edrach

It's about 1/8" steel; I didn't have it on the Impreza when I thumped the oil pan pretty hard at the Brooklyn Rallycross; luckily no apparent damage although I will have to pull and replace the oil pan one of these days. I built this to get me through until I got a "real" skidplate installed. It's the one that came off an EA82 wagon and I have hit that occasionally when I owned my '86. This is not intended for a "real" sump guard, but it's better than not having anything there. I'm a little surprised that Subaru didn't install a stock version on the Legacy and Impreza like they did on the Loyale series.

I finally bought the real thing from Primitve Racing in Tigard, OR (www.get-primitive.com) to protect the underside of my 1994 Impreza. However, before I got that, I modified the sump guard from an EA82 wagon to fit on my Impreza. Drill two clearance holes for an 8mm metric bolt 1-3/16" back from the front lip and approximately 3/4" from either edge (approximate is just that, what's important is that the two new holes are exactly 13" apart). I took the two bolts at the rear and turned them around and bolted them in place pointing downward. Attach the modified sump guard at the rear with two 8mm nuts and at the front with two 8mm bolts. It doesn't do a thing to protect the exhaust pipes but will protect your oilpan moderately well. This might be useful to archive in the USRM.

Hard to make out, but is this the Mt. Washington on Vancouver Island, BC?

Odd, your Harbor Freight link takes me to the website of the Ministry of Commerce of the the People's Republic of China.

Yes, they are very nice; great tires too. Thanks for letting me borrow them!

You're right; superallyroo (Matt) is the 4th pic from the left in the top row. That'll teach me to read the headings.

Speaking of hydraulic tensioners; they can be re-used. With a strong vise and patience you can squeeze it back together and hold it in place for the next belt service (I use a piece of coathanger wire). Just squeeze it slowly--it can't be rushed--and make sure your release wire is pulled upwards and not down.

Finally some pics of the event. http://www.historicbrooklyntavern.com/images/RC06/index.htm Nice shots of #023 (qman), #044 (me:) ), and XSNRG in his white RX. What's a RallyCroser?

Since your engine is non-interference, there wouldn't be any engine damage if the belt broke or slipped unexpectedly. However, the engine would stop suddenly; not a nice happening in the middle of rush hour traffic on I-5. You should be safe for a bit since it's likely you'll start getting CELs warning you that something is imminent. If you do push it to 120K, consider replacing the water pump since it's not likely to last much longer, let alone to the next belt change interval.

Good luck with it; like I said mail order is only a day away, but if you can get a local one for close to the price of mail order, go for it.

Sorry about my rant. But after four EA81 wagons and three gen2 Brats (and one issue with my '86 wagon), I've been down this road so many times and the end result has always been to install a new radiator. My success with used radiators and back flushing the system has been zero so I just just get a new one after the easy things (pump and thermostat) have been eliminated. A new radiator never failed to fix the overheating problem. And I never bought a double row radiator; not really needed unless you want the added capacity for a turbo motor.

Too much information. KISS....keep it simple stupid. Symptom is classic for a clogged/old radiator. Everything else that might contribute to the problem has already been done. Change the radiator!

This link will redirect you to scoobymods: There is a lot of great info about this in there. http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=127

Exhaust is gone (I pulled it for Northwet). But there's a shiny, new looking alternator on the car.

$60 is a great price for a new radiator; it's a ripoff for a used one. Spalding has an 800# and will ship to you via UPS. Also, the radiators are not listed in their store; call them on the 800# and ask them if they carry the rad for your car (they do; it's exactly the same one I bought for my Brat 4 months ago).

Don't waste your time with a radiator flush; save the money and put it toward the radiator. You have the classic symptom of a bad radiator (and you've already eliminated all the other possible gremlins). Very typical.... the faster you go on the highway, the hotter it runs; as soon as you slow down the temp goes down. Replace the radiator with new and you should be okay. It'll cost you around $100 plus shipping for a new radiator. Update: I see you're in Idaho. If you're near Spokane, go (or call) Spalding Auto Wreckers. They'll sell you a brand new Modine radiator for the $100 price. I've bought 5 radiators from them over the past 4 years and have been pleased with every one. Installed the last one in my Brat for the exact same symptoms you're having.

I remember an earlier post when the lock problems for the early '80's EA81s was discussed and there was supposed to be an "old time" locksmith in Bothell that was very good and reasonable. I went searching for that thread but couldn't find it. Maybe that post will come up again.

