tuner-automotive

Thanx all for your help. Turns out its the seal between the frt diff and tranny. We have auto fluid in the frt diff and nothing inn the tranny. Its purging auto fluid from the frt diff breather hose from the auto fluid flooding the frt diff. Gonna have to drop the diff and tranny and replace the seal snd purge and refill both components fluids. I love this site!

Actually , when I added alittle fluid to the tranny after the episode it smelled like rotten eggs.

They are the vent hoses for the tranny and diff. Fluid is good, or was good anyways. 200 miles ago the fluid level was perfect. Now , out of nowhere it starts to spit fluid out of the tranny breather hose. Any idea why it would do this even when not over filled?

I was wondering if there was a tranny cooler but I didnt see a small radiator in front of the engines radiator. There are 2 small hoses , there side by side on the top of the back of the bellhousing that look like the belong to something .

Car is a 03 Forester auto tranny 2.5 4 cylinder EJ25. Its leaking tranny fluid like a water faucet from a 3/4" hose on the back of the bellhousing. Is this a tranny bye pass hose ? There are 2 identical hoses . side by side that mount to a small metal bracket. Where they originally connected together with something? Was there suppose to be a fitting or a selanoid there? No check engine light or AT Temp lighr on but the car is un driveable as the fluid just pours out as soon as you start the car. Help ASAP and gracias.

Can you send me a link to one of those knock-offs?

Well from your amount of gutting I can certainly expect there not to be any bottom end gain. There is almost zero back pressure on your car now. Im going w/2.25". I had a 90 2.2L 5spd w/flowmaster 50 , no resonator , 2nd cat delete and it wasnt loud and had better throttle response and low end torque.

m doing a full header back custom exhaust in the very near future. Just getting my parts and info together first. Im going to have the exhaust shop build my headers. Since the heads are single port , this should be easy and simple for them. Is the current exhaust dia. on my 96 2.2L NA 2"? Should I go 2.25" or 2.5" dia. I have a cone filter on the car now so this should compliment it well. Im using a Summit racing turbo muffler and a universal Catco cat , no resonator. Any suggestions or tips.

So the question came up cause Im looking at a 92 Audi 100cs Quattro avant with a possible blown head gasket. I was doing some web research and came across these 2 repair fluids. http://www.rxauto.com/?gclid=CLa-zJft148CFQpMYQodLXBHIQ and http://www.steelseal.com/eng/home.html Was wondering if anybody has any experience with these or any other type of fluid fixes.

Ive replaced about 100 of these and have never depressurized. Just a shop towel and slowly backed it off the nipples on the filter.

GD - Youve probably seen the one Im talking about on pdxcraigslist?

Yeah , I thought it was funny he said its starts but has a broken rod. Well if the motor is toast then Ill pass but if it doesnt have a broken rod and just a spun bearing then what am I looking at ? A total rebuild of the crank bearings and engine seals?

I have a line on a lower mileage 94 Legacy touring wagon with a auto and EJ22T motor for $1200. I really want a turbo wagon and this price is intising. It has a broken #3 rod , at least thats what the owner tells me. It can be started but not driven. What am I looking for as far as repair costs to fix this and can I do it in my garage? Does this en tale pulling the motor?

OK , I let it cool for an hour and then removed the rad cap. Added alittle more coolant, and squeezed the upper hose to help release any air and i actually got quite a few bubbles out. Topped it off and let it idle for about 25 min. It actually held temp. Didnt overheat and the gauge read a constant mid way for the whole 25 min. I guees its fixed now. Thanx all

Got it home and therm was upside down . Flipped it but still car runs hot . No hjeat on lower rad hose but H2O pump is working as i have pressure in the system. Heater is blowing hot and fans are kicking in. Im stumped unless i still have air in the line?

Yup ,here I go:eek:

Oops, there it is. Its upside down. Now I gotta limp it home 7 miles on the freeway , total of 10 with an upside down thermostat. Prey nothing fails. Luckily its an ambient temp of 45 deg here today.

