slideshow86

I was wondering this awhile back, I called a Subaru specialist in the area, He has been doing only subarus for like 25 years in my area. He said I could drive it as fast as my car could go in 4wd. I have the same car that is being talked about. Also. off topic but the reason I run in 4wd is (i have 2 brand new axles, Brand new wheel brgs, the 6 lug conversion was done at a machine shop, 2in body lift, and 27" tires), When In 2wd and on throttle in 1st-3rd I get a HEAVY vibration? Feels like stress on doj? It comes and goes w/ different mods when in 2wd. I started running it in 4wd when driving and if I have to turn tightly or manouver around I put it in 2wd. Any Ideas?

Ya I saw the carnage today When I was selling him my spare wheels Hes coming down to pick up the goodies to fix it in a week or so. I was just wondering how that thing tracks going down the road........

As far as the idea goes....When I got my subaru (ea82t wagon) I was never happy w/ my wheel/ tire set up. Being new to the subaru world I didnt know what they had for aftermarket support or lack there of. I found a thread somewhere about a year ago giving me instruction on this mod. Ive known a cnc programer for a little while now and dropped off a set of hubs to make measurements and make a jig to hold it. Took about a week to get back (as he did it on his spare time) but they were perfect! Each hole is exactly where it needs to be and he counter sunk the holes so the head would sit flat against the hub. Popped in new studs and whalla! Time to buy some wheels. Well I went w/ toyota wheels being they where larger on the center diameter. Went back to my friend and had him make me up some "hub centric" rings for all the hubs. They are the same I.D. as the O.D. of the "oem hub centric nubs" on the hubs and the same O.D as the I.D. of the wheel. With a small lip on the part that rides against the flat surface of the hub. So when the wheel is on it holds or press fits the hub centric ring in place. Actually they were snug and I had to lightly tap them over the nubs so regardless there is no way for them to fall off. In short I drove the car w/ and w/o the hub centric rings. You can alighn the wheel w/o them but once you go offroad and hit bumps hard you can get them slightly out. I lightly wheel it and drive it everyday to work and every winter weekend to the mountain, so it MUST be road worthy! With the hub centric rings, I can hit bumps hard enough to bring me out of my seat and slam my head into the roof and hurt myself :cool: and when I get back on the highway its back up to 70mph w/ zero vibrations, coming from the wheels that is, the cv joints are another story (there not bad either, just standard NVH) I was pretty leary of not having the extra holes welded, due to strength, but they have been installed for a year or more now and have gone like 35k on them over 2 eng's, many cv joints, many offroad journeys, harsh hill climbs, harsh bumpy roads, trashed a wheel and back on the freeway to commute every day to work! With no cracks or signs of stress what so ever. It can be safe if done correctly. If anyone wants pictures I can put some up. Im new here..... I dont mean to thread jack but if anyone is interested in this "off road" only conversion w/ hub centric rings let me know. I remember shooting the idea to him when he was dropping them off and if he had 5 or so to do, He would do them for $100 a pop. If he had to do them one at a time, the price would most likely go up a little as he would have to re-enter the program and set up the jig. And I dont want to bother him w/ a bunch of individual items. I just like to drop off a box. He gets it all done it one setting, which also keeps our cost down. Im unsure of the price for the hub centric rings. I know he used a really really hard aluminum. So depending on the cost of materials, the time on a lathe isnt too extensive. Let me know and I will get some solid quotes. BUT there will be a core charge if you dont send in your hubs. I have a few sets laying around and will be able to ship out the hubs as soon as the cores and payment both arive. Let me know Jess

I come from the land of drifing. I drive an 86 toyota corolla gts aswell as my gl10. This is what we do. You do need teflon lined (and correct weight load) hymejoints. Im just not sure how much stress it could handle. Just wanted to throw this idea out there http://www.battleversion.com/ On the top right theres an AE86 product page, click on that, On the next page, on the top left is the "weld on kit for lower control arm" But like I said I dont know how much load it will handle. I know it does wonders with almost all converted rubber bushings to hymejoints, in the drift car. As if the ride in the roo wasnt already stiff lol.

