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Hello all! I bought a Brat a couple years back and she has been really good to me, except one of the previous owners installed an aftermarket turbo with a sidedraft Carter YH carb off an old corvair (it was a pretty cool setup). I however, live in California, and am trying to get it to pass smog. I am bringing it back to stock, and have it running with the Carter-Weber. The line marked in the first picture was originally running as a feed line for the turbo. I am planning on removing it and just installing a plug, but I am not sure what the stock condition was. The factory service manual is not immediately clear, Picture 3 shows a pressure switch installed on the non-GL models. However, Picture 4 seems to imply that the pressure switch is installed where the relief valve plug would be located (the line is coming from the block though and the relief valve plug is on the oil pump housing cover). My best guess is that on the GL models with the pressure gauge instead of switch, this port is plugged. TLDR: Can someone with a EA 81,1800cc, GL model; Send me a picture to see if that is plugged or if there is an oil line there that feeds elsewhere? Thanks!

I've searched the forum extensively but haven't found anyone with this particular issue. This '91 Loyale has been sitting for about two years. It was running fine prior to its long rest but now that the battery has been replaced and its up and running again, the following issues have cropped up: Turn signals don't turn on Hazards don't turn on Dash turn arrow indicators do not illuminate when flashers ought to be on The flasher relay is not clicking The 'Stop Lamp' dash light is lit (but brake lights and headlights are fine) Horn doesn't work Here is what I've done to try to solve the problem: replaced flasher relay (no change, no power getting to the line per the test light) replaced all hazard/blinker bulbs (no change, still no blinkers, 'stop lamp' still lit on dash) tested all fuses in box and the four fusible links under hood (all were fine, the hazard/horn/clock fuse is fine, clock works) I'm at a loss as to what to do next other than dig further into the dash and to trace the flasher wire back further (not fun). Prodemand is not helpful. Please ultimatesubaru, you're my only hope!

VVT will flag codes ending up in limp mode. The mechanism is kind of cool if you end up diving into the valve cover. Yes the oil pressure sensors leak and make a mess on top of the engine, but not expensive or hard to replace. the 3.0 h6 is a great engine presume the 3.0r is the same. we're running a jdm h6 replaced at 300k now into 400k miles on the 02 h6 outback. lots of hex bolts on the timing cover. had fuel leaks on the rails/injectors just replaced orings/seals/lines/dampeners dang expensive. had a hard steering line oring fail on the rack but what do you expect after 25 years.

Glad you got it fixed! A very interesting thread and timely too. I was just about ready to post up my own appeal for help with my 87 DL SPFI 5-speed that has nearly the same symptoms. It starts as easily as it ever has, over and over but will not idle or run at a steady throttle position. It runs great if under acceleration but I have to keep blipping the throttle to keep it running. I'll review the info here first and make sure I haven't missed anything before I start my own thread.

For any of those interested Rockauto has 4 NEW SPFI injectors in stock under an '86 GL. They're $400 USD. That's a very low price compared to some eBay sellers.

Checked the filter in the injector, it is clean.

ok, Ill look at the old one.

The spring clips need to be pushed in so they go in the notch in the pad, not sticking out on top.

I think there's a hidden filter in the injector. You might try seeing if it's got a chunk of decaying fuel line or something stuck in it, that might happen to the new injector.

I found the problem! Swapped throttle body top 2 layers. This include fuel pressure reg, IAC valve, and Injector. Runs fine now. Since the regulator measured good, and the IAC was swapped earlier, I'm going with the injector is bad.

Yeah, I figured the IAC shouldn't bother open throttle. I did have a wagon years ago that had a broken wire in the IAC circuit years ago. It ran fine, but died if I let the pedal go to idle. I also put a voltmeter on the 12V powered side of the ignition coil, and it was steady except for slight variations because the alternator rpm varying.

The IAC has no effect at open throttle, so it's easy to rule out anything to do with it.

I've had a wire break inside the engine harness to the IAC before. I've also had several connectors have poor terminal connection. Then again, I would typically get a CEL but not all the time. Since you have no hard starts I don't suspect a wiring issue with the IAC. The fact that you've swapped a majority of the typical suspect components and it still acts the same leads me to think an intermittent connection somewhere.

More things checked - Spark plug wires, checked ok, but swapped anyways, no effect. TPS switch and pot both are withing normal settings / ranges. One other thing I forgot to put in the OP, it starts right up no problem - no hard start.

Have you checked the values and calibration of the TPS? I'm not as familiar with the autos as I am with the manuals. Isn't there a drop down circuit that senses when you go in gear and it'll drop the idle?

SPFI in 93, I think I read to 94. I checked the EGR valve after the OP, and yes, it is working normally. Took it off to check that it wasn't stuck open, etc.

I'm thinking of the mpfi version. they were still doing spfi in 93? Shows how many of those I've worked on. lol Sorry, my bad. egr valve stuck open?

@bushytailsadvice was exactly what I needed. I just finished up my brake job tonight. Thanks again man!

Coolant normal. Fuel pressure stays steady at 22 PSI, just like my other EA82 SPFI wagon. Never moves vs throttle position or load. No recent fuel up. The roughness seems more random than cylinder specific. I'll try to check the exhaust pulses tomorrow. I also swapped the distributor since the original post, no change.

I haven't troubleshooted that problem on one of those, so just some random ideas... Does fuel pressure go up to 35+ when you give it gas, and stay there as the rpm drops? Did you recently get gas, or other chance of contaminated fuel? Sample a bit into a clear container from the pressure test port if not sure. Does the exhaust coming out the rear feel normal, with distinct pulses per cylinder as it idles? Does it feel like all cylinders are weak, or like one or two cylinders are cutting out? Coolant level and condition normal?

This car is in a garage, driven a couple times per week. Suddenly, yesterday while driving, - Runs rough. Idle, dies. Idle in N dies. I did manage to drive it home, Seemed to run ok down the road, not acting like starved for fuel. In N, press the gas and hold, the RPM goes up, [example 2500]. Then after a second or 2 drops about 500, and the roughness returns. Does this regardless of what RPM you get initially - goes up, then drops back. Does this hot or cold. Capped the vacuum tap on the passenger side, no effect. This eliminates EGR, Evap, HVAC controls as possible culprits. Capped the vacuum tap for the brake booster, no effect. Distributor cap & rotor look normal, not loose. Timing belts are good, not jumped. Swapped the MAF, no effect. Swapped the IAC valve, no effect. CTS has nominal normal readings. Fuel pressure normal 22-23 PSI. Ignition coil & igniter swapped, no effect. ECU swapped - Still runs crap / same, but doesn't quite die at idle in N Running out of ideas....

Ah oh thanks i tried searching online and i that i could find was something about auto darkening mirrors but i couldn't find if these models had that.

Side mirror heater.

Hey all i just acquired this 2000 Subaru legacy outback wagon used and i was wondering what if anything this button is supposed to do? IDK if it had a label/decal if it did its worn off.

Thanks man, that's a heck of a writeup!