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Thanks for all the advice on this. Good to have someone else looking over my shoulder making sure to at least warn me when I'm doing something I shouldn't. Yes, we're just using these as transfer pumps. One for each direction since they all seem to have a check valve built in, the only reversible ones I can find are pretty expensive. 14ga seems overkill for 5A. I use 16ga for almost everything. Will take a closer look at the ABS wires for sure, I like the idea of just using them for power and then grounding the other terminal of the pumps. Will probably see what other wires are running back there we're no longer using too. On the topic of wiring, any suggestions on a relay/fuse good for 80+ amps? Want to put both the pusher fans on the secondary fan circuit. Figure I'll switch the big relay I add with the stock wiring/relay. Those fans pull almost 30A each (over 30A when submerged in water apparently). Planning on putting both the puller fans on the primary fan circuit, they are small and don't draw as much so I should be good there. Currently have one of each on each circuit on 30A fuses.

I have not seen anything officially saying one way or the other. But I would also bet interference. Even the 2.2 went interference in '97ish. That said, I see the FSM has a specific note to use caution installing the timing belt on a 2.5, as incorrect timing could cause piston to valve contact, and there is no such note in the 3.0 timing chain section.... I don't think I've seen or known of one break a chain. I've heard timing chain noise several times before due to damaged/worn guides and/or tensioners. Not that it isn't possible, but I'd be highly skeptical that it just broke without making a bunch of noise. What Cam sensor code? P0340 is for cam sensor circuit, indicating a wiring issue or failed sensor, P0341 indicates good signal but out of time. I've had engines attempting to start with bad sensor data sound strange while cranking. If it broke on the highway, the valves are already bent. It'll turn over nicely now. Before you touch those cover bolts, definitely do a compression test. If it fails that, I would drop the exhaust and look up the ports at the valves you can see (IIRC the front valves are hard to see through the single exhaust ports), and then crank it again to see if you can hear the compression blowing out the exhaust. If you have cylinders with no compression, but the offending valve cover and check to see if the buckets move freely and smoothly. While a stuck valve won't prevent a bucket from moving all the way out, there won't be any spring pressure on it. I believe you can see the bank 2 chain through the oil filler cap. Drop the oil into a clean pan and look for debris. Cut open the filter for the same. I would expect to see considerable metal in the oil if the chain has been failing. Maybe even drop the lower pan and look for bigger pieces of debris. I have an 01 H6 with no compression on cylinder 3. It all blows out the exhaust. I removed the valve cover and can move the valve buckets/springs freely with a prybar, resistance and movement feels identical on all 6 exhaust valves on that side (I believe if the valve wasn't closing all the way, the spring/bucket would not return all the way). It will still run, just super rough. I believe it to be a burned valve. And I will almost certainly swap in a used engine before I bother pulling everything apart enough to replace a valve. I have a couple known good high mileage engines. Or maybe try to get a JDM, although those are a lot less common/cheap than they used to be.