you know righty tighty lefty loosy? I really agree with the whole dropping of the coil wire and giving ignition a bump works every time. or if you have no ac just drop the rad and hit it with a 3/4 impact. Ive done both.

sorry im new to this whats the rotor and caliper swap out of for the conversion? I have an 86 gl10. thanks

ok ok finaly found what the color plugs do. After doing the d test i have a code 22 pressure or vacume switches-fixed valve, 31 speed sensor or circuit and 24 wide open throttle switches-fixed valve. ok what exactly am i looking for. where is the pressure of vacume switches located, wheres the speed sensor and is the wide open throttle switch a part of the tps?........ as i didnt make my deadline, I am now screwed. I dont want to chance driving it to work. oh no!

How do I do the d check sounds like thats a dealer thing. I have 4 plugs all the same style just under the ecu. 2 clear and 2 green. dont know whats read memory or what. thanks maybe im overthinking this. also i dont believe my checkeng light works. can i use a test light or other light in its place? dont have time to wait for one. thanks. Jess.

OHHH NOOOO my cars done the same thing its an 86 gl10. It all started coming back from the mtn. I use it to drive to and from work and to go snowboarding. It all started when I was coasting down the mtn in gear, when i would go to re apply throttle there would be nothing. No boost no rpm gain nothing but the sound of exhaust sounds really weird but the car wouldnt die. I would push in the clutch and rev it and it would rev fine.It would only do it 1 time per trip. After a few trips doing this getting the revs up was difficult. No symptoms what so ever. First i was thinking boost leak or vacume leak. (fyI I dont know anything about these cars, I bought this car drove it a year and swapped a jdm ea82t in like 6 months ago.Ran fine till now, Ive Checked everything, the coolant temp sensor is on order and about a week out. Unplugged it and its very clean. How do i test this sensor? Everything else seems at par) Today I was on the way home and It did it really bad I had to pull over off the freeway, Just as i got off the road she cought revs and back on the road, very weird. I finaly had a passanger in the back (i have a bad nose, not too much smell) and he said he smelled fuel. He thought it was coming from the exhaust but I coulnt smell it. It did it 5 times on the way home. more than ever I just really wanted to make it. In the last mile it cut out again but i coulndt get the revs back. I made it home barely on the throttle at like 1500 rpms.With the clutch in she wont die. I just cant apply throttle. It will start first try every time idle fine, no tick. well who am i kidding a little tick but nothing u can even hear with the hood closed. the only code i throw is a 12 which isnt related. I think its lack of fuel. I just pulled the plugs and they show signs of running a lil lean. I dont thing there too bad to make the car not run. All plugs are exactly the same in wear. I was also leaning to fuel just as i found this post. How do i test the fuel pump/sending unit, or what ever i need to check. How do i check the injectors? Isnt this by an ohm reading? Anything else to check. Some one said somthing about somthing i dont dont know what its called or located. Kinda hard for me to check it. lol. Is it cheaper to take out the injectors and have them cleaned or replace them? How many years use the same fuel pump? or use swapable fuel systems. I have an 87 turbo wagon parts car. Can i use any fuel related parts? Soo many parts just what i need seems to not be swapable. Im sooo confused about this. first time it did it I did cap rotor wires and plugs. second time i did fuel filter and a few vacume lines, third time i did it I bought a tech works down tube, gas milage seemed ok at like 300 a tank give or take 30 miles due to driving style, is this normal? Would a fuel pressure regulator be worth looking into. Any help plz its 1:40am sunday morning and monday is just aroung the corner and i gota go to work. ahhhh, Im in olympia washington if any one close has parts i may need and any help is soo greatly appreciated

