SubSandRail

Here is my list. I got 70% done when a bad driver rear-ended me and totaled it. Insurance is done so I am looking again, and this is my plan: Start with the body style you want. -----I picked a post-1982 wagon. I can fit a canoe on top and Cub Scouts in the back seat. Choose between a more reliable EA-81 or a higher horse power EA82 -----I went with reliability (no timing belt) For offroad, you will have more fun if you stay away from the turbo. Get the dual range manual tranny. Go for the torsion rear suspension. I use one on my sand rail, and spend a lot of time with all four wheels in the air. No breakage yet. I do, however, have a pile of bent coil-overs from the rear end of the non-torsion Soobs. I am abusing the coil-overs in a non-stock setup, but have broken enough to want to stay away from them. For me, that narrowed the search to 83 and 84. If you are looking for a Brat, they kept the torsion so you could go with the later models as well. The Brats are more popular, so the prices and availability for spare body parts is not so good. After you buy it: KEEP IT COOL ----- new radiator & water pump ----- oil cooler (talk to WJM if he still has access) 6 lug hub conversion, after you do a rear disk conversion 3 inch lift 28" mud tires a little fender trimming to improve approach angles.

The insurance company has offered to settle, and I'll get more money if I let them keep the car. It may only need to have the rear hatch pryed out and replaced, and a new tail-light, but I my wife is really leaning on my to let it go and get a less "ugly" car. If anyone within driving distance wants the car, make an offer, FAST. Otherwise I will mail the title to the insurance company. I'll start a for-sale thread.

I'll wait to hear from the adjuster before deciding what to do. If the rear door can be replaced without body work to the inside decking and door frame, repairs will be simple. My wife is pushing for a newer (less "ugly") car, and I want to have a replacement in two weeks when hunting season starts. I have done a search for 83-84 wagons with D/R 4WD, and can't find any. I may be stuck with an EA82, so all my spare parts will be useless. Fortunately I have not had time to install the 6 lug hubs and Buckshot Mudders, so they are available for whatever I end up with. Private party sales for EA82 D/R wagons are about $1000. I know you can get them cheaper, but then the adjuster will have to kick in the extra money for my time and keep paying for the rental while I look. Cheaper for them to write a check for the high-end private party value so I can just go buy one. If you go with the program, you get screwed. That is why the program is there. The important thing is to do your homework so that you know your rights and the real local value of your vehicle. If it does not have a dual range tranny, it is not a candidate for determining value. Supply is low and demand is high for that configuration. I spent $200 upgrading the cooling system of the 83, and have to assume that whatever I buy will need the same. They can "refuse" to cooperate and say that they are not "allowed" to offer more, but the law determines their liability, not internal company policies.

I expect a call from the insurance company today. Their adjuster visited the car Friday then called me to talk about the "pre-existing damage". No part of the car looks "new" but everything was straight and functional. I can't tell if the rear door frame is toast until the rear door is removed, which will take power tools. I suspect it will be totaled, which really screws up my elk hunt and October Oregon Dunes trip. I spent three months looking for this configuration (torsion rear end, 4WD D/R, wagon, EA81) and don't have time to search again unless they line my pockets with enough money to buy the first one I find at a dealership. If somebody wants a trail rig and does not mind a non-functional rear door, all they will have to do is fix the left turn lights. The engine is good (two recent trips from Tacoma to Spokane and back, 30.6 mpg) and the radiator and water pump are brand new. I put in a blue dash & all the blue plastic, and blue door panels. If it is totaled, and I can line up a buyer, I may buy it back and sell it locally to a board member. It would be a shame to strip a functional car.

Stop & go traffic.... Guy behind me falls asleep at the wheel.... I was at a full stop and he hit me at 25mph "I just fell asleep" he says! Now I have a giant Jeep SUV bumper print across the back of my car. Smashed rear hatch door, smashed bumper, door jamb bent, smashed tail lights, and the driver seat back won't adjust (just flops around). The guy wanted some sympathy because his car was brand new and cost him $48K. Then starts to imply that my car must have had previous damage, he could not have done all that. What a jerk. It took three months to find this configuration in good shape and a good price (83 or 84 GL wagon, D/R 4WD). Stiff back, but his insurance has already accepted full liability and provided a rental. I was surprised how much zip those 2005 Ford Focus' have. My wife likes the rental better, but it won't survive the jeep trails, so it is no good to me. Archery elk season starts in three weeks, and I don't have time to settle this and find another car, so I hope they decide to repair it.

9/16 is too large, I used 17/32 and it was too small. I ended up drilling the 17/32 holes, then wobbling the hub around a little to hog out a little more material, and was able to pull the studs in with an impact driver. Take the time to harvest extra lug nuts, and after using one to drive in a stud, throw it away. Otherwise you will end up stripping out the threads and starting over. Lug nuts are cheap at the junkyard. If you can find one, I suppose 33/64 is the right size. It probably corresponds to some metric size that is equally expensive and hard to find.

