiastic crowd, and this enthusiasm compels us to want to help other soobs....i mean soob owners

 

pardon my prejudice. Ive seen so many "chevy guys" become irate with the simplicity of our rigs its comical. 

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here is the challenge. if any one thinks they can get it running, and to idle for 5 min in my driveway, I will sell it for 500 bucks as is. but that means you start it as is, no more parts, no funky stuff. time it and run it. I will put covers back on bolt all back together as if it did it on freeway, will start for you w/fluid let you hear it start, run for 3 seconds and die then you have 2 hrs  to get it running with no parts added. just timing it. I want to see it done. but if you cant then you pay me 1400 for it, which is what I have into it minus parts that I have put into it thus far, and you get it off my property that day, any takers?????

You declare it a piece of crap if it can be started will sell for 500 bucks but NOT RUNNING you want 1400?.  Does it come with a bunch of the Crack you are smokin at that price?

 

As for tensioner......What people are telling you is that the part the is behind the hydraulic ram.......the part that the ram and tensioner pulley bolt to.....is a seperate piece from the block......it unbolts and can be replaced......restoring the stripped threads......

 

If the timing belt is too far out.....the injectors will not fire......even if the pump is pumping.....

 

How about a fuel pressure test for some actual diagnosis....instead of "if it was a this it would do that"

 

get out some real tools and your big boy pants and stop having a tantrum at us.  Test for voltage at pump while cranking......if volts but pump doesn't work......THEN the pump is bad.

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if the car isnt rusted out, it is far from a piece of spoob.

 

you have been getting solid advice, try some of it...

 

If you were closer, I would take that piece of "spoob" off your hands in a "heartbeat" over a chevy any day of the week - I happen to know somebody whose daughter is looking for a car after hers was totaled by a drunk driver.

Edited by heartless
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Take a chill pill and have a little patience. The tensioner failed and is letting the belt slip. The seals inside blow out if you try to compress it too fast. Used tensioner should be fine. Just have to have some patience when compressing it.

 

Trust me, Chevys have many many much worse problems than this. Wait til you get to the mid 2000 models where the control modules will just fail for no reason. And you can't fix those yourself, it HAS to go to a dealer to have the module reprogrammed.

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