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Imdew - DUH! Of course! I'll check that out right away! THANKS!!

Bit of a delay getting the title transferred due to a rogue DMV employee. I seriously debated scrapping the car over it. This is the second time this employee has accused me of forging signatures due to a gel ink pen. They claim it looks like it was printed/copied due to the darker more consistent gel ink. They also made me get a new title transfer form because the joint owner of the car signed it differently than the back of the title. I waited in line my third visit and just let people go in front of me until a different employee was free. The original 1986 Texas title was surrendered and I'll have the new one in a few weeks. With this step completed I'm a lot more comfortable investing time into the car.

Good Driveshaft shop can rebuild it.

Junk yards and online (eBay, FB marketplace) would be where to source the axles. Problem is finding a car with the right axles. There's 4 or 5 different types of axles. While there's general guidelines you can follow to know which axles will be in which car, it also seems that Fuji just grabbed a random set of axles off the shelf and just put them on each car as it was going down the assembly line. It's really annoying tracking down axles. I had to buy 3 axles that were listed as the axle I needed before I got the one I was looking for. Unless you go there in person and can identify the axles, assume the person who listed the axle (new, refurb, or used) doesn't know which axle it is. In the FSM, there is an axle chart (in section 4 I believe) use that to find the identification bands on the axle shaft, the shape of the inner joint cup, and the inner joint spline count. These are your general identification landmarks. For the interim, I'm sure the Rock Auto axles will work just fine. But once you get the car rolling, I'd be saving up for used OEM axles, new front struts, a set of 4x140 wheels, some wheel bearings, and strut mounts. Just my opinion but if you're even considering dropping the car to stock height, start locating parts ASAP. KYB struts can only be found easily shipped from Australia. So shipping is very expensive, plus the "old a** part" tax. You'd be looking at $700 for a pair including shipping. Strut mounts (again, KYB brand) are also very hard to find. And typically go for $40-$90 per mount. It'd be expensive to drop the car and give the suspension the attention it probably needs or will need soon. But it's easier on the car long-term and makes the parts struggle a little less complicated. Tldr: The Rock Auto axles are a good permanent solution for a "throw away" car but if you plan to keep it long term, I'd recommend going to stock suspension. Begin your hunt for the parts required to make that swap ASAP. Last call for parts was a decade ago, we're stumbling out on the end of a bartender's broom at this point.

WOW! I've been trying ot find a replacement driveshaft for my 2000 Legacy/Outback with automatic transmission. EVERYBODY seems to have them for a manual tranny, but not automatic or for a zillion other years - but the lists jump over year 2000! The only one I can find is Dorman at $603. YIKES! Any ideas other than a used one? I 'suppose' I could rebuild my existing one, but I don't know if the u-joints are staked and non-repairable (it's outside, I'm inside and lazy right now) Thanks!

have a look here: https://www.icarsoft.com/Article/s-269-269.html a reasoned step-wise diagnosis and treatment for your code

No clue what the lift combination is to be honest. It looks like whoever did the lift just put bigger struts in... that was one of the first things I looked for and I still haven't found blocks anywhere. The history of the vehicle is a bit of a mystery... the previous owner said they found it abandoned in a parkade. There was apparently already a lift on it at that point. I'll see if I can get you some measurements when I go to work on it next.

The old axles were aftermarket as well and even worse off than the new ones I put in. Not sure if they were longer or different than stock in some way as I didn't install them and they were already failed when I got the vehicle. 😕

I thought about dropping things back to stock but I'd love to leave the lift as is for now if I can. Can't seem to find the OEM parts anywhere since they've all been discontinued... might have to go with the RockAuto extreme articulation axles unless you might be able to share some sources for axles or good alternatives?