Try these. I saw a guy out of Salem oregon running tires just like these on the Oregon Dues at Florence last weekend. He had them on an old Justy and got around fine. I bet they would work great in the mud or on the sand. http://www.rockymountainatv.com/home.asp?sid=0005218173 Just stay off the pavement and don't go too fast. For the money you would be better off finding a used tire place that has reasonable prices. 28" Buckshot Mudders measure 26" and have very strong sidewalls. I found those at a big Jeep swap meet. Everyone was looking for 33" tires and the small ones are cheap.

If you want to get sand rail performance, get a 2wd tranny and go with the mid-engine style, mounting it in the rear and make the front the same as the typical sand rail (most are beetle front beams or custom A-arm). I have been looking into using the rear torsion from a 83 or 84 wagon, and replacing the diff with the 2wd tranny. The trick will be shortening the oil pan enough to fit the engine over the torsion bar. Also, the DOJ's will need to be near the max angle, so plan on bringing spares when you play. You could use the non-torsion rear end from the later 80's cars. That would let you cut out the middle of the fat tube for engine clearance. You would need to use the coil-overs for suspension.

Thanks, I'll get the VIN and decode it. The shop has reduced the price to $1500, and he may just pay it. I still want to figure it out though.

My friend has a 90's sedan with the 2.2 liter non-turbo engine and auto tranny.The tranny just went out and the shop is quoting $5000 to replace it. They say it is not repairable. Is there a quick way to identify all the potential donor cars that would be a drop-in replacement? I think it is a 97, but will check that tonight. I have done a quick search, but if anyone can point to a good thread on the subject I would appreciate it. I spend my time on the old gen forum, and don't track what goes on with the newer stuff. We are trying to take a trip next week and I'm short on time, so any help is welcome.

Most of the guys I go to the sand with use VW engines and transaxles, with the starter on the tranny just like a soob. They took a blown tranny and used a sawzall to remove the front of it with the starter. That way you could drill holes so you can bolt in on an engine stand.

I'll take one. PM me with shipping to 98408, who to get the money order made out to, and where to mail it; and I'll send payment Thursday, assuming you still have one for my 83 GL D/R N/A wagon.

I'm going with custom bumpers. Front: Tow bar attach points 1 1/4" hitch reciever 2 bolt on tow hooks Rear: 1 1/4" hitch reciever 2 bolt on tow hooks I liked the looks of the custom bumper MudRat did recently. I have access to a tubing bender with 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" dies, and plan to fab it after elk season but before I upgrade the engine in the sand rail. I know this is a "mods planned" post, but I have enough custom fabrication under my belt to have at least a little credibility.

Get 8 studs from junkyard brake drums. Remove the drums, place them on the ground, screw lug nuts onto the studs to protect the threads, and drive them out with a big hammer. Most junkyards around here don't charge for nuts and bolts. Harvest the other 8 from your existing hubs. I used a 17/32" drill bit, but you want to start with a 1/16" pilot hole, move up to 1/4", then finish with 17/32". That will keep your hole on target. If you can get a 35/64" bit, that would be ideal. I had to widen the hole just a bit by wobbling the hub a little with the drill bit still in the hole (and the drill press still on) after the hole was complete. Wear eye and hand protection, use a drill press, and clamp down the hub. After the holes are ready, pull the studs in with an impact driver and a lug nut. You will need washers for spacers. Your original question will be answered by looking at a stud. The splined area that is pressed into the hub is a larger diameter than the threaded part the lug nut uses. If you are new the fabrication, see if you can get an experienced board member to supervise. You will probably save time, materials, and avoid injury. There is a related thread that describes the template I used to place the studs exactly where I wanted them: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=14499&highlight=template Good luck!

I bought a reverse torx socket set from Sears, about $20 for 6 or 8 bits. It included the E10 http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/search.do?BV_SessionID=@@@@0665708107.1090357751@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccdgadcmdfjdgklcehgcemgdffmdflg.0&keyword=E10+socket&displayTarget=searchresults

Replacing windows (on my 83 GL wagon, anyway) is as easy as it gets. I had to remove them to replace the door handle linkage on the two rear doors. I had never done a window before and had it out, replaced the handle, and put the window back in less than an hour. No special tools, but it would be good to harvest a few extra of the plastic connectors that hold the door panels on while you are at the junkyard (in case some break when you are removing your door panels). Bring a skinny flat blade screwdriver, and your normal socket set with extension. Remove the plastic part around the inside door handle Remove the window crank (unless it is electric, mine is) Remove the top part of the door panel, using the screwdriver. Try not to break the plasic connectors. Remove the lower door panel Mark the position of the window stop, then remove it. (small metal piece that stops the window travel) Roll the window until you can see the two bolts that hold the glass. Remove both bolts, remove the window (or in your case, whatever is left of it) Clean up the broken glass Reverse the order for installation Hope this helps

