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1 hour labor, 1 hour alignment. It's really easy but the press fit end getting stuck and lock nut and removing it without a special tool (or buying/renting the tool) can be troubling if you're not well experienced with tight fasteners. I can't see yours but that lock nut and the end joint press fit - can be crusty rusty in the northeast and cause a bit of a wrestling match without good tools and torch. I'd inspect the rack boot really well first or have a new steering rack boot on hand just in case - removing a quarter century old boot might render it unusable to reinstall. That's the most dangerous part on the entire vehicle, I'd use Subaru only for tie rods. I would quite literally install a used Subaru OEM before an aftermarket. If you get a Subaru one too it's probably easier to ensure alignment is the same by counting turns...assuming the parts are the same/equivalents. I've replaced subaru inner tie rods without removing the outer tie rod. Loosen the lock nut, turn the inner tie rod out so it comes out of the outer tie rod (thereby skipping the need to remove it). Remove boot. Use inner tie rod tool to swap tie rods. Literally don't have to remover any bolts or nuts - just the boot and tie rod itself. Count the number of turns of the tie rod and install the new one to the same depth.

Factory 15" wheels will not clear the factory brakes on that car. You can swap to the 276mm rotors and matching calipers. You can grind the calipers (I've done this twice). Or you can use a gravel-style aftermarket 15" wheel (Team Dynamic, Braid, Method, Sparco, etc. etc.).