My 2005 Outback has about 148,000 miles and is AT. The P0638 only occurs after about an hour of highway driving. Symptoms are immediate loss of power. The car becomes can barely move itself and idle is rough. I then Turn the car Off and wait 30 seconds. When I start the car it will drive normally for 5-10 minutes before it happens again. If you drive it very moderately at 40mph it seems to not happen as frequently. Working it hard seems to bring it on more rapidly. I have read a common cause of this fault is a bad accelerator pedal. So I replaced that with no cure. Another possible cause is a bad Throttle Position Sensor, which is fully integrated into the throttle body. So I replaced the throttle body and it's GPS with a used throttle body. The replacement was faulty and the problem got much much worse. So I got a new Throttle Body and GPS for $125. Still no cure, and it went back to being a problem only occuring after about an hour of highway driving. Seems like another cause could be the ECM? Any suggestions?

Try replacing the coil pack. The one on our 2000 RX Liberty (EJ251) gave out at ~480,000km. This gave a jerky drive sensation and was most obvious under load. Initially it was random but got to the point that it would always do it under load. Higher load = worst cut out etc. And yes, MAP on these engines.

My daughter has a Legacy (automatic transmission) with about 180,000 miles on it. So the problem is very intermittent and has never occurred while I drive it. It seems this car has a MAP sensor instead of a MAF Sensor. There is no check engine light but a PO420 code occurrs from time to time. Poor mileage. Occasionally runs rough or stalls, hesitates, jerks and lunges. Does this sound like a failing MAP sensor? We already removed the throttle body and cleaned it.

I think we're just going to sell the car. Aside from not having a TPS, the engine runs well. Being in the PNW, hopefully we'll find some interest. Thanks to azdave and SuspiciousPizza for your advice.

What’s your lift combination with the heights/block size for the strut block, engine crossmember blocks and the gearbox crossmember blocks? What sort of springs are you running in the front end? I’m wanting to understand how your lift is possibly effecting your CV angles to max them out. Can you also measure the distance between the ground and the highest point on the arch of your mud guard/fender when the car is sitting naturally and then when jacking it up right at the point that the rubber starts to lift off the ground. This should measure your droop or downwards travel amount in the suspension.

Since turning doesn't make it worse, it would have to be the inner joints. What was wrong with your old axles, and do you still have them? You might try frankenaxles with your old inner joints and shafts, and your new outer joints, assuming the inners weren't bad (they rarely are) on your old ones.

From what my Parts Catalog says (and it only goes up to '90 so YMMV), the Loyale used a 95AC-23 axle (PN 23221GA373) which has 23 splines and a length between boots of 242mm. These axles are actually the shortest of all the OEM axles. You MIGHT (maybe, possibly, no guarantees) be able to get away with a longer OEM axle. The 87AC axles (PN 23221GA233) have a length of 257mm between boots. The 82AC axles (PN 23221GA244) have a length of 265mm between boots. You could gain up to 23mm in axle length with OEM axles which are better quality than modern production axles. Sorry I didn't really answer your question. Me personally, I'd drop the car to standard height and swap in used OEM axles. But that's just my opinion. Second option I'd personally go for is keep the lift, buy some 82AC axles and see if they work. Third option I'd go for is getting the Rock Auto extreme articulation axles. I'm sure they'd work, but for how long? And by that time would you be able to get them again? Going to stock gives you the most flexibility with parts and greater parts longevity. I'm beating the "keep it stock" drum pretty hard, but whatever you choose to do is your decision, I can only offer my opinion. :] P.S. looking for the right axles can be a major PITA. If you need alternative part numbers just shoot me a line.

Ok, my Subaru buddy came over today and immediately confirmed the most likely candidate is the CV's being maxed out with the lift. Not sure how the old ones survived but perhaps they were meant for a lift. Anyone know a good option for extreme articulation CV's? Looking at these off RockAuto but any other suggestions would be awesome! https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=13224045&cc=1270134&pt=2288&jsn=591 Cheers!

I'll just scrap the HG's and go out to my engine rebuilder to grab an extra set I had given them. Those are OEM gaskets anyways.

