slideshow86

As most of the real wheelers on here, I am on NW-wheeler.com and there are a lot of local wheeling posted over there. Thanks for the compliments! Her new owner likes to go wheeling too, I just can't seem t get him on the forum....

The new owner of my old subaru went to play in the snow and go wheeling a little last weekend. The group that was with us didnt think it would make it.. Random pix

Sorry your having troubles. If you were looking at the front of the car at the drivers side strut this is how the spacer would be installed. It will be pointing out at the top and in at the bottom.

Very sorry, I had computer issues and lost everything. All I could find was an email with this information. I have the attached pictures I can send also if needed ( I need your email address). I also made a few different versions of my kits. These instructions are for my very first type kit. Call it model #001 (I dont konw what type you have but rear strut assembly spacer will be different.) I hope this helps INSTRUCTIONS Ok so most of you are probably going to be installing this yourself ( or atleast I hope so). So im going to give you instructions for in your driveway on jack stands. Although the pictures that are included in your kit have pictures. There not in the act of installing, they are what a completed product looks like for reference. Before you begin, lay out all your bolts with lockwashers and/or lock washers. Some are already equiped w/ a nut. These are differents then each other an need not try and mix up your nuts. Also go down to your local parts house and "rent" a spring compressor. They really only hold onto $20 as deposit untill you return the tool. That is if you dont own one. You can also get them really cheap from Sears. -We will begin with the rear- 1. Jack up your car from the diff. Place jack stands under the body. Make sure your car is high enough off the ground for clearance once your XX amount higher. 2. Remove wheels. 3. Place spring compressor on either rear spring and compress it. Take enough slack off that when you remove the bottom bolt holding the strut assembly, it doesnt try to extend farther. You can also now put in your rear strut assembly spacer. 4. Place O.E.M. bolt from strut back in the same location. Fit strut in new home and place the 7/16x3in bolt, washers, lockwasher and nut in place of O.E.M. bolt, tighten. 5. Note the tab on rear strut spacer. Drill 1/4in hole threw the hole in tab and fit a 1/4in bolt, lockwasher and nut, tighten. -see attached picture #1 6. Relieve spring compressor, move on to the other side and repeat steps 3-5 7. Place Jack under the differencial, jack it up just enough to hold it in place ( do not lift the car). Note the bar in the rear that holds the diff assembly up. Remove the 2 bolts on each side ( 4 total ) attaching it to the body. 8. Move up to the 4 bolts that hold up the diff. Remove the 4 nuts and the 1 bolt holding the diff hanger at the top. Lower the diff enough to get this diff hanger out. 9. Grind off the welds on diff hanger bracket to remove the 4 studs. 10. Move back to vehicle and push four 1/2x7/14in bolts and washers in the diff, from the bottom up. Place the spacers between diff hanger and diff. Fit with washer and lock nut. These are locking nuts. They wont back out. They are hard to turn but are the only thing that will not fail due to extensive heat. Hammer them as tight as you can. 11. Fit the top bolt that holds the diff hanger and move to the bolts you removed in step 7. Fit the 5 1/2x3in blocks and m10x4 1/4in bolts, washers, lock washer and nut. Tighten. 12. Move to other side and repeat. 13. Remove both bolts holding the carier bearing (center of driveline) Fit both 3in spacers, m10x4 1/4in bolts, washers, lock washers and nuts, Tighten. -see attached picture #2 and #3 14. Put the wheels back on, lower car and move to the front. Note the height of the rear of your car! -On to the front- 1. Jack up car and place jack stands under body. Do not block any engine or transmission braces. All the blocks are fitted first and tightened at the end. 2. Remove wheels 3. Remove steering knuckle, remove the upper stabalizer bar from the firewall( its the small round rod that has bushings on each end and goes from the engine to the firewall) Check clearances of any wiring and radiator hose. Note. I didnt have any issues, zero, didnt extend anything. BUT, I have an after market radiator, so my lower hose was already lower and I already had a different lower hose. Upper hose was extended w/ a temperature sensor addaptor (pretty much you cut your upper hose and put an aluminum piece in the middle that has a hole in it for a temp sensor). 4. Things that you should check the length of and probably extend. A. Ground that goes from chassis to block, right by the battery B. Ground that goes from chssis to block, right under the spare tire. C. You may or may not have to "Bend" your shift lever rod for 4wd to clear your interior plastic due to its new positioning. You will know if you cant shift down far enough to get into 2wd. You can figure this out once the lift is complete. D. Upper and lower rad hoses. Other than that I didnt notice anything. 5. Place jack under engine crossmember but dont lift vehicle. Working one side at a time. Remove the two bolts holding the engine crossmember to frame. Remove the phillips screw holding the studs and bracket to the frame from the top. Grind off the welds holding the studs to bracket. 6. Move to the other side and loosen the eng crossmember bolts to the end of its threads. This will give you some working room. Moving back to the side you worked on in step 5, Lower the jack 3 inches. this will give you clearance for the lift block, If it doesnt you need to loosen your transmission crossmember bolts a bit. Install the 7x3in blocks and fit the m12x7 7/8 bolts in the bracket and drop back in the frame. Place a dab of locktite to the new bolts, fit the flange nut and "finger tight only" -see attached picture #4 and #5 7. Move to the other side and repeat. 8. Remove exhaust hanger from useless crossmember, remove and discard. 8. Place jack under the transmission crossmember. Remove the 3 bolts on each side (6 total) holding the crossmember bracket to frame. Lower jack enough to fit the larger angled blocks the only way they fit (see attached picture #6 and #7). Fit the m12x5 1/4in bolts,washers and lockwashers in the ones with bushings. Fit the m12x4in bolts, washers and lock washers in the other two. Finger tight only 9. Place the smaller angled blocks between the lower rear two transmission crossmember to frame. Fit the last two m12x4in bolts, washers and lock washers and finger tigten. -see attached picture #8 and #9 10. Starting from the front working back tighten all the bolts with a wratchet, not an impact gun. Take special care to have a few threads started before putting a wrench to it. These arent nuts you want to strip out. 11. Lower your driveshaft carrier bearing. Fit the round spacers and torque. 12. Fit steering knuckle and move on to the front spring spacers. -Front spring spacers- 1. Start by removing both pins holding the D.O.J. to the output shafts. Remove both bolts that hold the control arms to the engine crossmember and front sway bar to control arm bolts while your under there. 2. Turn the wheel and pull clip holding the brakeline to strut. Take a cut-off wheel and cut the tab that the brakeline goes through. This way you can just bend the tab and slide out the brakeline and not have to re-bleed the brakes. 3. Remove the bolt holding the locking tab on the bottom of strut. Remove the main lower bolt holding the strut. Using a punch, tap down on the hub assembly. You may have to pry the control arm away from the crossmember, but by removing the d.o.j. pins alone gives you a few extra inches. 4.Once the bottom is out you can remove the 3 nuts holding the strut in at the top. With the strut out. fit the spacer at the top. Take three 1/4in bolts, lock washers and six nuts. Start at the top with the hardest to reach bolt first. Then the outer two. Re-assemble in reverse order 5. Repeat for other side. You will probably need an alignment. RE-TORQUE IN ONE WEEK!!! Take pictures and send them to me. Enjoy. Thanks again Jess

