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Posted 30 June 2004 - 02:47 PM
Posted 30 June 2004 - 02:53 PM
If you are lifted, you'll want to pull an axle each time you go on pavement - the stress from the bigger tires can break the axles pretty easily. On a stock rig your tires will chirp around corners, and you axles won't last as long, but I doubt you would break one.
Posted 30 June 2004 - 03:09 PM
Posted 30 June 2004 - 03:13 PM
Posted 30 June 2004 - 03:23 PM
those little bb's can't be good for your gears:rolleyes:
82 SubaruHummer welded!
01 Forester LSD!
Posted 30 June 2004 - 06:15 PM
Posted 30 June 2004 - 06:39 PM
Posted 01 July 2004 - 05:08 PM
I'd suggest using a mig welder so that you have less splatter and no slag to try to clean out.
What you'll need:
mig welder with a fairly strong wire.
Open rear differential
1st, remove and open the diff. drain all the oil out and spray down the whole inside with brake cleaner to remove as much oil residue as possible. let the cleaner evaporate.
set up you oxy/accetelyne torch with a good flame. you'll be using this to preheat the gears.
place torch inside onto the spider gears and center shaft. try to put as little heat on the ring and pinion gears (if you are not removing the open carrier and R&P's.) heat the gears up till you believe it is sufficent. (don't melt them...)
take your mig gun and put a good tack weld on all 4 corners where the gears meet. on side 1. then repeat on side 2.
put full welds on the 8 total areas (side 1 and 2). where the gears mesh. then what i've had done to all the lincoln lockers i have had made. is to weld the center shaft to the gears. that way the gears will not break and seperate. they are one big piece in the center.
BETWEEN EACH SIDE AND BETWEEN WELDING THE CENTER IT'S ALWAYS A GOOD IDEA TO MAKE SURE THE GEARS ARE STAYING PREHEATED. SO THROWING IN THE TORCH HERE AND THERE WHEN THERE'S PAUSES IN YOU WELDING IS NOT A BAD IDEA. JUST DON'T OVER DO!!
keep the cover off and let it air cool. don't put anything on it to make it cool quicker. cause you'll make it brittle and easier to break. let it set over night (if possible, but do not fill when warm or hot with oil) then fill with oil. and you are ready to use it.
it's suggested to remove one axle while driving on the street. do to the extra strain on the axles and the rest of the rear drivetrain. this is an excellent modification for OFFROAD rigs. it will help gain a lot more traction than a limited slip ever will.
HOW TO REMOVE THE AXLE:
To remove the axle on a EA81 car. remove lower shock bolt. lift up the rear of the car till the tire is off. punch roll pin out. and wiggle the axle around till you get it off. usually one side or the other will come off easiest. as soon as you find which side. stick with that side to remove. it's also a good idea to put a light lubricant on each time to make sure it removes easier.
it's the same idea and the same way as any other rig to weld up the open differential.
Posted 01 July 2004 - 08:09 PM
Might be a little hairy on a wet winding road?
This is my Brat/Brumby....
Posted 02 July 2004 - 04:25 AM
The key to not blowing up your axles is to remember that CV's (and DOJ's too) are rated for how many RPM's they can stand at a given angle. Thus the steeper the angle, the fewer RPM's they can handle before failure. How are you planning to do the lift in the rear? If you are going to go with suspension lift like my wagon (I have about 3 of suspension), then I sugest some thought be put into using EA82 DOJ's, and maybe some limiting straps to limit downward travel when that wheel is in the air. Mine were running at such an extreme angle, that even though I had broken one rear axle and already removed it, the welded diff snapped the other axle too when I was attempting a hill climb (wheel in the air, rotating at high speed - BOOM). I broke both axles that day, and drove home with 2WD. That's a strong diff....
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