I second what Numbchux said about the single turbo conversion - it’s a very common conversion for the twin turbo “aids”. If you replace vacuum lines do this methodically - cut the old lines open once the new vac line is installed. You’re looking for restrictors known as “pills”. These need to be retained for the system to work properly. Otherwise the usual remains in terms of turbos and reliability. Harder you go the quicker things will need maintenance attentions and usually the wallet flogging.

A turbo beanie will probably suffice. Or you could fold up some sheet metal to do the same thing the original chimney did in the first place. I have an STi converted SF forester that’s a sleeper - built by a mate. This does not have a bonnet scoop, rather it sports a turbo beanie and a water to air intercooler. The paint on the bonnet is not effected and I dare say it’s seen more heat than your EA82t will ever generate.

Ooh, part of me says it’s not a good idea to back them off and go again on those head gaskets. The other part of me says go for it, they’ve not seen a heat cycle yet. Worst case scenario you pop a HG prematurely. It an EA82 and not too complicated at the end of the day - “just” your time and some money. Your call on replacing the HGs if you choose to back them off and inspect those bolts. Do a search looking for a post by General Disorder about doing this exact thing with reusing head gaskets. I can’t remember what he recommended.

It's 30 years old. It's only averaged about 1k miles per year, but it's traveled halfway around the world. Sitting is very hard on cars, depending on the environment. Being shipped across the pacific is very hard on cars. This is not going to be a turnkey car. The is going to be a labor of love (or money). Have something else to get you to work on time. There's nothing inherently wrong with the mechanicals of the EJ20H. Those are great heads, very difficult to warp. One of the better phase 1 shortblocks out there. But, the twin turbo systems are notoriously complicated. Using a nest of vacuum hoses and a bunch of solenoids to actuate all of that. Those hoses will likely be rotted and leaky. Good documentation on them is slim. Electronics are outdated, capacitors are likely leaking and causing a bunch of little issues. Anything rubber is dryrotted, anything greased is sticky. Many parts are shared with other models, some of those will still be available. Anything specific to that model with likely be very difficult to get. Convert to single turbo and a modern ECU, and it would probably be a great car.

Howdy! I've seen in the manual, and photos of other EA82Ts that they all have this heatshield/cooling funnel that shoots air from the bonnet of an XT right to the turbo. And I only noticed that was missing, just now. I assume this won't cause the car to explode if I don't have it, but I also assume that these are about as easy to find as a needle in a haystack. Does anyone have any recommendations for a 3rd party option? Will any fitting heat shield or sock suffice? Or is it even necessary, since the turbos not exactly the largest one out there. Thanks in advance!

I bought a beautiful 96 Legacy GTB 31k miles two months ago. the interior is immaculate. The outside is very good. zero rust. What I could not see with my eyes just got me good, I took it to one of the best Subaru enthusiast mechanics in NJ and they told me it needs a head gasket. I called a bunch of other shops in multiple states nearby and found much cheaper but in talking to one mechanic they said the engine is very reliable. Most others said the engine will keep having issues with gaskets, warped heads etc. I am trying to get an impartial view on the EJ20H motor/turbo/trans and all other costly repairs. Also, most if not all said if you need spare parts you are likely done for, which i understand but i’d like an impartial to see what other GTB owners have seen. May have to sell it which I hate to do bc I love the car but I won’t be able to ride out several $5-$10k repairs.

Sounds good. I actually installed the heads last night but I think I'm going to undo the head bolts and redo it. The front upper corner head bolts on either side went in a little crunchy and my gut is telling me to redo it. Those two head bolts were extremely caked in... Something. A brownish white powder that looked like instant 3-in-1 coffee. I had the heads cleaned but those bolt holes had some grit left in them. I missed seeing it until those bolts went in crunchy and I inspected the holes. All the bolts were cleaned and the threads were chased and blown clean. When I redo the heads then I'll make sure to oil under the bolt heads and washers. Shouldn't take too long, just undo the bolts, clean the bolt two bolt holes, re-clean all the threads, and torque to spec. Should I let the heads sit torqued for a day before retorque? :]