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Use an impact. GD

Hi everyone! i'm a locksmith in NY and an older Subaru enthusiast, i've had 2 Loyales, a 91 and 92, in the past and a 98 Impreza (unfortunately none now, but i'll be back!). anyway, enough about me...i'm seeing if anyone needs keys made for their locks? or needs their locks rekeyed to match ignition or whatever...i know a lot of you probably have different keys for door/ignition/trunk/glovebox etc. after replacing broken parts. if you're sick of that, let me know. if you mail me a lock, i can rekey it to a specific key. you can send either door or ignition locks and a key that you want to work in that lock, and i will set it up for you and send it back. probably for about $35 including shipping. if it requires more, i will let you know ahead of time and give you the option to just send it back without working on it for free. i can also do the same for most other locks, not just Subaru. Glovebox locks will require another lock if you want them to match. the glovebox only has 4 tumblers in it. the other locks have 8 or 10, depending on year and model, so i can't make a working key for your other locks based on the glovebox. you can also send a lock that you don't have keys for, and i will make you a key and send it back. that will probably run about $25-35. turnaround is usually within 1 day after i receive it. just get in touch and we'll figure it out. i'll let you know what you need to send. Paypal, Money orders, Zelle, even checks are ok (but you will have to wait until the check clears) ADMINS: if this is in the wrong section, please feel free to move it or whatever needs doing

you can use an impact to 'loosen' the nut - if it accidentally comes off - put it back on. (assumes weight of car holding things together - I suppose there is some minute risk the strut shaft could drop ????) better to take the assembly out and get the compressors on it as said above. You're gonna do that anyway. for reassembly, I had to rig a deep socket with large vice grips and a cut-off 6mm allen wrench and a 6mm socket with adapters. it was crazy but it worked. pay attention to top perch orientation - there's an arrow or center hols or something that must face the fender side. Also, put the top spacer/washer with the narrow side UP to contact inner race of mount bearing.

you need to take the strut assembly OFF the car.. you do not do it with them still in the car. there are 3 smaller nuts on the top, around that large one, and the 2 large bolts at the knuckle that need to come off to remove the strut assembly. once you have the assembly off the car, you will need spring compressors to compress the spring enough to remove the nut on top to change the strut out. Do NOT try to do this job without the proper tools. That is how people get hurt.

You can’t have a MPFI in a SPFI vehicle unless you do a major wiring change. You might have a block that was originally MPFI but is now fitted with carb/SPFI heads. If one lifter is ticking, I’d leave it as annoying as it can be you could spend ages chasing it and end up wanting to burn the car at some point. Or EJ’ing it. Here’s my lifter tick. It was odd. Came on suddenly, did this for two weeks then went quiet again. Maybe because it was when I decided to do the EJ conversion, then it went quiet when it realised I was serious I haven’t looked back since, other than at this video. I’d like to do a repeat video with the EJ engine but that space is now covered in wrecks... Cheers Bennie