Thanks for saying it was nicely put together. It was a very tough choice for me and I am pretty sure I made the right call. I owned the wagon for 4 years and enjoyed it the whole time. I dont think it has really set in yet ( I havent seen it drive past me yet :-\ ). I just need a truck and any which way you flip it, I got a killer deal. I know the toy needs some work but it will be fun learning somthing new. Tomorrows plans -Clutch, PP, pilot brg, throw out brg -Rear main -Trans flush fill -oil and filter -clean air filter -rewire reverse lights -rewire electric fan Should be fun

The weirdest thing happend yesterday. A friend of mine is going on a 5 day camping trip in a week. His truck recently took a crap and He needed to take his work van. I was over at his house putting a hitch, wiring and brake control one of his work vans. (This is where it gets interesting) One of my friends brothers is over there and he is all about my white wagon. He asked to really over look it and see how it was lifted and what was done to it. I told him I didnt mind. While I was working I noticed him and the guy he brought over looking it over and chatting about it. He asked what I would take for it. I told him I could never get what I wanted out of it. He was like would you take my truck? I was like are you serious? He has quite a few lifted toyota trucks and recently picked up a 93 IFS "road queen" that he had nothing into and held zero interest. AND for some reason he was all about owning my wagon. After I offered a test drive, told him it stopped at 7 psi the way it sits and he was off. Today we traded titles straight across. Here is what I got.. 93 Toyota pickup w/ 166k Headgasket went and a new eng was installed at 138k -Reciepts for fresh eng, cam, and install 30k ago -Reciepts for new gears up front and rear making the speedo work perfect with 33's -Recipets for 6" lift and install -For some reason pretty nice bilstien rear shocks -A very clean interior (buckets here I come) -A title transfered today (Total cost out of pocket today was just over $100) Oh and about....A 2k come up I just dont know what to think about not owning my wagon..... Its truly disheartining.

