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ea82 cruise control wiring diagram
Posted 09 June 2006 - 06:55 AM
Anyone have a wiring diagram for '87-'89 ea82 spfi or turbo cruise control?? Or maybe a later model Loyale would probably be the same.
Hey moderator, how can I search for terms like "cruise control" AND "wiring diagram" - search function seems to match each word individually even though I've tried various single and double quotes as well as parens to try to get it to search for the specific term I'm looking for??
Posted 10 June 2006 - 07:22 AM
Posted 14 November 2006 - 04:02 PM
If anyone has an FSM diagram of the wiring and vacuum hose routing for the cruise control system on an EA82-equipped car please post it up here. I don't need an explanation of how it all works or a "typical" cruise setup (as mentioned above; I've seen that diagram also), I need to see the actual Subaru-specific diagrams.
I should have said FSM wiring diagram. I have one "typical cruise control wiring" from a Haynes manual, but it doesn't quite match what's on the car.
I'm pulling my hair out trying to get the cruise fixed on my '94 Loyale wagon and have covered what seems to be every base. Can anyone help me out and come through with the needed manual pages?
Posted 01 December 2006 - 11:01 AM
Just to wrap this thread up, I figure I'd share my findings with the cruise control on EA82s and how I finally ended up fixing it.
Vacuum Hoses & Vacuum System
- Check all the hoses to make sure they're not cracked, rotted or disconnected somewhere. The newest EA82s are upwards of 13 years old now. These things are no spring chickens anymore! Remove, inspect and/or replace the lines as needed around the passenger's side vacuum canisters, across the firewall and down into the body on the driver's side (this is where one of my problems was).
- Check the vacuum canisters & check-valves on the passenger's side of the engine bay by the firewall. The big, round plastic ball on the passenger's side is a vacuum reserve canister. There's a check-valve in front of it and if you disconnect the line right off of this canister you should hear a rush of air sucking into it. If nothing happens either the check-valve in front of it is bad or the canister has a leak in it somewhere. Also, the white canister up by the strut tower that's roughly the size of a soup can has a check-valve built into it. You should be able to blow into one of the ports, but not the other.
- Check the actuator that's attached to the gas pedal & its accompanying vacuum line. The actuator is controlled by vacuum via the large vacuum line that runs across the length of the firewall. You should be able to remove the vacuum line where it connects into one of the vacuum canisters on the passenger's side, suck into it and it should hold vacuum. If not, check to make sure that the vacuum line isn't cracked somewhere or the diaphragm on the actuator isn't ruptured.
- Check to make sure there's continuity between the pins on the brake & clutch pedal switches when the pedals aren't depressed & no continuity when the pedals are depressed. If I remember right one is set up as mentioned previously, and the other is set up the opposite (no continuity when the pedal isn't depressed & continuity when the pedal is depressed). This was one of the fixes I had to do a few years back to get the cruise working again & my memory is a bit hazy on this point.
- Removing the panel under the steering wheel and unbolting, but not completely removing, the ECU makes getting at the switches a ton easier. Bust out the multi-meter and check continuity between the pins on the switches. If one needs to be adjusted it's a simple procedure of loosening the lock nut, turning the switch a few threads in to bring it closer to the pedal and tightening down the lock nut.
- Pull the trim piece that surrounds the gauge cluster & holds the climate control switches. With a little finaggling you should be able to remove the three switches on the far left that house the rear defrost and cruise on/off switches. The "Cruise" switch has three pins; two pins should have continuity between them when the switch is pressed and the third pin is for the light on the switch that illuminates when it's on.
- Remove the steering wheel pad to check the "Resume" and "Set/Coast" switches. IIRR, four phillips-head screws hold the pad on & it pulls up and out. The three-wire connector for the switches combines the ground for both and a seperate signal wire for each switch. Remove the connector where it plugs into the steering wheel and check continuity between the ground & signal wires as each switch is depressed. In my car I had to close the gap on the contacts of two of the terminals. The switches were getting an intermittent signal and causing the cruise to work ~20% of the time (my second problem). Also, if you're really feeling saucy you can remove the switch altogether from the steering wheel pad to check it. I went this route and checked continuity all the way back to the solder joints just to be 110% sure I was covering my bases. The hole where the switch passes through the pad looked like it was cut with a dull butter knife by a Ritalin-addled howler monkey! Granted, the hole doesn't have to be overly pretty as the switch housing is covering it anyway, but damn I could've chewed a cleaner hole than that! Just a funny little point to look for if you decide to take the switch completely out.
After checking everything out and making a few fixes here and there I buttoned up the car and took it out for a cruise. Once I hit 55 MPH I pushed the "Cruise" button and it lit up signaling the system was on; one hurdle cleared. I apprehensively pressed the "Set/Coast" button on the steering wheel, held my breath and slowly pulled my foot back from the gas pedal...and the car stayed at 55 MPH! Just thought I'd do a quick write-up on what I went through to get the cruise control back and working correctly in my car as I'm sure there are others out there wanting a little relief for the longer road trips.
Posted 01 December 2006 - 12:04 PM
Posted 01 December 2006 - 09:54 PM
All the wiring should be in the car already, you'd just have to add the components.
I'd love to have cruise control, but I don't want to spend alot on aftermarket setups and from the sounds of it I'd have to find one in a jy and pull the gauge cluster and stick it in my loyale along with the steering wheel and sounds like much more work than its worth.
Off the cuff, here's what you'd probably have to pull off of a junkyard car:
- Steering wheel switches
- "Cruise" on/off switch on left side of gauge cluster
- Vacuum diaphragm on gas pedal
- Brake & clutch switches
- Vacuum canisters & check valve
Posted 02 December 2006 - 04:16 PM
Posted 03 December 2006 - 01:05 PM
I have no idea how different the cruise control systems are across the different years of wagons, hatches, XTs, etc. I can't imagine they'd be all that dissimilar though. The dash & steering wheel switches may vary between the years but the general concept should be the same for the most part.
Nice wright up! gives me motovation to go atack mine. How different is it in the 86 version of the gl10 wagon? thanks
Posted 03 December 2006 - 01:09 PM
Posted 04 December 2006 - 09:12 AM
what about the ones that have cruise on the turn signal stalk? Any common problems related to the stalk? i wouldnt mind working cruise...
Haven't seen a cruise setup like that in a Subie yet. I'm assuming it's similar to many of the late '80s to early '90s GMs where the main on/off switch and the set/resume/accel switches are integrated into a stalk coming off of the steering column.
If that's the case, there's got to be a way to remove it and check continuity across the different pins on the switches. Shouldn't be too Earth-shattering to get it out of there, just have to do a little detective work.
Outside of that, I've got to imagine that the rest of the system should be similar to what I described above.
Posted 05 December 2006 - 12:20 AM
Posted 05 December 2006 - 10:49 AM
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