tuner-automotive

All the pulleys and tensioners aswell as the belt were changed when I did the job. Also removed and reinstalled the radiator. CEL comes on every now and then. I got the code when I accesssed the OBDI connectors under the dash and counted the flashes.

If any of the 90-94 2.2L engines have the little pulley for the A/C belt. You know , the one that you adjust the tension on , Id need one. That and a IAC (idle air control) valve, and Camshaft position sensor,I need these aswell. Im in oregon and these should ship cheap.

I have a aftermarket HU. So I would just plug them into the frt speaker terminals.

I want to take the little tweeters from a 96+ legacy outback and put them in my 92 legacy. Will the snap right into place ? The little ones in the frt doors ?

Its stored code. Only comeson every now and then. I have to bay the throttle to start it when cold but when its fully warm it starts right up. Just gonna have to deal w/it till after christmas.

I never removed it when I did the job. It sits behind the left tbelt cover on the head side. Looks like it bolts on with 2 8 or 10mm bolts and plugs in behine the TB. If Im looking at the right sensor? According to my haynes manual.

Changed the tbelt on the 92 2.2 Legacy and it runs just fine . Throws a CEL #13 for camshaft position sensor. Car is hard to start when cold , alittle better when warm . Have to use the gas pedal alittle to get it to start. Kind of like its carburated. Other than that it drives like it did before I did the Tbelt and pulleys. Do I have to replace the CPS or is it a repairable component?

I did a search but found nothing. Anyway to reset the ECU on a 92 Legacy NA 2.2L 5spd?

Well I think were good to go. Started the car cold w/the heater on . Slowly poured fluid into the cap w/the purge screw unscrewed. waited till it was full and then stopped. let the car idle w/cap off until it started to spill out the filler. Capped it and left the purge screw unscrewed. Let it idle for another 10 minutes and no overheat. In fact, it seems like the needle is staying abit lower than it was before the tbelt change. Ill check the rad. again once it cools down.

Im sure theres air in the system as I did remove the rad. for the job. I also filled it thru the radiator and not the tube. Any suggestions on how to rectify this ?

I just did the tbelt on my 92 2.2l Legacy 5spd. All went well but now it overheats? All the belts are good and theres plenty of antifreeze in the car. at fisrt the heater wouldnt blow cold , but after awhile. 2starts of the car , it finally started to blow hot at the heater. But the gauge on the dash still keeps going up. Whats going on?

I just bought a 92 legacy 5spd with 229k miles for $500. Had to change the fluids and belts but it drives like a champ. I have a friend at work that has 330k on his original engine in his 93 legacy awd 5spd. If ist clean , doesnt smoke and is a current daily driver get it . But pay no more than $500-$800 for it. Just my .02:grin:

Thanx, its a 5spd .

I did the car in gear , blocked tires and e brake on routine. Im the only person around so i cant get any help on the brake pedal. So your saying i should be able to get it on tight enough this way?

I see no where to block the flywheel.

1st try = ran like crap = Of by 3 teeth. 2nd try = purred like a kitten = Readjusted the 3 teeth dealy. Now to just figure out how to get the crankshaft bolt back on tight since i have no special tools.

I just did the timing belt on my 92 2.2L legacy. I used the starter bump trick to get it off . Hoe do i get it back on ? I dont have any special tools .

So general consensus is its OK to start the engine with all the belts off and the radiator removed , but only for no more than 30 seconds?

I just got done installing the Tbelt and pulleys on my 92 Legacy 2.2L. I was wondering if its ok to start the car , for a VERY short time , before I install the auxiliary belts? I removed the radiator to do the job so I wont have the car on but for maybe 30 sec. I just want to make sure I have everything lined up right and that it runs correctly.

I just bit the bullet and ordered all new pulleys and crank + Tbelt from a outfit in Yakima Wa that specializes in T-belts and stuff. Shipped to my door . Tbelt 4 pulleys/cogs and crank bolt , shipping = $88.90:banana:

Im doing a tbelt job on a 92 legacy 2.2L manual awd and was wondering if the bearings wear repackable on the idlers ?