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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Brumby conversion: EJ22, hybrid AWD center lock, SUCCESS!!!


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166 replies to this topic

#26 baccaruda

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Posted 13 February 2007 - 10:01 PM

Yes.

The EJ radiator looks like it would require cutting part of the chassis out


Nice job! I can't wait to take it for a spin next time I'm in Australia :lol:

#27 ShawnW

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Posted 13 February 2007 - 11:09 PM

Sounds good and kindof similar to my project wagon.

Lotsa stuff to do and it gets to a snag and you switch to another part and ponder the snag while you do...hit another snag, repeat...

Take it from me focus on completing one little phase at a time and it goes alot faster.

#28 Jerry DeMoss

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Posted 13 February 2007 - 11:56 PM

Excellent write up on the whole thing.Makes me think of stuff before I attempt an ej swap like i want to do in the future.Nice work!:)

#29 Phizinza

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Posted 15 February 2007 - 02:05 AM

I got the shifter linkages in yesterday, cable operated low range (came stock on the liberty, so I thought I'd grab it and bolt it on the Brumby, I'll have to get pictures of that later. I am amazed that there was a unused bolt right in the right spot to fit the 5sp's shifter! Well, about an inch to far to the right, but it still works great.

Thanks for all the replys... I really want this thing rockin soon! I'm going to put all the things it needs to run on and see if I got this wiring loom correct in the next couple of days.. My poor brother, I've been getting him to help me out on all his days off.. ahaha.. He knows I'll help him with his turbo x1/9 project next, so all is good :)

#30 Phizinza

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Posted 15 February 2007 - 07:39 PM

And the pictures to go with my last post..

http://offroadingsub...er_linkages.jpg
http://offroadingsub...sp_shifters.jpg
http://offroadingsub...e_positions.jpg

I had to remove the boot for the low range lever too :( and I've long since had a boot for the shifter. Maybe I'll get something for them. Might have to break out the lether, tools and sewing niddle...

I'm going to work on the intake later today. It's good not having a full time job :) ahaha.
The y-pipe exhaust looks like it needs some cutting and welding to get it to fit how I want so I'll have to wait til my brothers got another day off, as his 100% better at welding them me. I better start looking for a muffler. I want 2 inch pipe cat back. I want a muffler thats the same as my old one, which looks something like this:

_____| |_
|....../ /..|
|...../ /...|
|..../ /....|
|.../ /.....|
|../ /......|
|./ /.......|
-| |------

lol.. I wonder if that makes any sence to you?
Basiclly it's a straight through but it goes on an angle. It sounds 10x better then a "cannon" or "hot dog" muffler I reckon.

I wonder if I can find one just like it... hmmm

#31 86BRATMAN

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Posted 16 February 2007 - 01:03 AM

And the pictures to go with my last post..

http://offroadingsub...er_linkages.jpg
http://offroadingsub...sp_shifters.jpg
http://offroadingsub...e_positions.jpg

I had to remove the boot for the low range lever too :( and I've long since had a boot for the shifter. Maybe I'll get something for them. Might have to break out the lether, tools and sewing niddle...

I'm going to work on the intake later today. It's good not having a full time job :) ahaha.
The y-pipe exhaust looks like it needs some cutting and welding to get it to fit how I want so I'll have to wait til my brothers got another day off, as his 100% better at welding them me. I better start looking for a muffler. I want 2 inch pipe cat back. I want a muffler thats the same as my old one, which looks something like this:

_____| |_
|....../ /..|
|...../ /...|
|..../ /....|
|.../ /.....|
|../ /......|
|./ /.......|
-| |------

lol.. I wonder if that makes any sence to you?
Basiclly it's a straight through but it goes on an angle. It sounds 10x better then a "cannon" or "hot dog" muffler I reckon.

