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Check subarupartsdeal.com, but my guess is not extremely likely. Parts are becoming very scarce for these vehicles, especially drivetrain components. If you are only using it for the lemons race, rev it up and just skip 2nd altogether. Lol.

Legitimacy confirmed by a known Forum participant "at another forum" who happens to be a salesman at a dealership in Oklahoma. He also mentioned there is a push on to get older cars done as they are at greatest risk. I'm gonna try to schedlule the work soon but at a dealership. Better in case there's an issue afterwards.

Hey Everyone, I haven't posted on here for years and thought I would share my build progress and findings. The end goal of this build is to have a fun autocross machine and weekend canyon carver. To start off this car was given to me as a grad present from my grandmother 10 years ago and I daily drove it for many years before tinkering with it. The car is an '86 fwd coupe with a 5 speed. This is essentially what the car looked like when I received it at only 80,000 kms. Currently the car sits at 275,000 kms. For the past 4ish years I have been autocrossing the car on and off while making changes to improve the handling and grip. I feel this chassis does have potential and certainly has light weight(2100lbs currently) and a low center of gravity going for it. I have been asked why not jump to a newer platform such as a BRZ/FRS for autocross but the challenge of making this a competitive car seems to keep me hooked and will be far more satisfying in the end. Up until now I have made several undocumented changes to the car such as a Weber carb swap with a wideband o2 for tuning, 6 lug conversion, 15x8 -19 wheels with 225/45r15 BFG Rival S tires, Ground Control coilover sleeves with stock struts up front and KYB AGX NB Miata rears, 2002 WRX seats, slotted rotors with semi metallic pads, Momo Prototipo steering wheel, RX body kit and Datsun 240z fender flares. The car has been like this for the past couple of years but it is time to make some changes. Addco 7/8" rear sway bar added to reduce understeer and increase lift-off oversteer for rotation. Fabing up seat rails with original brackets to fit bucket seat. Omp First R bucket seat fitted to keep me in place. I have always struggled to find a decent suspension setup while maintaining stock hubs and I have finally come up with the answer. The BMW e30 chassis has the same diameter front strut tube at 45mm. This allows you to fit a BC Racing coilover weld-in kit designed for an e30 on the front along with GV Impreza coilovers for the rear. The folks over at BC Racing allowed me to place an order with the BMW fronts and the Subaru rears. If anyone else decides to go this route the part numbers are I-04-BR for the front and F-08-BR for the rear *You will have to use Impreza camber plates up front as the BMW bolt pattern is different up top and the stock shock mounts out back*. Since this car is no longer a daily driver I decided on 10k springs up front and 12k springs out back. All you have to do is chop off the factory strut, slide it into the coilover base and weld it in. I decided to chop an additional inch off the coilover side to get the desired ride height. Here is the finished product with GC Impreza camber plates up top and helper springs added to get the desired ride height. As you can see this setup allows you to gain much needed camber/castor adjustment as well as dampening/rebound adjustment. This is how the car currently sits with the new BC Racing suspension in. Next on the list is 10" wide slicks on a 13x10 6 lug wheel. I am currently having Diamond Racing wheels built to spec and will post an update when they arrive. Now that the suspension is in order and a racing slick setup is on the way chassis flex is going to have to be addressed. I picked up this roll bar kit locally off craigslist for an s10 pickup and it seems to be a pretty close fit. I have begun the planning process and will post more updates as the progress continues. Thanks for reading and feel free to ask any questions regarding the build. Cheers!

I don't know if this is allowed but I have listed my car on a popular auction site and wanted to share with this community. I have it listed for auction because I really don't know what something like this is worth these days. "1984 Subaru GL Hatchback with 125940 miles. 4 speed manual transmission with selectable 4wd Hi/Lo. Weber carb conversion, 2 sets of wheels/tires (winter & standard). Aftermarket stereo with subs behind seats. Has rare cargo cover in hatch area and factory AC (R22). Interior is in great shape. Its an old car and has its quirks but has been very very dependable and low maintenance. This is my daily driver so the miles will go up slightly. " Please inquire for questions. Located in SE Washington.

Who said the EJ205 is more reliable? They spin bearings and blow headgaskets (yes, I had one) as well as the next one. I'd go look on NASIOC for more info as that EJ25 is essentially the same as the '06+ WRX EJ255 (slightly higher CR), which I would prefer. If that XT has the 4EAT you'll want the displacement as the Auto's suck the life out of the turbo'd engine. I had an '02 WRX AND an '04 FXT w/the 4EAT, and it was 7.5 seconds 0-60. People w/the 5-speed manual could do it <6 seconds. RE: the non-avcs EJ20, You'll need to either use RomRaider/ECUflash or get a Cobb AP to tune out/around the AVCS...I'd check w/a tuner BEFORE you pull the trigger on that, as I'm NOT an expert. Also, a tune can help w/the crappy stock tune and performance w/the 4EAT. I don't know your budget, but if you got the car cheap and want to keep it, I'd get a new shortblock for about $2K. Rebuild your heads and assuming YOU can do the labor, you'll have a fun car for cheap. I really don't trust any used Subaru turbo engine (except the old EJ22T), plus you never know how hard it was driven/maintained. Ps. That stock TD04 is likely toast, too. Get another turbo (VF39/43/48 from an STI) as an upgrade. NASIOC has those, too.

We need pics!! Cheers Bennie

After tinkering away for a few more weeks I figured Id post an update. I decided to swap the chassis bushings with poly Superpro bushes as it wouldn't make much sense running slicks with 34 year old bushings. The only bushings I was unable to find in the aftermarket were the transmission cross-member and the rear sub-frame bushings. Here are the part numbers from the ebay seller. I don't own a press but this tool was a life saver. It might be from launching on sticky tires at autocross but I seem to go through a CV axle a year and find the Cardone axles to be junk. I found this "heavy duty" set on Rock Auto from TrakMotive so we'll see how they fare this year. A rotor freshen up and new CV's, bushings, and semi metallic pads in... along with a power rack with lines looped as a manual conversion. While I was at it I decided to replace the engine and transmission mounts. In the past I've had problems with the exhaust heating up the steering rack boots causing them to crack so I decided to pick up some DEI header wrap to mitigate the problem. As you can see I had some leaky rocker cover gaskets that left their mark... rust prevention anyone? I've had great success using Remflex header gaskets on my small block chevy and wanted to give them a try on the GL manifold... this part number fits perfectly. The custom Diamond racing steelies showed up so I had the slicks mounted. The specs are 13x10 5.5" backspacing and they seem to just clear everything inboard with no rubbing. I think the setup looks pretty tough and can't wait to take them for a spin on course... til next time!

I cut holes in the top of the transmission tunnel just like on the EJ car, but the driveshaft rubbed on them under hard acceleration (it was a one-piece shaft, so that could have been part of it). If I were to do it again, I would just have them run straight through the bulkhead under the rear seat, as there's a lot more room for them.

It's the cables you are having trouble with? I used cables and a handle from a first gen Legacy with rear disc, and was able to get it to work decently. Front-pull handle and cables will definitely not reach.