Calling all with webers. How is your pcv system set up.... Is my "causing damage"?

No I cant find it.. GD could you dig it up please... I remember it was from 04... Also, I cant find any ea71's. Is there any way we can find a way to fix this with aftermarket parts?

I just really wanted to see what a wagon would go for. I dont sell my things, I just break it and hang it some where as expensive art. I actually got an offer of $3000 last week and turned it down. Then I started thinkin about turning it in toward the "cash for clunkers" thing but want to stick with buying a house instead. I just love my car too much :-\

I see where your coming from if you have like one car. But the first 2 years I put 80k on it when I was primarily driving it every day. Now I have 3 bikes and 4 cars. I put about 10-15k on each a year. Plus keep really good records of everything. I dont like to sell anything I own, It was just a question.

IMO, I think I would get about $500- $1000 less on the forum but you never know. Im worried 2k is about all she is worth, crappy because all the parts cost more than 2k. But if thats the case. Its worth more to me to keep it for ever.

Ok so I have been wondering what my car is worth. I dont want to sell it because its always just been soo good to me I just want somthing new.. 1986 Gl-10 Wagon All power All works. -214k on body. Inside is very very nice!! No tears or cuts -I bought it at 105k 4 years ago. -1st eng went 2 years ago at around 180k ( you can try to make out the odo in the video- *the blow off valve was an experimental thing*)-2nd Eng I took my time with, ea82t was purchased from eng importer stamped with compression test and 30k odo on a tag on it. I installed a JDM oem gasket "kit" resealing the whole eng, oil pump, flawless oem turbo, resurfaced flywheel, exedy clutch ect. -Transmission is 3.9 D/r 5sp pulled from 150k donor car with matching LSD(wrecked not head gasked. ) -Dual core radiator, with dual 12" electric fans. One is switched (and keyed) and one is set on 205 deg theremo senser. -Custom 2.5" mandrel bent down tube to full custom very free flowing 2" (I think) full exhaust with no cat ATM, I dont have to pass emissions to a highflow muffler. -Brakes are gone through every year and always in flawless working order. -Perfectly working hill holder -My custom 5"ish lift -6lug conversion, the ones I used to offer, work is done on a shop and is really top quality! -5 total-15" Zero offset aluminum wheels with 28" A/T tires was like $700ish -Custom front and rear bumpers -Pinned end links for front sway bar. on and off in mins -Full length roof rack with custom low mounts and custom tire rack. (rack can come on and off in about 15 mins) -5% window tint all around -All worn bushings, tie-rods, ball joints, front and rear wheel bearings are new. -Custom 1 1/4 hitch way over built and rated to 3500 tow weight and 500 toung weight made from my shop from my boss. I have towed once or twice and it is NOT good to tow, I use it for bike rack ( bike rack not for sale) Inside the car -Un cracked flawless dash -Un molested flawless interior -No cuts or tears, both seats are very nice (although stock) -2 guages on pillar, Boost and water temp -Turbo timer (I put it in when I bought it, im impatient and running on cool down is a pet peve of mine) -alpine head unit -all new alpine speakers. -600w amp and 10" memphis with custom (removable) box I have alot of time, effort, money and love into this car. It IS a turn key car. Get in it and turn the key and it will drive you where you need to go. She is very freeway friendly and will travel 80 mph (via gps) on flats and 65-70 uphill/ mountain areas. Oh and did I mention no rust. I have a stack of reciepts for EVERYTHING ive done along the way that comes with the car Here are just 2 pix for now. Interior needs a cleaning before pictures.

might be a bit of oil on that #2 cylinder - valve stem seals perhaps. But nothing to worry about really. I was "><" this close to changing them out, I was just in a hurry and figured a little smoking on start up wouldnt hurt too much for now. I just wanted to know if I could stand the power output from ea81 as I just cant afford an ej swap right now. The carb looks fine - that boss on the back is for a second accelerator pump - they are not equipped with them in progressive linkage format - that is just a casting artifact that isn't used on your's.Sweet, Thats what I thought, I noticed there are alot of different things/set ups for these carbs for MANY different applications, I just want to make sure as alot of the people I ask for help always say " well your missing somthing there, you should get that fixed first" You need to change the PCV a bit - the line between the PCV valve/drivers side valve cover and the T going into the filter needs to be reduced to 1/4" ID - that is a vacuum breaker line that should only be large enough to prevent the PCV valve from sucking oil out of the drivers side valve cover but not large enough to interrupt the directional flow through the crankcase. With all the lines the same size like that you won't get any flow through the crankcase.I know I know, I just found your post about using the ea71 tapered "cone" filter or somthing and the cool 5/8"x5/8"x1/4" T that they use to make it soo clean. I just dont konw where to get it yet.... I was also thining of taking a smaller 3/8th hose or even 1/4 in if it fits and slidding it INSIDE the 5/8th hose going to the drivers side valve cover. Do you think it would change the "area" inside the tube to restrict the airflow enough? Just a though for now? Otherwise I don't see many issues. You have the HH disconnected so you should add a clutch fork return spring to keep from wearing out the TO bearing..... Thanks I didnt think of that I have located some of my vibrations too.... When I squeeze the 4wd linkage and drive faster than 3k rpm's, it feels like alot of the vibes dont happen. If i dont hold it, it gets bad chassis vibrations? And there's a chance you could damage the ignitor in the disty with that hot MSD coil. It's not neccesary and the stock coil's are amazingly reliable. You gain nothing but the potential for failure using that coil. Thanks for the heads up, I have a lifetime warranty on my dizzy on my other car and it could use the MSD more than the brat. I just wanted to replace things things that would origionally have a symptom of " running on 3 cyls, as origionally it was running on 3. Now I know its not an issue, I can swap it out for the stock one. Thanks soo much for your help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

This is the EXACT same issue I am having. Before I swapped the jetting around (my jetting was assembled wrong) Its not hard to start, just doesnt like to idle cold. I have to reset the idle, then once warm, it idles high again.

Very good question!! Even better answer! I REALLY didnt want overheating issues with my GL-10 so when I first got it I added a dual core, twin push fans, one constantly running and one that triggers at 205 deg F and a new waterpump. 100k later and I havent overheated once. I have been in many situations when I though I would have but the 2nd fan is really a nice touch, I dont even have to pay attn to a temp and flip a switch! But Im glad you asked as I may free up a little space and add a legacy radiator when I drop in an EJ

I took some pictures today Please if you see anything wrong in any of the pictures point it out. I really dont have anything to reference it to.. This is the beast in question Here is carb #2 (the one that looks like a pos) Now on the back side of the carb is this thing. It was a year ago when I rebuilt the clean/nice looking carb I had and I dont remember this looking soo much like it was missing somthing? It just doenst look right.... Here are the sparkplugs after I swapped the jetting around Plug #1 Plug #2 Plug #3 Plug #4 Heres my new ghetto exhaust. Only good thing about it is it is not the lowest point AND it fixed A LOT of my issues.

-maybe the choke is closing when it heats up? Unsure, Havent pulled the filter after a test run. Most times by that point Im scratching my head.... -maybe the choke wire is not hooked up. Yes it is -voltage is going to choke?14v -and its actually opening the choke not closing it when your car warms up? It is working like it should. Opens and closes when it needs to.

Well I guess I should get my friggin ducks in line before I try to start knocking them down. When I first started, my fuel was pretty much trickling in the (eng bay) fuel filter, I always suspected fuel delivery was my issue. After alot of test runs and swapping the jetting around was when I pulled the plugs for the first time. They were just on the white side of the tan that would be desired. Which tells me that it was lean... I swapped the jetting around and made a bunch of test runs. But was still having the hesitation issue. It wasnt untill I -I refitted the exhaust and added a cheap muffler. -I re-timed it to 8 btdc -I backed off the mixture screw from 2x turns out to 1.5 turns out. When she started to actually move when I push on the throttle it actually seems acceptable now. I cant believe it was that bad with no muffler? Whoda thunk it? I will pull the plugs and clean them up and take a 30 min drive or so and check the plugs again. At that point ill take a picture and post them.... Hopefully by then ill have my friends wideband. Also- glancing up at my (eng bay) fuel filter, I notice it is topped off full. Since buying the car and all the test runs over a year and I have never seen it topped off full. So hopefully that solved some lean issues? I just did another back yard alignment so Ill grab the gps (for more accurate speed reading) and take another test run.

I guess its time to do a compression test. I know the -Cap, rotor, plugs and wires are new -The carb is clean and the Jets are in the correct order. -Fuel filters are new -Heads and valves were just checked -Car idles like a champ and runs like a dog... I need to -Buy a fuel pressure guage -Buy a compression tester -Borrow my friends wideband -Start all over again.. Any suggestions? This game sucks......