I wonder if I can find one just like it... hmmm


Well Magnaflow makes sonething very similar to that muffler design, I would suggest however going with a little bigger than 2'' exhaust, thats just a big choke hold on an ej motor. A good medium would be 2.25", good low end torque, decent top end power. My 95 brighton wagon actually picked up a good bit from that size pipe, it may suit your needs a little better.

#32 Numbchux

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Posted 16 February 2007 - 01:52 AM

Well Magnaflow makes sonething very similar to that muffler design, I would suggest however going with a little bigger than 2'' exhaust, thats just a big choke hold on an ej motor. A good medium would be 2.25", good low end torque, decent top end power. My 95 brighton wagon actually picked up a good bit from that size pipe, it may suit your needs a little better.


agreed! When I get my exhaust made up, I'm shooting for DUAL 2"....

#33 Phizinza

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Posted 16 February 2007 - 04:40 AM

Even if I'm still running the stock 1 and 3/4 inch pipe? I just figured since its going to be small at the front there wouldn't be much difference going from 2" straight through to anything bigger.. I'm not planning on getting anything for the headers any time soon...

Only reason I want it small is I would like this engine a bit quiter then my EA81dc with it's 2" all the way and no cat.

Anyhow, nothing new has happened. i'm trying to figure out what to do with the throttle cable and clutch. I'm guessing the clutch just needs the ea82 5sp's cable. As for the throttle I'm looking at fitting the Subaru Liberty's cable, but it has a different end on the pedel side... hmm

#34 the_postie

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Posted 16 February 2007 - 06:39 AM

More updates!!! :)

The EJ radiator looks like it would require cutting part of the chassis out, so I think I'll stick with my EA81 version. And if it isn't good enough in the future I'll get a double core one. Although, mine has never had a problem with over heating my EA81dc exepct the few times the cap failed.

:rolleyes:

Grab a tape measure and head off to a wrecking yard look for a 87 nissan pulsar,it has the right size outlets in the right spot its alloy and plastic and keeps the motor cooler than the ej rad up the beach;) i know it fits in a ea should be alright in a MY.Cheap too
I'm running a 2 1/4" resonator and cannon its got a nice boxer note but may be a bit loud for what you a re looking for ,however my wife reckons it makes young fella's drop there jaws when she's doing the shopping in it.

#35 Phizinza

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Posted 22 February 2007 - 07:36 PM

Alright, another update.

I've only been working on small things since last time. But heres the big things from everything I've done.

First the intake. I really don't like the setup I have created, but I'll live with it for now. I wanted a air box in the spare wheel well out of the way and out of the water.
http://offroadingsub...ntake_setup.jpg

I've also pulled out a lot of trim to install a new fuel return hose. Oh the joys of pulling the air box out and squeezing wires and pipes where they were never suppose to go.
http://offroadingsub...fuel_lines1.jpg
http://offroadingsub...fuel_lines2.jpg
http://offroadingsub...fuel_lines3.jpg

I've also put the diff locker solenoids in and piped them into the intake manifold via one of the plugs on the side of it. I pulled the plug out and used a brass gas fitting, and it worked great. Lets just hope it operates the diff locker now....
http://offroadingsub..._subarubrat.jpg


One question though. Do the solenoids stay "on" all the time while either in locked mode or unlocked mode. Or do they just push the diff locker into place then switch off? There is a detent on the diff locker that holds it in place.

#36 970subaru

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Posted 22 February 2007 - 08:02 PM

agreed! When I get my exhaust made up, I'm shooting for DUAL 2"....

that wouldnt be as good as a single 2.25 both in terms of power, weight, and ease of plumbing. but do it if you really want to I guess. it probably wouldnt even sound as good as a single.

#37 Phizinza

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Posted 22 February 2007 - 08:16 PM

that wouldnt be as good as a single 2.25 both in terms of power, weight, and ease of plumbing. but do it if you really want to I guess. it probably wouldnt even sound as good as a single.

