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rear axle removal


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16 replies to this topic

#1 bushbasher

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Posted 10 October 2003 - 08:40 PM

I'm trying to take out my rear diff to weld it, but I have never taken out the axles before (my first soob died too quickly). Are there stubs on the diff and hub? I thought I just have to punch out the pins behind the cv cups, and pound them off of the stubs, but so far no movement. The diff is hanging by the axles right now, so there is room for the axles to slide off of the stubs. What am I doing wrong?? I want to get fast at this too so I can pull an axle for extended road driving.

#2 TomRhere

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Posted 10 October 2003 - 09:37 PM

believe that they're held in by a pin on both ends. Read of guys with welded rear diffs pulling their axles while on dry pavement. Chances are that they're just rusted on to the stubs. Alittle heat and convincing with a hammer will probally help get them off. I would recommend using anti-sieze when putting them back on. Just to be safe.......

#3 bbbs53

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Posted 10 October 2003 - 09:47 PM

Hi, you have, as Tom pointed out, appraised the situation correctly. The inner usually has enough movement to clear the diff with both pins removed. Thanks Ken. There is a stub in the drum end and a stub on the diff. It is probably in love, rust wise. A little heat and penetrating oil will help and they can be stubborn. May have to use a little hammer action, Bradd

#4 bushbasher

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Posted 10 October 2003 - 10:16 PM

I'll take another crack tomorrow. Now that I think about I might as well take the diff to the shop to get it migged, then there won't be as much metal beads from arc-welding to clean out of my diff.

As for some ideas to make axle changes faster: replace pins with bolts and nuts? quick release front diff mount?

#5 Mike W

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Posted 10 October 2003 - 11:06 PM

The rust on these things can make removal total hell. Try heat, then penetrant, more heat, more penetrant, then hammer on a block of wood, then swear and throw tools, repeat the process.
The welded diff guys just park with one rear wheel off the ground(drive front wheel up a stump or whatever) then pop the axle on or off.
The pins aren't bad once you get in the habit. I suppose shoulder bolts could work if they fit tight and were hardened, but probably just as much work. I use a custom hammer with 6" handle and a custom made punch (actually an old reamer) with a stop on it so that I don't drive the pin all the way out (pin stays in one side of the axle.) Masking tape rolled around a punch works good too.
Spatter removal from the diff is a hassle even with mig. Stuffing a damp rag down there helps.

#6 old sub freak

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Posted 11 October 2003 - 12:06 AM

what worked for me was to remave the pins and drive slowly around the block. but even that is no garente? they will come loose. just be sure to clean the threads and use anti sieze for next time good luck todd

#7 MilesFox

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Posted 11 October 2003 - 09:28 AM

i have had them where the axle will come off the hub end, stick to the diff, take it all out and swing a bug hammer, rotating the doj each strike, pounding the backside of the doj away from the diff.

if ya gotta heat them up, you can take the axle apart at the doj, get the doj off the diff, and then put the axle back together

#8 soobme

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Posted 11 October 2003 - 11:03 AM

I have used cotter pins insted of roll pins in mine for about a year with no problems! I HATE roll pins. And the cotter pins will come out much eazyer;)

#9 bushbasher

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Posted 11 October 2003 - 02:05 PM

got diff out, but still can't get axle off of outer stub. Tried hitting with hammer and rotating, but I'm worried about using heat, I don't want to cook the bearing or cv joint. Can I take apart the outer joint easily (and put it back together)?

#10 bratman2

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Posted 11 October 2003 - 02:49 PM

Bushbasher, cut the metal bands off the outside boot. Slide the boot out of the way, in the grooves that the balls ride in there is a large metal band just inside the cup. Insert a small screw driver in one of the grooves and you will be able to pop the metal clip out, then the whole joint will slide out off the cup. Balls should stay in the joint if joint is good. I must of got lucky as my axles came right off my 87 Brat with little trouble. You have removed the pin on the doj at the wheel side right. Glenn Taylor.

#11 bushbasher

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Posted 11 October 2003 - 06:04 PM

It's awesome! It's a mad wheeler now, except for the tires, and lack of lift ;) My property is really muddy right now, and the tires on there like to pack full of my loamy thick mud. Didn't get the outer joints off, didn't bother heating them up, but now I know how to get them apart. I just wanted to get my diff in and drive it. My car won't be on the road till months from now, so I have plenty of time to do it.

#12 Russ Hill

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Posted 11 October 2003 - 10:42 PM

What I ended up doing was to remove the brakes and backing plate, then drive the axle off with a long straight bar and a BFH.

#13 Campsite428

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Posted 16 October 2006 - 09:01 PM

just FYI......something i have done in the past to remove the axle pins is use the battery hold down rod...(threaded at one end and hooked at the other)...and tap it out....its just the right size...may have to straighten the rod a couple times, but its a great emergency trick......

far as the stuckness...probably just rusted in....definitely a lot of swearing needed for this job

#14 mikeshoup

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Posted 16 October 2006 - 10:08 PM

*cough* This thread is dated 2003.

#15 Twitch de la Brat

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Posted 24 May 2010 - 06:11 PM

*cough* This thread is dated 2003.


So what? :-p
Its only 2010 :eek:

Ok, I've been attempting removing the axle from the outside shaft, and I can't
get it.
I'm NOT going to disassemble the axle, but I've tried everything to break loose
the axle (minus heat, but that's soon to be used) and I can't get it.
Any other suggestions?

And obviously I searched, how else would I have come up with this thread?

Twitch

#16 Twitch de la Brat

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Posted 25 May 2010 - 12:43 PM

Never mind, I got it with 15 minutes of heat and alternating bashing with a BFH
and a steel rod.
I coated it in bearing grease before reinstalling it, to reduce the chance of
sticking and rust formation.

Thanks for the info in the thread though :)

Twitch

PS: Its just about ready to go, I've just got to finish bolting it together :banana:

#17 monstaru

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Posted 25 May 2010 - 04:13 PM

read dates......


just FYI......something i have done in the past to remove the axle pins is use the battery hold down rod...(threaded at one end and hooked at the other)...and tap it out....its just the right size...may have to straighten the rod a couple times, but its a great emergency trick......

far as the stuckness...probably just rusted in....definitely a lot of swearing needed for this job






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