I've had keys cut for any number of Subarus from the Wxxx code # by more than one locksmith. The one I use now, cuts keys from the code for $6 each; I have them cut one master key, make sure it works in all the locks and then have them cut copies from the master. Odd that your dealer couldn't cut you a key. I didn't have the key code to my '94 Impreza, called the parts guy (Jason at Auburn Subaru), gave him my VIN# and he had a key cut for me and shipped it with my next order of parts. (It was cut on an Ilco X123 blank.

Even more information from John Elkin: A few reminders and changes for those of you that participated in the last rallycross at this location. Since SCCA is running road races out of the Pro Pits this weekend we will not have the Broadacre road to park on, it will be the only way of entry and exit for the pavement pounders. We can use both park and ride lots, one adjacent ot the field and the other across the entry road. Please leave the small dirt parking areas on Broadacre before the gate for the dog walkers. If the parking areas fill up there is another park n ride lot at the train station and we can always carefully park some people on the road leading up to the PIR main entrance. Remember, unless you are running, no vehicles allowed on the field except officials (registration, timing chief, rallymaster, safety stewards, ect...) John Elkin

More information from April Smith: Join us for another exciting rallycross on July 2nd, 2006 at the PIR Broadacre Field! What: Rallycross #4 "TWISTER" When: 07/02/06 Where: PIR Broadacre Field Classes: AM session Registration 8-9am Classes: M2, M4, PA, TO (time only) PM session Registration 12-1pm Classes: SF, SR, SA, PF, PR, TO Rallymaster: April Smith Website info: http://www.oregonrally.com/Event_Detail.cfm?EventID=470 Volunteers are very much appreciated. Please let me know if you are able to make one or more of the following positions for rallycross volunteer duties: Set-up (6:30ish - 8:00am; includes grid area, banner tape, course layout, painting the cones, help with registration/scoring set up) Registration (waivers) Tech inspector (8-9am and/or 12-1pm) Scoring help (if needed, Chris?) The weather will be excellent and the course will be creative. Look forward to seeing everyone out there on the 2nd! And don't forget about the GPIRAP TSD road rally race the day before, on July 1st, also featuring laps around the PIR course! For more details, visit http://www.oregonrally.com/Event_Detail.cfm?EventID=459. See you there!

I may have advised you incorrectly about pulling the steering wheel; sorry. However, the two bolts under the cable only hold the steering column up; you don't want to loosen them. The two bolts are the ones the hold the two halves of the ignition/locking mechanism together. This is where a picture would be worth a 1000 words. The bolts come in from the left side of the ignition lock and one is near the top and the other just underneath it near the bottom. The are tamper proof bolts with the heads missing. A set of pointy visegrips sometimes can loosen them. I usually just drill out the heads and then replace the bolts with new ones. Look at it carefully, you'll figure it out.

Get a new locksmith, he certainly doesn't know his business. All the EA81 lock codes are "W" followed by 3 digits. Key blanks are from Nissan/Datsun; Ilco X123 or DA25. Even my original Subaru key is an X123 blank. I've never heard of a "W" blank.

All of the mid '80's cars have ignition problems eventually. Your friend likely removed the key without turning the lock to off. Locksmith on the main drag in Redmond is where I go to have mine done; I had both lock cylinders replaced and keyed to match in my two '84 brats; pricey but I was tired of playing with the locks. You might try some tri-flo into the lock cylinder and hope you can release the steering lock (take the pressure off the steering lock by turning the wheel slightly one way or another while you try to turn the key in the ignition and get it back to normal). If you do need to call a locksmith try calling Aaron's Auto Wrecking in West Seattle and ask Tom or Brian if they can suggest a local locksmith to you.

I'm sorry, but the only way I know of to replace that is to replace the entire steering lock mechanism. That will entail removing the steering wheel and then drilling out the two tamper proof screws and that will allow you to replace the lock mechanism. Another way is to use a screw driver to start the car with the ignition switch and drive to a locksmith who should know how to take apart the lock cylinder. Howfully the steering lock is not engaged. Be prepared to shell out about $100 for repairing the lock cylinder. If you find a hatch or later model EA81 (I think '83 and '84 have the same locks as your hatch), you can remove the entire locking assembly and replace it on your hatch. If you do that, pull both driver and passenger door locks so you still have a matched set that will work with one key. The passenger side door lock will have the keycode and you can have a new key made.

Remove all the plastic cowling from underneath (6 screws I believe). The ignition switch unscrews with two small screws from the ignition lock and then unplugs from the harness about 4 to 5 inches down the cable; look for a pink plastic connector (at least that's what it's been in most of the EA81's I've worked on). It's been so long, but the two screws I'm talking about might be so-called "tamper proof." When I ran into that I used a small visegrip to loosen them and then took them out the rest of the way by hand.