I disagree with the disadvantage in "power" you speak of. I would think 2" x 2" would have more area then 2.25". If it is done right it would give more power. But yes, the extra weight wouldn't help. Would look good though!

#38 Numbchux

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Posted 22 February 2007 - 09:08 PM

that wouldnt be as good as a single 2.25 both in terms of power, weight, and ease of plumbing. but do it if you really want to I guess. it probably wouldnt even sound as good as a single.


psssshhh. naysayers. Everybody's got an opinion and nobody's done it. Well, that's going to change. True dual with a crossover. starting with borla knockoff unequal length headers so the exhaust pulses get to the X at different times (rumble and torque). I've photoshopped a basic idea of what I'm going to do:
Posted Image

with a resonator and a muffler of somesort on either side. This will allow better ground clearance than a single 2.5+" pipe (when you're as low as I already am....a half inch is the world), and will probably sound amazing. both pipes will exit right next to each other in the stock location....to add to the sleeper effect, and so I can tuck the mufflers up into the unibody.

[/hijack]

Phiz. looks like you're making good progress there. to answer your question about the diff locker solenoids. They do stay engaged. I found at the ice races (I didn't have a T yet, so it was either heat, or locker...) that under hard conditions, it would frequently unlock on me. the stock switch is just a DPST switch, power in the middle, and then out one side, and straight to one of the solenoids.

#39 970subaru

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Posted 22 February 2007 - 09:09 PM

well as you know, you only need a certain amount of area for a given NA motor to make the best power. I ran the #'s and dual 2" is equivelant in cross sectional area to roughly 2.75" single, which is a little overkill for a motor like an ej22. yeah, you cant directly compare the flow of 2 smaller pipes to one larger but I still think it wouldnt work that well.
even if you run an H or X pipe, its still not going to scavenge as well as a single exhaust. v8's scavenge a lot better with 2x the pulses.
all that said if it works out it will look pretty cool.
nice photochop by the way!

#40 Phizinza

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Posted 22 February 2007 - 09:24 PM

Phiz. looks like you're making good progress there. to answer your question about the diff locker solenoids. They do stay engaged. I found at the ice races (I didn't have a T yet, so it was either heat, or locker...) that under hard conditions, it would frequently unlock on me. the stock switch is just a DPST switch, power in the middle, and then out one side, and straight to one of the solenoids.

Cheers for that. I think I'll mount the switch where my choke cable used to go, on RHD car that's just down and to the left of the steering wheel.

I've also soldered up plugs to the difflocker and reverse light sensors. My diff locker should light up the 4WD light now :) It will be interesting to see if that light works as I've never seen it on in this car before.

I still have to put the temp sensor in and figure out a oil pressure sensor too.. That will be interesting.

#41 Phizinza

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Posted 25 February 2007 - 01:13 AM

Nothing much has happened. So I decided I'd change the title.. Just to confuse everyone. No, it just makes it better for when people are searching. :)

#42 waimaks

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Posted 25 February 2007 - 02:13 AM

So uhh....:brow:
Whatcha doin with the dualcarber....:)

#43 Phizinza

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Posted 25 February 2007 - 02:32 AM

So uhh....:brow:
Whatcha doin with the dualcarber....:)

New custom manifolds (yes, two.) Going to fit two webers to it, and shave the block as much as possible. I want to see how much comp I can gain and maybe see if I can make a 140HP N/A EA81 :) Maybe run it on LNG or LPG instead of the webers and 102otc fuel. We'll see.. I have no idea what I would put it in.

As for the original manifold and carbs, they are going on my brothers wagon after they get a rebuild and after he upgrades I don't know.. Might even sell them.

#44 waimaks

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Posted 26 February 2007 - 04:00 AM

I'd be interested in knowing how the dualcarb stuff compares to what you're putting together.
I havn't had any luck finding dualcarb stuff over here, Have been plotting how to make my own intake (or get someone to do it for me). Am thinking the heads need serious flow work first though.
Anyway. That is irrelavent.
Nice work!

#45 Phizinza

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Posted 26 February 2007 - 07:01 PM

Am thinking the heads need serious flow work first though.

Yes, I believe that is the only real problem with the EA81. Lucky for me the original dual carb heads have port design more like the EA82.
I've heard just the manifold and carbs make a normal EA81 a fair bit better, better then a weber so I've heard.

I got a radiator and fuel parts yesterday. I'll post back later with more progress...

#46 Phizinza

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Posted 01 March 2007 - 10:15 PM

Bit more progress...

But first, I've been looking at what I've done with the fuel lines.. And I think it ain't gonna work. After more research I've seen most people use the standard tiny return hose? And just use new rubber on them. I thought I had to replace the whole line, and I have. But on the pump I've used a T piece, which just ain't gonna work. As when air gets in the system, which it will some time for another, it will just pump air.. So I am thinking of just using the original return hose from the tank to the fuel pump area and adapting it to my new EFI hose coming back from the engine bay. I'll get on the lathe and make something up for there..

But for the real progress..
I've mounted the center bearing for the propshaft. No welds, just bolts. The pictures say everything that is needed. Execpt that I only have a 2" lift so this is how I got away with this.
http://offroadingsub...aring_mount.jpg


And my bro helped me out with his welding yet again. We are hoping it does not leak, but if it does he'll weld it up again.
http://offroadingsub...pipe_welded.jpg
http://offroadingsub...ipe_mounted.jpg
http://offroadingsub...crossmember.jpg
The marked part on the engine crossmember in the last picture is where I cut out for clearence for the o2 sensor.
On the right pipe I made a slit (not all the way thru) about 1mm thick. And on the left pipe I cut a wedge shape of about 12mm wide near the cat and then cut out 15mm of the pipe near the engine. It didn't go all to plan and needed a patch to make up lost pipe. So I hope it works..
I plan to get an exhaust shop to setup something much better later on. But for now I'm just going to use my old 2" pipe and muffler... At least that way there is some upgrading to be done :) So if "I get bored of the sound or there isn't enough power I don't have to do anything ridiculus.

I have made a list of other things to complete, and it is growing. I can't nock enough off of it quick enough before I tihnk of new things.

The radiator I got from a 89 Nissan was looking like it was going to fit great until I relised the filler cap was going to be sticking out the hood... :-\ So I'm not working on mounting it lower which will help with mounting the lower rad hose anyhow..

The more I do, the more that things go wrong and the more work I create. I am almost at the point of testing the engine and loom, but I really don't want to just incase it doesn't work :eek:

#47 86BRATMAN

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Posted 01 March 2007 - 11:03 PM

I feel you there man, I don't really want to test my harness either, for the simple fact of how long I spend sitting in our kitchen floor working on the stupid thing...

I'll get brave after I install a fuel pump I guess...

#48 the_postie

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Posted 02 March 2007 - 01:53 AM

Not a 100% sure but i think the 89 rad is different to the 87.

#49 Phizinza

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Posted 02 March 2007 - 04:11 AM

Not a 100% sure but i think the 89 rad is different to the 87.

Yeah, probably. I checked it out at u-pull it and it looked good. It would fit a stock EA81 great but for the fact the filler is so high... The pipes are slightly smaller then the Liberty ones, but I think the liberty pipes will go on ok...

#50 joostvdw

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Posted 03 March 2007 - 01:58 PM

Yeah, probably. I checked it out at u-pull it and it looked good. It would fit a stock EA81 great but for the fact the filler is so high... The pipes are slightly smaller then the Liberty ones, but I think the liberty pipes will go on ok...


can't you cut off the filler neck and have a shop weld it back somewhere?

perhaps halfway the sidetanks, maybe at an angle, doesn't really matter, altough it does make burping the system a bit harder :-p

edit: Owh, I forgot something important... Awesome work! :banana:




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