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Guest Message by DevFuse

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Running Brake Lines?

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6 replies to this topic

#1 MorganM


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Posted 23 September 2003 - 04:40 PM

I need to run new brake lines from the cabin to my rear drums. Right now the hardlines are cut in the cabin and pinched off right under the rear bench seat.

What are the main issues with running soft lines from the cabin directly to each corrisponding rear drum? Now I know it wont have the fancy braking action where opposite, opposing sides brake but this isnt gonna be a daily driver and I doubt I'll hit over 55 MPH :)

Also what kind of double flare tool do I need for the hardlines? Anyone know a cheap one ? Or one worth its cost?

I would really not like to run OEM lines. I thought it was very annoying that the hardlines run between the rear main crossmember and the body (which is RIGHT where BOTH sides broke!!!) I also dont wanna fumble around with bending hardlines to fit in how I want them.

Anyway suggestions would be great :)


#2 Sweet82


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Posted 23 September 2003 - 05:43 PM

Your asking several questions and bringing up several points.

I can tell you that by the time the brake lines exit the cabin and go out to the rear wheels they have already been mixed in the "Dual Diagonal Braking System". That's done up front. If you continue the line out each side to your wheels it will be the same as the factory.

I have been told flaring is obnoxious.

I decided to run pre-flared off the shelf lines to my rears.

It seems to me if you could keep the flexible lines away from sharp edges and out of harms way they would be just the same.

My .02
82 Hatch, transforming--still without rear brake lines...:temper:
01 Forester, abs is great!...:D

#3 GeneralDisorder


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Posted 23 September 2003 - 07:43 PM

Depends on what kind of flexible line you run, but no matter what I would say you will notice a much spongier feel to the brakes. The rubber will expand and contract, and you won't get nearly as much braking force with flexible lines. You could use stainless steel braided lines, but that would be WAY more expensive than hard line, and still not as good. For short runs (the shorter the better) the expansion of the rubber is acceptable, but the longer the run, the more "sponge" you will feel in the pedal.

And I'm sure tha flareing brake line is like any other job - if you have the right tool (not a cheapo one), then it becomes much easier, and probably less time consuming than you think.


#4 Qman


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Posted 23 September 2003 - 08:13 PM

First, safety is the biggest issue here not convenience. Rubber lines are for flex areas not to replace hard lines.

Second, flaring is a must on brake lines to maintain a tight air free seal. This is definitely not the place to cut corners. Your life and the lives of everyone you will come into contact with on and off the road depend on it.

Ideally, you want hard lines through the body and along the rear trailing arms. Anywhere there is a pivot point you use rubber brake lines. Not just any rubber line will work either. It needs to be rated for brake fluid and pressure.

#5 offroadsubaruguy


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Posted 23 September 2003 - 08:18 PM

why not just go all out and buy huge amounts of braided brake lines???? run that as far as you can......... just an expensive thought, thats all....

#6 MorganM


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Posted 23 September 2003 - 09:21 PM

Hmmm I didnt know the lines would flex that much. Seeing how they already run soft lines I didnt think it was much of an issue but then again they never run more then 6"s of it at a time.

Right'o Qman, I would use the proper soft line for this application. Flaring is a bit of a new one for me. I have a friend at work that's done it. Maybe he'll show me with his double flare tool and I'll practice it up first.

I dont want to cut corners but I also dont want to spend weeks on this. So it sounds like I should re-run some hardline from the cabin as far as I can before switching to softlines. Then run soft l ine to the drums.

Thanks guys.

#7 MorganM


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Posted 24 September 2003 - 10:38 AM

I took off the rear wheels and looked it over again. It appears I can just run some soft line from the cabin to the inner arm. There I can couple up to a hardline along the inner arm that goes to the hub. I wont need more then about 8"s of softline for each side. There is also places I can secure it down so it wont flex as much. I honestly dont think it will make much of a difference in "squishyness". There was already softline ran there I'm just extending it a few inches.

So I think all I need is the 2 softlines with the proper ends on them, 2 hard line ends to put on myself, a tiny pipe cutter for the hardlines, and a double flare tool.

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