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Verify the firing order: 1324. Do a compression test. Check valve clearance.

Thanks for everyone's input, I really appreciate it. As an update, I tightened up the carrier plate till it was really tight using a hammer and modified large screwdriver. Had the car lifted, wheel off the ground and kept turning it, wiggling the inner CV up and down. It feels about right but the other side CV is a little too loose for me. It also doesn't appear to be in the same position where it was when I loosened it. I planned to talk to the local subaru mechanic about him finishing the job however he was killed in a motorcycle accident about 10 days ago, may Joe rest in peace. Moving forward, I plan to make a tool and drive it. About once a week, will check things out and maybe try adjusting it. I have this next week off and hope to talk to a retired subaru mechanic about this. I am curious about what the shop manual says about adjusting this? I imagine there are dial indicator tolerances and other measurable 'things' to get it perfect. The reality, this car has 170k miles and isn't in great shape but serves an important need as local transportation around our small town for my HS daughter. We hope to keep an eye on this and I may find another mechanic I trust. The nearest dealership is in the next state, 2 hours away and they will screw you every chance they can, I hate doing any business with them. The best option may be to purchase a replacement transaxle from the wrecking yard? I don't think I want my daughter taking this car to college next year and be 6 hours away if she needs a vehicle rescue. Thanks again and if you have any other suggestions or thoughts, please let me know - my mind reading skills are bad, just ask my wife. Ken

> Can it really just be unbolted with control arm left on car? It can, I'd remove the ball joint from the knuckle to relieve spring pressure. Then just the rear bushing can be undone and replaced by hand. Otherwise you might need to use a jack to push things back up to bolt them in. Loosen the big nut while it's in the car if you don't have an impact wrench. Ideally you want to tighten the big nut last while the car is sitting on the ground. I don't, it's been fine.

You can try your old cap BUT...Sounds like bad head gaskets to me.

Ive never heard of this being an issue. Without the power assist vacuum line the brake will operate about the same as trying to push a brick through the floor when properly bled. That meaning the brakes are only as good as your leg strength. @abentz The rear brakes may need adjusting but this isn't the root cause of the issue. If you've swapped the calipers or renewed the seals, it can help to fill the calipers with brake fluid as best you can prior to install. You definitely need a second person that doesn't mind doing the boring task of listening to your calls as you bleed the brakes OR use one of those self bleeder kits. You've still got loads of air in the system or you need to bleed the master cylinder. Cheers Bennie

25D's are difficult to get the air out of. You have to pull the bleeder out of the passenger top of the radiator to let out the air as you fill. Then they typically work fine. You MUST use an OEM thermostat, and quality water pump that has close enough tolerances between blades and housing to efficiently clear the air pockets. Being this is a 96/97 25D there is also an extremely high head gasket failure rate and the more you mess around with it and overheat it, the more likely that becomes. It also helps, once you get it warmed up, to use a fill funnel to get the level higher than the engine bay, and then rev it up to 5k rpm repeatedly till the thermostat opens and the air pocket clears. Make sure you get the oil up to temp before you start revving the beans out of it. That's how we clear the air on all of them. 50% of the time it works 100% of the time. GD

Got similar from US or other newspapers same era?

I would love a new rear glass gasket for my hatch, but I doubt we could find 50 people to order them. anyone else?