Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!
|Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.
We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!
Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!
clutch help, please look- its a stupid question
Posted 30 November 2003 - 09:31 PM
This is my first post, and Im new to working on cars. I have a 92 loyale wagon, 2wd, no turbo, and was wondering if the clutch is hydraulic or dry. also how can i check it if it's hydraulic?
In addition I need to buy a new pilot bearing, but haven't gotten a chance to take the old one out yet. Is the pilot bearing a sealed or unsealed bearing?
Also any tips anyone has for changing a clutch such as engine support methods would really help me out..
Thnaks again, hopefully Ill be talking to you all soon...
Posted 30 November 2003 - 11:50 PM
The hill holder prevents the car from rolling back when it's in a forward gear with the clutch depressed.
The pilot bearing should be sealed.
Posted 30 November 2003 - 11:58 PM
Might as well change the rear main seal while your in there - cheap and easy to do. Don't want any oil on that pretty new clutch.
If you can, rent an engine hoist for a day. This can make the job a LOT easier. Pull out the radiator, then the engine - do he clutch, then put it back. Should be able to do it in a day if you have all the parts. Maybe two days if you need the flywheel turned too.
Another thing - when installing the enigine back into the car, place a jack under the tranny, and jack it up a few inches. Place the tranny in 4th gear, and put a breaker bar and socket on the crank pully bolt. Turn the crank while inserting the engine onto the transmission shaft. Will go in much quicker if you use this method...... credit goes to Qman for this method of installation.
Posted 01 December 2003 - 12:07 AM
the pilot bearing is sealed, and you can get one at many places. some people here advocate using subaru dealer parts whenever possible.. i'm not sure if the pilot bearing is one example, but when i do a clutch i go to the dealer to buy two new throwout bearing clips. they're so cheap that there's no excuse in my book not to use a brand new one. who wants to do another clutch job just to replace an old broken pin?
anyway, i usually get my pilot and TO bearings in the same trip to the dealer as the clips. this is also a good time to check your clutch cable and check the boot for the clutch fork that surrounds it where it exits the top of the transmission.. those get torn up with age and why not do it all at once? don't forget to have the flywheel resurfaced too.
if you go thru the archives or the USRM (ultimate subaru repair manual) there have already been a few write ups on how to do a clutch job. good luck!
Posted 01 December 2003 - 01:34 AM
Posted 01 December 2003 - 01:47 AM
Posted 01 December 2003 - 01:54 AM
Posted 01 December 2003 - 02:28 AM
one more question for now...
is a through out bearing the same as a release bearing?
thanks again, hopefully Ill be able to start on it friday.
Posted 21 December 2003 - 06:09 PM
Posted 21 December 2003 - 06:15 PM
As for 4th gear, it's harder to move the car in forth. You'll run over your feet in first.
Posted 22 December 2003 - 11:07 AM
As for converting to hydrualic...Why? The hydrualic clutch on my BroncoII(I know issues to begin with) was nothing but a pain in the a**. Non-adjustable, the throw is different each time you turn the flywheel, master and slave cylinders tend to wear and leak. You have to flush the system more often then the brakes if you do any fjording. I can understand for a large truck were the clutch pressure is hard on the leg but I'm much happier with the cable clutch on my Sube.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users