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Did you use your voodoo can? I've got a Chinese tea can - I threw a bunch of dead (computer) chips, bolts, and chicken bones in and glued the lid on. If a problem is sufficiently baffling I shake the voodoo can over it and it's sometimes mysteriously solved without further frustration. I trust that's what you did.

yeah loosen all the bolts , then lower the suspension until it's supported about 85~95% by jacks. Just a bit of weight down. Then tighten all the link ends. I had to do this on my wife 03 LL Bean Outback to fit a 1-1/2" HDPE lift. Beyond that, I think it is the short link. It hits near a 45 degree angle and begins moving more in than down.......which then causes bind at the forward trailing arm bushing. Can't move in more , therefore, can't move down. And if it is forced down, like with spacer lifted shock, forcing it down it is pulling hard laterally on that front, main trailing arm bushing. That's why I'm doing this link extension. And also for protecting axle. Finalized link brackets and simultaneously added CV/Link protector sliders today. IMG_3473 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3471 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3472 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3474 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

Well the time has come, after spending well over $3000 on Ruby in the last couple of months, finally get her back on the road to only have 2 days of trouble free motoring, it seems I'm making no progress. Its time to let Ruby die a peaceful death. The last couple of months have just been one problem after another with her, I fix one thing, she breaks somewhere else. At the moment she has developed another REALLY bad vibration, seems non related to the original vibration that I set out to fix. And this one is so severe I'm not even game to drive her anymore and I'm out of ideas as to what it could possibly be. Everything has been replaced in the front end, nothing has helped. But its not all bad news... The plan... Take Ruby off the road permanently and do a full restoration job on her, replace every nut and bolt in her and anything that can be rebuilt, will be rebuilt or replaced with new. Remove any rust or dents, straighten the panel work out and a new coat of jam to finish her off. Hopefully within 12 months, Ruby 2.0 will be back on the road and be better than brand new. It looks like my nice low mileage 1290 R is about to start racking up a few extra km's this year Not that the low mileage (1400km's since Jan 2017) has been my choice, stupid bloody job, if they didn't throw so much money at me a week I'd go find something else to do. Not that that seems to work anyway, I've quit 3 times now in the last 2 years and they keep offering me more money to stay. Also on the upside, the north Queensland trip planned for later this year will now be done on 2 wheels instead of 4 so I can't wait for that, 4 weeks of touring Cape York and the gulf on the bike is going to be awesome!!! Cheers, Al

Mine is missing an eye. But I still love it.

Thanks for the link heartless. I'll look at the schematic.

Mitsuboshi

What do you mean “cool like yours”?? They’re all cool! Rallyru, I love how your MY wagon makes a lifted Impreza look small!! Cheers Bennie

Oh yeah, that camber and axle angles look just fine. Nothing to be improved on there. Oh except for terrible positive camber, and 30+ degree angles on those axles. They are bottomed against the edge of the cup! FWIW, the problem breaking axles is on uptravel, when the wheel has lots of weight and traction. At droop like shown, there is not really any traction to transfer power so that's not where the breaky breaky happens. And the axle shafts hang "ungaurded" just asking to be backed into rocks on rough terrain. Been there, done that. Thanks for posting pics that so beautifully illustrate all the problematic stuff that happens with long travel EA81 set-ups. I see too that your lift blocks use all right angles, with no diagonal bracing, and especially doesn't look like your torsion tube is cross braced. You will have issues with that soon enough,. If you don't your not wheeling like I wheel my car. MY EA81 is not my DD. And I didn't build it to look cool. I built it to wheel. Been doin so for years now. I know that of which I speak. As for the shock mounts.......I've got that covered......continue watching the progress of this thread and you will see. I have previously reinforced those mount points, tie them into the body rail below and above. I've got Long travel Bilsteins punched 3" up into the trunk. mounts are brace in a triangulated pattern, and tied together with a crossbar in the trunk that serves as a hi-lift jack mount Believe me, the mounting area is strong enough and built for a long travel already. I would ask that if you want to further talk about EA81 rear suspension and how YOU think it should be setup......Please start a thread. Your car is an awesome build. And for fun, most of the time, the EA81 set-up you've got is great.....your's is about as good as it can get......but that's the point.....it's as good as it can be, and I am ready for better..... I'm sure the OP would appreciate keeping this one focused on his Outback projects. One or 2 post with a comparative point is fine, but we are getting now into thread jack territory. I only posted in here becasue I am modifying the same type of set up as him.

Just going through my old photos, found these 2 First on is my families 78 4x4 wagon. This was taken when I was almost 2, on road trip from California to Pennsylvania. IMG_0383 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And this one, I am about 6.....Taken at a horse show with my Uncle Bob the horse trainer. I had never noticed, but someones sweet brown hatch Photobombed us in the background! not our car, and probably one of on;y a few Subarus in Ocala, Florida at the time!!! IMG_0386 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr