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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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how do you install the EJ22 crank and cam seal?


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13 replies to this topic

#1 grossgary

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Posted 03 February 2009 - 10:16 PM

crank seal: do you install it in the oil pump, then install the pump. or pump then seal (as the FSM suggests). i see why you should install the seal last, but that's really annoying so i never do.

cam seal is the same way, i remove the cap since i always replace the oring too. easier to install seal in cap, then install cap.

of course - the passengers side seal is annoying. what do you do to get it out and back in with such little space to work with?

#2 subaru360

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Posted 03 February 2009 - 10:22 PM

I put the pump in then the seal, same with the caps.

You risk tearing the seal if you put it in the part first, although it does work that way.

I use a big socket and a hammer to drive the seals in.

#3 davebugs

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Posted 03 February 2009 - 10:29 PM

I put the pump in then the seal, same with the caps.

You risk tearing the seal if you put it in the part first, although it does work that way.

I use a big socket and a hammer to drive the seals in.


I put the seals in last. I use a PVC coupling and a hammer to install all the seals on Suby's. Just take the seals to the hardware store to get the correct size. Actually I use the same PVC coupling for crank and cam seals.

If it's at a weird angle I'll put a block of wood over the coupling to make sure the pressure is getting applied squarely.

Then I have a much larger one for rear main seals - only when absolutely necessary.

Dave

#4 lmdew

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 06:19 AM

I put them in first with a PVC coupling then install the pump being careful of the seal of course.

The Passenger cam, I use a small straight slot to go under the lip of the seal and behind it. Sideways pressure usually moves it out. If they are stuck, sometimes driving one side in will move the other out. Last resort, I drill a small hole and thread a drywall or sheet metal screw in the pull it out.

#5 EVOthis

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 07:25 AM

Personally i have had good success with a pick for pulling the old seals out....just obviously be careful not to nick the crank snout or cam....I also install the oil pump first then drive the crank seal in....putting a little bit of oil on the inner edge of seal helps out alot....

#6 davebugs

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 07:54 AM

Didn't realize we were talking about removal. A pic (a cheapie that's a favorite - the new Craftsman's the handle just slides off). Sometimes as has been stated here a thin bladed regular screwdriver. Basically gently tap it in then typically grab the handle and push the handle up which forces the bottom of the seal out. Usually enough to be able to get the pic in there easier or do the same screwdriver thing on the other side preferably with another screwdriver.

I always put assembly lube on the inside and on the cam/crank shaft.

Dave

#7 grossgary

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 08:49 AM

i don't know what it is, but even with the radiator removed sometimes it seems to take forever to tap those seals in with a hammer in that tight space.

#8 pearlm30

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 12:01 PM

Me,too installing the seal first, I find it easier this way:)

I put them in first with a PVC coupling then install the pump being careful of the seal of course.

The Passenger cam, I use a small straight slot to go under the lip of the seal and behind it. Sideways pressure usually moves it out. If they are stuck, sometimes driving one side in will move the other out. Last resort, I drill a small hole and thread a drywall or sheet metal screw in the pull it out.



#9 Hondasucks

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 11:11 PM

I put the seals in last. I use a PVC coupling and a hammer to install all the seals on Suby's. Just take the seals to the hardware store to get the correct size. Actually I use the same PVC coupling for crank and cam seals.

If it's at a weird angle I'll put a block of wood over the coupling to make sure the pressure is getting applied squarely.

Then I have a much larger one for rear main seals - only when absolutely necessary.

Dave



The factory cam/crank seal tool is great, but I don't know the exact price... They are nice because with them you can't drive the seal in too far, but unless you fix up cars, they aren't really worth buying just to do the job once. Makes me wish that Autozone had OEM rental tools, since not everyone works at a Subaru dealership!

#10 etc

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Posted 13 April 2009 - 10:41 PM

Is there a reference site on how to do this?

What's the first thing you remove, the timing belt cover?

#11 grossgary

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Posted 14 April 2009 - 01:08 AM

you'll want to get the FSM, someone on here can probably send it to you. that's the Subaru factory service manual with a step by step.

i'd spend some serious time reading if you're not familiar with this stuff. you have an inteference engine, if you don't do it right you will have internal engine damage.

remove, in roughly this order: radiator fans. radiator overflow. radiator. accessory belts, accessory belt bracket, crank pulley, timing covers, timing belt.

#12 porcupine73

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Posted 14 April 2009 - 10:54 AM

Crank seal I do when the oil pump is off. For cam seals not on a removeable cap, I found this Lisle puller was actually quite helpful:

Posted Image
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#13 MtTech

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Posted 14 April 2009 - 03:00 PM

Is there a reference site on how to do this?

What's the first thing you remove, the timing belt cover?


Search,....search,.....search.....

the USRM can be your friend ;)

http://www.ultimates...ead.php?t=76990

#14 etc

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Posted 14 April 2009 - 04:31 PM

Awesome, thanks.




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