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awesome, glad you got it, that's the point! no tow, have a party! you're welcome...not that my suggestions probably helped but collectively we appreciate hearing you got it!

I hope you get that pump/battery issue sorted now. I bet you were driving around like before you got stuck in the car park! Cheers Bennie

the lower connector drawings are the correct pin orientations... the wiring diagram connectors are laid out only for ease of drawing them.. do NOT use them for pin orientation.

You have changed the coil and it is still dropping spark on 1 and 2 so check the inputs to the coil and where they come from. Uncover the ECM and identify the two wires and pins 18 and 19 on connector B137 so you are ready to test them. With the key off, remove connector B137 from the ECM and look for corrosion on pins 18 and 19. I have not seen corrosion on those pins, but anything is possible. Replace the connector. Use a volt meter and compare the voltage on Pins 1 and 4 of the coil plug (the two outside pins) when the engine is running normal and again when it is misfiring. When misfiring, there will be a difference in voltage on one of those pins. When it is misfiring check the voltage at the ECM connector B137 Pins 18 and 19. If the voltages on the ECM pins read the same as on the coil, then the ECM is at fault. If they are different then the problem is the wire between the two connectors. I don't know if the difference in voltage will be a high or low, since I don't know if they use NPN or PNP transistors in the coil and ECM.

Thank you for the replies! I capped all. And it ran fine.

torque bind. all your tire sizes, diameters need to match. otherwise you need a new viscous coupler. it's in the rear of the transmission but is done without removing the trans. remove exhaust, driveshaft, remove rear housing of trans, swap in new VC. $300-$700 labor plus the part depending on your locale/shop.

Axles. make absolutely sure they’re fully seated into the trans. Aftermarket axles are garbage. I don’t know how many bad and failed aftermarket axles I’ve seen.lost count years ago. It’s nearly routine if you’re around even a small volume of Subaru axles. I’ve written a lot about them if you want to search here under my username. Or search “aftermarket axles garbage” or “trash” and you should begin to step into the light Buy two front Used OEM axles and reboot them. I’d offer to ship you two but they’re so cheap it’s not worth it. Yards have them for $15-$35 each. Other than being lazy, which I do understand, but there’s no reason not to use OEM axles in this situation. of course you’ll want to verify but it would be ZERO surprise for this to be the axle. Oh but you replaced it already - Yawn - still no surprise. 4 in a row would probably be surprising. Two - not even close Consider yourself lucky they haven’t just blown apart while driving - I’ve seen that multiple times two on brand new axles. That doesn’t even surprise me now. Trash. There’s a couple other things it could be but you haven’t described any other symptoms that point to them, they’re less common and more expensive so rule out the axles first...and you’ll be done.

WELP. I love when its a really dumb solution that I can only smack my own self for.... I accidentally swapped the return and feed fuel hoses underneath the fuel filter.... Was a great feeling and a slap once i figured that out. Ford fuel pump is very loud and my car has been driving so-so since its been up today. My battery is draining due to the new pump and probably just a failing battery (after being subjected to 30+ tries to start the car to no avail). Tonight ended with the GF and I stranded in the grocery store parking lot. Tried to jump the battery with my mobile jumper pack and also tried jumping from a car but the battery does not want to even keep a charge. Hopefully new battery tomorrow changes everything. Thank you to everyone who helped me figure out my issues. VERY quick and insightful responses. Now i know to take it slow and take pictures before I tear everything up.

Go to the following web site and save the Factory Service Manual - "1983 Subaru EA81.pdf" file. Put the cursor on the link and click the right mouse button. In the menu that pops up, move the cursor to "Save Target As" and click the left mouse button. A window will open and you can select or make a folder to save it in on your pc. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Old Models--/ There is a lot of stuff on that site. When you click on a folder and then want to go back, click on Parent Directory. You mentioned brakes, they are in Chapter 10. It's a long document so the scroll bar will be small. Move it about half way down. The page numbers at the bottom of each page will be 10-1 etc. I use Acrobat Reader DC to view pdf files. It's free.

Aftermarket wires are often problematic, particularly low cost ones, I’ve seen them cause misfires right out of the box on EJ engines. I will use zero aftermarket parts for plugs wires and coils. id install a used OEM coil before buying a new aftermarket. some people think aftermarket is fine, I know plenty of people like that. If that’s you then go through the FSM exactly step by step and see where it leads. using the cat inefficiency code as a diagnostic tool is probably low efficacy.

False. Aftermarket wires are KNOWN to be problematic, causing all sorts of weird issues, most commonly random misfires. Plugs should be NGK, wires should be OEM or NGK only. Any other brand is suspect

Aftermarket coils are crap. Likely your problem. In fact a 1/2 misfire on a wasted spark ignition system is going to be a coil 99.99% of the time - since that's prettymuch the only thing shared by 1 and 2. Get an OEM coil. 100k is a good run for a coil. Also (OEM) coil failures are typically a result of plug gap being too large or the wires being shot. Anything the increases the secondary ignition voltage requirement will cause more heat in the coil and kill it sooner. GD