Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!
|Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.
We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!
Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!
Anyway to R&R idler pulleys ?
Posted 10 December 2006 - 11:56 PM
Posted 11 December 2006 - 12:21 AM
If you are very careful you can remove the seals, clean out the old grease and re-pack them and then replace the seals. I know it can be done, but the last timing belt job I did, I just replaced them with new. Somehow, I didn't trust the re-packing thing.
Im doing a tbelt job on a 92 legacy 2.2L manual awd and was wondering if the bearings wear repackable on the idlers ?
Posted 11 December 2006 - 12:23 AM
Posted 11 December 2006 - 10:33 AM
the cheapest alternative is to repack the bearings, which i have documented here: http://www.ultimates...ead.php?t=50430
i would not do this on an inteference engine so i typically don't post this link in the newer generation thread. the interference engines are newer and worth new stuff anyway.
as for not being any benefit to this, that couldn't be further from the truth . if you've done the process i've demonstrated above, the bearings feel brand new after you're done. i'm no bearing expert but with greasing at every t-belt change i feel the bearings will last the life of the vehicle. they loose grease and the grease gets old/dirty. regreasing helps tremendously. now...that it's done properly and doesn't all blow out or bust the seal...this is all assuming it's done right of course. i have never attempted to remove the seals as edrach posted, didn't know that was possible, from the disassembly that i've done of the pulleys i wouldn't attempt any more than you have to. they are robust and well built, just give them fresh grease and move on.
Posted 11 December 2006 - 11:11 AM
i have never attempted to remove the seals as edrach posted, didn't know that was possible, from the disassembly that i've done of the pulleys i wouldn't attempt any more than you have to. they are robust and well built, just give them fresh grease and move on.
It's easier to remove the seal -- I found that using a needle would tear the inner sealing lip and allow more grease to leak out. You can remove the seal entirely by prying lightly and evenly around the edge of the outside circumference of the seal with a small standard screwdriver -- the inside rubber lip is left intact. Be careful not to bend seal in the process as it is a very thin rubber coated metal disc. You can use your hand to to reinstall the seal or an appropriate socket -- then with rubber gloves on, use your thubmnail to work the inside lip of the seal around the fulcrum of the idler pulley.
I agree that these pulleys fail only when they run out of grease so this is a worthwhile thing to do.
Posted 11 December 2006 - 11:19 AM
Yep, been there done that, have grease spray to prove it.
It's easier to remove the seal -- I found that using a needle would tear the inner sealing lip and allow more grease to leak out. .
If the bearings already loose, greasing it won't help much.
Posted 11 December 2006 - 11:49 AM
can you post pictures, i didn't see an easy way to get the seal off and feel comfortable getting it back in tight enough that it wouldn't come off. what retains it once you remove and reinstall? it's just pressed on? i'll give this a try, i have enough extras to play with that's for sure!
It's easier to remove the seal .
Posted 11 December 2006 - 01:09 PM
I replaced the cogged idler when I performed the timing belt service, and it all made much more sense to me after I removed the seal from the old one.
Yes, the seals are just pressed on -- but you could apply some silcone to the outer circumference of the seal for added security.
Posted 11 December 2006 - 04:05 PM
Shipped to my door . Tbelt 4 pulleys/cogs and crank bolt , shipping = $88.90:banana:
Posted 11 December 2006 - 04:09 PM
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users