I've been looking into patents for some of my projects. 1. Once you commercially produce an item and sell one, it is too late to get a patent. 2. You can get the forms online for free for a Provisional Patent Application. It costs $80 to file it, and protects your idea for a year. You can try to sell them, and if it looks profitable, apply for a full patent at the end of the year. Otherwise it lapses. 3. A patent is not protection from copycats, it just gives you the right to sue. 4. A copycat did not steal (in a legal sense) an idea unless you have a patent or PPA. 5. If a guy patents an idea while he works for you (using your equipment or time) you have "shop rights" to use the patent without fee.

The wattage rating tells you how much power it can dissipate (turns it to heat) without damaging the resistor, so the higher the rating the better up to a point. Most engineers specify a wattage rating 1.5x to 2x higher than the peak load. A bullet-proof method of getting the resistance you want and spreading out the heat would be to use two of each as shown on the attachment. When you use the 5 watt resistors, you need to remember that they assume that you will place them where they will get good air flow over them; or you will stick them on a chunk of metal with thermal grease or thermal glue. The heat still has to get out. If you dissipate 1 watt in a 5 watt part in a vacuum, it will burn up because you did not provide a path for the heat to get out (don't laugh, NASA did it to one of my parts).

Sand in the fuel lines and in the carb is the #1 problem we encounter on the dunes. Most of the cars we bring have an extra see-through plastic fuel filter just before the carb so you can see how well the fuel is flowing without taking anything apart. For sand in the carb, we have aftermarket air filters and put women's nylons over the air filter so the filter does not get clogged right away. Some people RTV the filter in place to keep the sand from sneaking around it. To avoid the overheating problem in the future you need to upgrade your tires. I know that most older gen Subaru drivers are frugal, but you will have a lot more fun if you put a little money into a set of tires that provide better floatation on the sand. A tire that does not help the car stay on top of the sand wears out the engine because you are effectively digging a hole in front of the tire the whole time. If your tires roll on top of the sand your engine is not overworked. The most affordable way to do this is to get a set of 8" or 10" wide tires with soft side walls and run them at 3 or 4 psi. BFG All Terrains work great, a friend uses them on a 2wd car and gets around on the sand great. Most people don't want to listen when it comes to using very low tire pressure, but it is the #1 most important thing you can do to keep from getting stuck and to be nicer to your engine. The next time you go out, stop and take a picture of your car in the sand (in the soft stuff, not the hard packed wet stuff) and a picture of your tire prints. If you leave tire tracks more than 1.5" deep, you need to address tire floatation.

I had a similar problem that drove me nuts. It turned out that the lower bolt that holds the caliper on fell out (I did the work myself so have nobody to blame - doh!). During braking that would allow the lower part of the caliper to rotate out and rub the rim. Check the inside of the rim for fresh rubs. Also, if your rotor needs turning, it has a lip that may keep the caliper from rotating all the way out to the rim. In that case the brake pad would be grinding against the rotor lip. Check for wear there. If it is bearings, jack it up and you should be able to get some wobble out of the wheel. It only takes a little slop to make a lot of noise, especially if the bearings are dry or full of mud.

Check the impeller on the water pump before buying it. When I was debugging my cooling problem I changed the water pump. My old one had a stamped sheet metal impeller, while the new one had a nice cast impeller. The improvement in water flow almost was enough to fix the problem, even though it was the radiator that really was the largest problem. Stamped sheet metal impellers suck.

Any good photos? All my friends welded their Jeep diffs; is it exectly the same? Sure would like to see a write-up. I want to get my 6 lug conversion first so I can use my 26" Buckshot mudders, but a welded diff will be right after that.

I'd only be interested in parts. What is the impound fee? It may already be more that the car is worth.

So...... It sounds like I may have done the test fit of the rear axle to the tranny with the wrong end of the axle. I'll check that tonight. Hopefully the holes will line right up. When I did the test it was a half hole off. I assume that you are talking about the length lining up, not a rotation problem. Thanks for the tip Miles. GD - I'll check to see how much shorter the 5 speed is. Ideally I would want a DR 2WD, if it existed. I suppose I could use the rear output for a PTO. I like the idea of keeping the engine and tranny identical to my wagon, so spare parts can be shared and I can test out repairs by putting the engine or tranny on my car. I also like the abundance of EA81 and 4sp DR transaxles in this area.

My 83 DR GL wagon has exactly the same problem, just not as bad. Maybe once a day. I'm glad you asked the question, I just hope somebody has a good answer for us. I have a spare tranny, this might be my excuse to dig it out and harvest a part for the repair.