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I am looking for a good home for my Brat. There are some local folks that say they are interested and I wanted to give them and everybody here dibs before I got serious and put it online. I suppose the price is a little negotiable but I'm not sure how negotiable. I've got plenty of pictures to eventually post online if needed. I would REALLY like to thank everybody here because you all have saved my bacon more than once with this Brat. If you have any questions let me know. FOR SALE $10,800 1983 Subaru Brat Four speed manual transmission with dual range four wheel drive. Runs great. 131,000 miles on the chassis. A real classic car that is fun to drive. Reliable enough for daily driver or for a road trip. I am moving out of the country and can’t take it with me. The Good: • Has only minor rust. • Includes removable truck cap. • Has 4 inch lift with 15 inch rims (13 inch is stock). • Rebuilt engine with less than 3000 miles. • Stock carburetor has been replaced with aftermarket Weber. • Includes tow bar, mount, and lights so it can be easily towed. • Some spare parts are included. The Bad: • The rear shocks need to be replaced. • The interior overhead light does not work. • The A/C does not work and needs two new hoses made. • The rally lights need to be wired up. • The reverse lights need to be wired up. • The 4WD indicator lights need to be wired up. The Ugly: • Need to use a button instead of ignition key to start. • Transmission requires some technique for a couple gears. • Some exterior emblems, badges, and trim need to be refurbished. • The minor rust needs to be dealt with soon. james at nontrivial dot org

I live in a very VERY small community where people drive short amounts, maybe 1-2 miles per trip without warming up their engine. Some residents leave for 9 months of the year before coming back to do the same amount of driving. I've had about a dozen so far come to the shop with fuel related issues, usually rust deposits that make their way into the fuel injectors. Additives are a tough sell for me as far as gasoline engines goes, I wouldn't bother pouring one in *unless* your fuel tank is below 1/2 and you plan to leave the machine parked for a year. Only then would I pour in a methanol based alcohol (known as HEET in the US). The purpose is to help absorb moisture that will accumulate In the tank during storage... I've had one customer that did this excessively and the alcohol content eventually became too much for the engine to manage and burn on its own. If you do need to drive the machine every couple/few weeks, it shouldn't be an issue. keep the fuel tank topped off on every other drive, and forget additives unless you know it wont be used for a long period of time. Gasoline does degrade, but from your use case it sounds like that shouldn't be too much of an issue. More importantly if, during the times you *are* driving it, as long as the car gets to operating temperature and it gets some small amount of highway driving it should be A-OK! Otherwise, keep It stored. I've seen engines that slowly accumulate moisture from short drive cycles that they are effectively 20%ish water in their engine blood, no good.

Doesn't matter now but I've cut them off my personal cars and installed regular fuel hose.

Looks like a similar setup as the VT commodores use, most likely common across many GM models since then. To remove this I use a silicone gun nozzle cut down to fit the fuel line size, with a slit cut down one side to get it on the fuel line and up into that joint to release it. That is one very clean top of the fuel pump! Cheers Bennie