tuner-automotive

Im actually picking up some good used axles for $20 ea. Craigslist is grand

Well I just got this lovely 96 Outback w/180k miles on her, and I have a laundry list of things to do to it before the Mts open next month. This will be my 5th Ru . I do all my own work , period, LOL. New timing belt Cam seals Oil pump seal Water pump New alt and power steering belts. Rollers and tensioner - all these are ordered and will be here tomorrow:clap: New driveaxles , driver and passenger fronts . both have cracked boots and the engine bay likes to smoke from all the CV grease, LOL. New Oxygen sensor New exhaust with 2nd cat removed. New plugs New fuel filter id like to upgrade the headers but am having a difficult time finding anything made for my NA outback thats not UBER expensive.

Yes , it does but I dont suspect the throwout bearing as the sound is no where near the clutch area. Also it doesnt do it when I accelerate. Only on engine deceleration. Yes I have a manual tranny.

Thanx for the info. Yeah it doesnt rattle when accelerating or idle. Just when I let off the gas or down shift . Its weird. Driveline seemed solid and no play. Center heat shield that goes over the driveline was intact and solid. All flex points on the exhaust are good. Ill check those mounting plates tonight when I get home.

Yeah after much reading and education I dont suspect the VC . I dont have any torque bind what so ever. Just a rattle/growl when letting off the gas at above 2k rpms , or downshifting . What type of inspection can I do to check if its the front diff.?

Well it wasnt the heat shields . Inspected , tapped and tightned them all. Could my Viscous Coupler be causing this . The growl or rattle is coming from right in the middle of the car under the center console between the frt seats. This is getting annoying, LOL.

I have a 96 outback MT . Will driveaxles from a 98 outback fit on my 96 ? Does it matter if there auto or tranny or will they all work?

Thanx. Im kinda leaning on the Heat shields as it olny happens when I down shift from any gear. Doesnt matter if ist warm or cold. Had a passenger w/me yesterday and they thought the rattle was coming from under there bum , LOL.

I have a 96 outback MT that I just purchased. 180k miles. new oil New tranny oil New air filter. Makes a wierd rattle sound, which I thought was a heat shield but isnt, when I down shidt or let off the gas and let the engine slow the vehicle. Sound is coming from underneath the car . Sounds like its coming from under the middle console, between the seats. Car drives like a champ and doesnt have any clutch slippage or tranny driveability issues. Any ides?

I just picked up my gonzillionath Subaru. Lets see if I can hold onto this one. 1996 Subaru Outback 180k miles 5spd straight and white. heated seats. Strong engine and clutch. Heres the fixer part. Has an oil leak that leaks onto the Y pipe and causes the vehicle to smoke in the engine bay. Has a whine/noise when letting off the gas at upper rpms or down shifting. Check engine light is on and when I connect the self diagnositic cable the check engine light doesnt flash the 12 it just flashes rapidly. Any ideas folks?

Yes brakes will be my 1st check out. I use to load tractor trailers for united rentals so load and towing are in my background. AT cooler and brake upgrades will be on the list aswell.

OK , I need to know what you guys have towed w/yer subies? Im planning on selling my 94 Isuzu Trooper and getting a post 93 Legacy or Outback. Question is though. Can the Legacy/Outback handle pulling a tow dolly with another subie on the dolly? It would be towed on flat to mellow inclines , just up and down the I-5 corridor here in Oregon. Thanx all . I just really want my subie back but dont know if it can handle the work load I need it to do?

Thanx. If done this millions of times on various roos I just couldnt seem to find hers . I was scratching my head going , "Am I crazy ?" LOL

OK so I helped my friend by a 1990 Legacy wagon FWD and the check engine light is on. I removed the lower kick panel to access the self diag. hookup and cant find it? Its wierd , the only "T" shaped hookup down there is for the door chime . That one is on the passenger side of the driver footwell. Where am I missing it????? Its a auto tranny aswell. Any help thanx.

HELL YEAH! Id dump the NA for a Turbo boxer motor any day! Especially for $900! I got $900 at my disposale right now and id buy it , but alas Im on the wrong coast.

Well Im thinking of using the Dello 15w40 since I only have 500 miles or so on the syntheic oil. The seals shouldnt have been under the usage of the synthetics long enough to cause problems . At least thats my way of thinking.

I recently bought a 97 Legacy 2.2l w/132k miles. When I bought it , it had a slight piston slap that went away once the car was warm. The previous owner was using 10w30 dino oil. I wanted to switch all the fluids to full synthetic and started by swapping the oil to Mobil 1 5w30. Now the slight slap is a prominent slap that never really goes away. Im thinking the 5w30 is much to lite and I should run a heavier oil. I usually use Chevron Dello 15w40 in older cars and am thinking of going to it in this case but dont know about doing so since i have run Synthetic in the car now. Ive heard that you shouldnt change back to dino after going to syn. Ive only ran the synthetic for about 5-700 miles. Also, is the Mobil 1 15w40 full syn gonna be as good as the Dello 15w40? Thanx

Thanx. I dont know the history of the car since I got it from a guy who bought it at auction. Anyways, Ive always used either.. Chevron Dello 15w40 in 65 VW Ragtop Beetle and Mobil 1 5w30 in the 03 VW Beetle Turbo S.

5w30 is bad? I kinda thought so. Ive put 500 miles on it with the 5w30 . Ill drain it tomorrow. Damn , theres $25 down the drain.

Well after 5 years of flipping and working on Subies and VW's , I finally got 1 that Im gonna keep for me. 1997 Legacy L Wagon 2.2L auto tranny w/131k miles . Had alittle piston slap when I first started it . The owner had put in Penzoil 10w30. I wanted to swap all fluids to full syn so I started with the engine. Mobil 1 5w30 . Not a good thing . Piston slap is worse and last longer and never fully goes away. Im gonna change it out to Mobil 1 15w40 this weekend. Changed the front , rear and auto tranny fluid to Amsoil . Woked like a charm on my drive to Mt Bachelor in Bend oregon last weekend. One Q's I have is ............... Is my 97 2.2L interferent ? I know my 90-94 legacy's , that Im usually fixing and selling , are non-interferrent.

I thnk Im just gonna go w/a cone filter and MAF adapter. The stock tube is good enough .

My 93 Legacy is 5x100 corretc? Im use to V's and alot of the newer VW are 5x100. I was wondering if they will fit or if the hubs are to small or big?

Yeah , I just want the short RAM as I drive in alot of snow and rain.

Where does the filter go then if it goes into the fenderwall? Is it inthe fenderwall ?

Will this 95+ Impreza Ebay special fit a 93 Legacy EJ22 ? Ill have to get the adapter for the MAF though , right?