I dont know much about carbs. When doing some research on weber conversions alot of people recomend advancing your timing a bit. An ea81 calls for 8 btdc @ 700 rpm's I am running, -86 Ea81 Hydro lifter eng -Some half assed piece together header from the PO thats 1.75" to the cat, 2" from the cat back to high flow muffler -No egr system ( all have block off plates) -All emissions stuff is gone (only thing pulling vacuum is dizzy and heater stuff) -Msd coil -Vac advance works on dizzy -32/36 dgev with " Baseline " jetting for Ea81 -Idle screw is 1 turn in -Mixture screw is either 1.5 or 2 turns out. (doesnt make much difference) -ngk plugs with .050 gap. -92 octane LET ME START WITH, this is compiled from what I have found others running with success. You may have read my thread- http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=102446 Well I started at 8 btdc and slowly made my way up to 14 btdc. It seems almost "road worthy" at 14 btdc but am I hurting anything? I dont hear any pinging ( headed down to pick her up after having her new exhaust fitted in 15 mins so it will be much quieter and I may hear somthing then). What are you running? Whats safe? *NOTES* -at 8 btdc it back fires alot on decel and accelerates VERRRRY slowly, Not road worthy slow.... - At 10 btdc, back fires alot still - At 12 btdc, back fires less - At 14 btdc it doesnt backfire any more (this was also with OUT RUNNING a muffler?)

2 runs of 65mph recorded via GPS. I dont mind if it wont go faster than 65 as long as it will do a solid 65 all the time. My issue now is alot of vibrations coming from transmission/ center of car. It vibrates without the car moving, so its mount or exhaust related, its just really hard to troubleshoot. Anyone have this issue?

UPDATE- I found a crack in the "new" hoses I had installed causing a vac leak. It now runs a LOT better but still just doesnt seem right. I was able to hit 65 today but the vibes in 3rd are not fun. I crawled under there and shook the driveshaft. The trans mounts are soo bad that the driveshaft, transmission and complete exhaust moves around way too much. I welded in plates and made the trans mounts solid so I can atleast make the 30 mile drive to my shop. After a test drive the vibrations are still there but much more under control and not as "intense". The vibrations seem to be coming from the entire exhaust system, when it gets really loud, it vibrates really bad. At a dead stop, I reved it over 3k rmps and I can feel the same vibrations? WTF? Engin mounts dont seem too bad but there are only a few exhaust hangers. Hopefully tomorow ill have a custom exhaust. EDIT- It doesnt feel like a DOJ, The DOJ's up front on the GL-10 are/ feel much worse.

UPDATE- Tonight I found a crack in my "new vac line cap" I had installed so I changed it and readjusted the timing and it runs alot better now. I remember a trick of spraying the possible leak areas with somthing and if it either bumps up or boggs it has a leak. Dont remember what it was though. After a test run it was able to get right up to 65mph! BUT I have a really bad vibration in 3rd when hard on the throttle. It throws alot of vibes through the shifter. Im thinking u-joints and/or trans mounts. It now runs well enough to throw tabs and insurance on it and give it another try.

History- This brat has never seen the road since I have owned it, I dont have anything to compare it to/ dont konw anyone with an ea81 powered machine for a baseline of "good runing car". Here is a list of current problems. -Very bad vibrations under load in 3rd gear. BUT I get the same vibrations when the car is stopped and I rev it to 3k+ rmps's I noticed the trans mounts were shot. I welded them solid just like in the Turbo Wagon. Vibrations changed. But I am suspecting the exhaust system. (welded mounts are my temp low cost fix for the time being, I need to spend my $ wisely) -The Fuel guages works when I am on throttle. If I am at idle, it reads Zero petrol and when Topped off never read more than 1/2 tank. -It will idle solid, it runs smoothe at most throttle application, It just seems flat at anything over 1/2 throttle soley lack of HP or incorrect main jet size? What are you guys running for a main on a weber 32/36 dgv? -Temp guage doesnt work all the time OR the car keeps pretty darn cool? I know its not above 195 because the electric fan doesnt kick on. It just doesnt seem like the guage is accurate to the actual temp. -To get to 65mph, I have to wrap the hell out of 3rd and it takes 3/4 throttle to sustain 65 in 4th. Is that right? Thats all I can think of for now.

It uses air passing over the car to help keep the rear window clear. I have one on my wagon and didnt really notice that it worked till I put a roof rack on there and blocked the air flow.