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Passed its WOF at Crowesport! Registered and insured, ready to drive. https://www.facebook.com/541010192618217/posts/5117505958301928/?sfnsn=mo

Correct, just take it apart. Be careful to remember where everything goes of course. If you're new to this, take pictures of things, just in case. You can turn the cams and crank any way you want, the pistons and valves cannot meet. This is true for the EA82s, and a certain range of early EJ engines. Newer stuff, not so. IF any bolts are stuck - which is pretty likely, unless the car has been in a desert environment most of it's life, the best way to NOT break them off is this - Run it until it's at normal operating temp. Shut it down. Immediately go to the 6 intake manifold bolts and carefully work them loose. Same with the EGR pipe between the head and intake on the passenger's side, behind the intake. This helps with any of the other bolts also - the cam tower bolts, head bolts. But those will take too long to get to. A space heater and a heat gun will heat the block, but slower than running it. I don't use a torch, the temp is too high, and the heat needs to be DEEP in the aluminum, not on the surface or the bolt. Intake gaskets and the metal reinforced o rings for the oil channel to the cam - dealer only! DO NOT use the crap intake gaskets from fel pro. I've had good luck with Fel pro head gaskets.