How much total costs for loyale ej swap. Total costs. Already own the car and do all labor your self. Jess

well i know this post was a long time ago but no one here really answears this question for my aplication. Its got adjustable suspension on an 86 gl10 wagon. Ive got 27x8.50r14 Cooper LT 6ply. Actual od is 26.5. Ive read a few posts about raising the roo with the adjustable sus. Every one says that it takes your camber way outa spec. I have a friend who works at les schwab and we threw it on the alignment rack and cranked it all the way up. When you align a car you have tolerances. Maxed out is still in tolerance on my car. Dont know about others. I have no lift and all and I didnt have to trim in the rear. For the fronts I had to cut the fender at the stock flare line. About 3 inch. Pounded in a little on the firewall side( there are a few ribs and things i didnt want the tire to hit). NOTHING MAJOR. Oh btw I had a friend who is a cnc programer and he did all my hubs to 6 lug. At first I had 15x8 0offset but I coulndt get a tire for on/ offroad in an od under 27.6/26.7 with a tread i liked. So I moved to a 14x7 -6 offset. Works great with no rub on the street. Im going to go out this weekend. so we will see what ive gota cut next. Pix are available. Jess

i found a discontinued tire from toyo at les schwab. they had been sitting in the back for like 4 years. Very agressive. All was good till i ruined 1 and needed to replace it. Lucky theres 15 hiding somwhere and they got 1 to me. They ordered 3 extra for my just for the hell of it. I like them but im doing the 6lug conversion. Already have the 15's just having trouble with tires that will fit. Now ill have a set of almost bran new tires and stock and 13 enkis just chillin.

cotter pin???

I just did the same thing...... just it was a 6ft wide 10" deep pot hole. totaly unavoidable. What side is it again? sorry Im pretty sure i have what you need on my parts car. My report. I hit a pot hole at 35 trashing 2 of 4 13" enkis. Pushing in the strut rod back, bending (im still not sure what) the frame some where. Killed the lower ball joint and throwing the alighnment all outa wack. Took it to schwab and got to b/s with the guy while he attempted to align it. -You didnt really give much info about what is actually messed up and/or how far outa spec/alignment in actually is.- My camber was within spec on all 4, my toe was fine on all but pass front which was out by about .2 or .3 pos my caster was fine on all 4 but pass front which was out by .9 (actual measurement .6) The problem with this car is caster isnt adjustable. Asuming my strut rod was bent I pulled them off both parts car and my car. Both measured the same. Knowing I need to come forward with the control arm by .9 a degree. I shim right between the fixed part ON THE STRUT ROD and bushing. I shimmed it with about ( I havent measured it yet) just under 1/4" washer. When i took it in for an alignment today I changed the caster ( and just to save money took up the .2/.3deg of pos toe on pass side). from .6 to 1.1 the desired caster is 1.5. So in conclusion. I have a few options just not sure what to do. I can A, continue to shim. B, make new bushings that compensate for the .9 degree. Or C, make adjustable strut rods. But 1 thing, the car is very drivable and tolerable with everthing in alighnment except the caster being out by.4. The torque steer (due to 2wd push button 4wd) is noticably greater than perfect and pulls to the right on a crowned road at 65+. ANY BASES NOT COVERD OR TIPS TO HELP MY DRAMA!!! Thanks Jess

Nice wright up! gives me motovation to go atack mine. How different is it in the 86 version of the gl10 wagon? thanks

same problem same car. exactly! just face it we can all buy new heater cores togeather. I hate putting them in and since I did 3 all my frends are like man lets call jess hes goood. grrrrrrrrr and I have to do one more. Granted ive never done one on a roo.... any pointers or any thing wierd, so I dont break anything??? thanks Jess

sorry spun rod brg lol

Isnt your cheapest bet just getting a used turbo and fixing the problem? if so i have 1. just threw a rod brg yesterday. Ordering the new 1 tomorrow.