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It's completely irrelevant. You can run either. Nothing bad is going to happen (unless you mix them). Subaru switched (to OAT coolant) because everyone else is switching - if anything the blue coolant eats the plastic radiators quicker (which you should change soon as it's beyond it's fail-by date - we have seen a huge rash of 11's with blown radiators due to the blue coolant softening the plastic). I would run the green, install a new radiator (and whatever component is leaking coolant), new OEM hoses, and call it a day. GD

The overflow reservoir does not get filled. It should be about 1/3 to 1/2 depending on system pressure. Head gaskets on that model leak oil, not coolant. It's really not a matter of if, but when they start leaking. Had you done your research before buying you would know that. The dealership is THE WORST place you can have the gaskets done. You can expect them to leak again in 20-30k. They use the wrong gasket and insufficient cleaning / surface prep. You are likely stuck with it, unless you are able to return it, or pay a proper Subaru specialist to do it right with the turbo model gaskets. GD

Just scored one

Thank you Dwayne! I'll keep an eye out. Also, I was able to get my hands on a parts catalog. THAT IS RIGHT LADIES AND GENTLEMEN, I have a 1980 and 1981 Subaru Parts catalog from Subaru. I'll look up that part number and see if it might be close to mine! I also have a box under my driver seat that looks similiar. I'll let you know! Thank you!!!!!!!

And look for and/or feel for the countersink in the axle and drive the pin out in that direction and re-insert it into that same countersink. It’s easier when you don’t fight tapers. Yes , that’s happened to this old man back when , where the punch was too thin but not such a disaster as I didn’t drive it hard and was able to yank it out after only minimal cussing. So naturally I have proper size punches in my box now. Enjoy !

Thank you all for your replies and suggestions. Well this turned out to be kinda strange. The problem is solved. I used the diagram in a Chilton manual for cylinder to coil connections, however, that diagram is wrong. Bennie, thank you! You set me on the path to check and recheck everything and that is how I came across the problem with the plug wires going to the wrong connections on the coil. Once I connected them properly it started right up! Thanks again! I appreciate all the help and suggestions!

Sure thing. I've wondered the same thing and looked before so i knew i could find the source quickly rather than me repeating it.

check the elbow hose that goes from the pump to the water bypass pipe that feeds the throttle body. O.