Stupid question maybe. Which was does the thermostat go into the housing? Does it go with the springs in first or the other way? I have the short version of what I se above.

I drained the radiator via lower hoses. I then tilted the rear of the vehicle up and drained the block from the top hose. Then I removed the thermostat and drained there. I used a aftermarket thermostat that came with my Tbelt kit. Ive used these kits in the past and also installed the water pump from the kit aswell. put the car back on the ground and then filled the block thru the upper hose then installed the hose. Then I slowly filled the radiator thru the cap. Started the car for 1 fan cycle and then reinstalled cap and drove. Now the upper hose is warm , lower is cold and it sounds like its bubbling in the upper hose and tries to overheat.

I did the search and thats how I filled the raiadtor the sencond time. I just did a Tbelt job myself . Belts , pulleys. water pump, Thermostat. Everything went smooth. I filled the radiator and lets it run with cap off until the fans came on. Then let it sit over bite and topped it off. Started it up today and drove the freeway to work. Looked in rearview mirror and saw whitesmoke coming out from under the car. Looked at thermostat and it was on the H. Noticed no hot air coming from vents. Popped the hood and noticed the lower radiator hose was cold and also sucked in, like a vacumn. Released the pressure from the raiator by way of rad cap and that relieved the lower radiator hose being sucked in. Started car and limped it home. I had to pull over numerous times to let it cool as i didnt want it to OVERheat. Pulled in the garage and drained the fluid again. This time I followed the directions found here in USMB. Car idled great and didnt overheat until........ I got on the hwy and it got almost up to the H again. Im getting hot air from the vents and blowing the fan cools the engine. Im not smoking out the back. Upper hose is hot. Lower hose is cold. Radiator cap is cold. Allthe lines going to the heater coil are warm. But the upper radiator hose you can hear the water boiling. Whats up??? Tstat seemed good and fluid was added correctly. FYI - I did all the work myself.

So the innovativespeed site shows that rear trans mount for a WRX. I need one for a 96 2.2l 5MT Outback. Is it compatible?

Any way to check this by myself? Im all alone here.:-\

2.2l 96 outback 5MT. The gear shift lever feels like its in the wrong spot? Usually you would pull the gear shift lever towards you and then up for 1st gear and straight up from neutral for 3rd gear. My shift lever doesnt allow me to go towards me and up it just barely moves towards the driver seat and up. And 3rd gear doesnt go straight up but kinda towards the passenger seat and then up. I think something is missaligned ? I can drive the car no problem but Im also trying to tackle a vibration/rattle noise down aswell and the sound seems to be coming from between the frt seats below the middle console. I think the 2 issues are combines someway? Bad Tranny mounts or engine mounts cause this issue???

Ok lemme give you an actual side by side comparison. I had a 97 2.2L legacy auto. Had piston slap when cold and once warmed to full op temp was nearly(nearly) gone. It was like this when I bought it. I changed the oil to Mobil 1 10w30 full syn. and the piston slap was always there. Never really went away when car had warmed up . Now remember before , I said piston slap was elimintaed when I was using dino before, once the car was at op temp. So I drove with the Mobil 1 for 1500 miles and iy never changed. constant piston slap, just not as bad once warm, but still more pronounce then when I was running dino oil. I switched back to dino oil using Dello 15w40 and the piston slap was minor . It was the best its ever been when cold and completly eliminated once at op temp. Just a thought and it worked for me. Dello is good oil and decently priced.

Seriously...... You need to start by confirming that there is power at the ignition switch by testing the power lead into the ignition switch for voltage . Use a test light. If there is power then test the power wire coming out from the ignition switch with the key in the on position and check that for power. Once you have verified power in both positions then you can move forward to the engine bay for faults w/no spark. You really need to do things in order to slowly ween out the possibilities. Let us know.