edrach

One other thing, if the previous owner did some "creative" wiring in that area of the radiator, he might have reversed the wires to the fan in which case it will run backwards and force hot engine air forward and retard cooling air flow when driving. Odd symptoms, car would run fine when fan was off; as soon as it warmed up the fan would start and then the car would overheat when moving and cool down when stopped. I've only seen one case of this, but it's easy to mis-wire the fan. Reversing the wires on the thermo switch will not cause this; the switch doesn't care which way the electrons flow.

If you have the two pin thermo switch on the rad, you don't need the ground wire on the radiator since one side of the switch is power and the other goes to ground. Switch closed, fan should run; open switch fan should be off.

What's the battery voltage with the car off and with the engine running? It should be around 12V DC with the car off and over 13.6 or more with the engine running at around 1500 rpm. That's one problem that might need to be resolved. Fan likely has a bad thermal switch, connector, or bad ground on the radiator as well as a possible bad fan motor. Thermal switch mounted on the side of the radiator grounds the fan motor and power should be present at the connector. Thermal switch can't complete the path to ground if the ground wire for the radiator is missing (small wire to the top valance from the top of the radiator). Poor fan operation would only cause overheating if sitting at idle. There should be enough airflow through the radiator at cruising speed to keep the car from overheating. Depending on the age of the car (or the miles since the water pump was installed) will determine whether the water pump is at fault. Try to get a copy of How to Keep Your Subaru Alive, 2nd edition. It will cover basic repairs for your '87 and help you along.

For those of you who were there, another super fun event. Fine weather, no water truck, lots of dust, a great course with the top cars taking just over two minutes to complete a run. And an added bonus, pretty much on time; we got four runs in the morning and afternoon and were out of there by about 5 pm. I got to try out my new camera and it works pretty good (suitable for an amateur like me). Pics can be found in my album at http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos...ry.php?cat=889

No worries. I was just happy to get a chance to see what works with my new camera and what doesn't. So far I'm pretty happy with it.

For those of you who were there, another super fun event. Fine weather, no water truck, lots of dust, a great course with the top cars taking just over two minutes to complete. And an added bonus, pretty much on time; we got four runs in the morning and afternoon and were out of there by about 5 pm. I got to try out my new camera and it works pretty good (suitable for an amateur like me). Pics can be found in my album at http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=889

Arrgh, I think this is the same weekend as a (for me) local event. I'll have to check the local schedule for this. Thanks for the update.

Funny, I've experienced the same thing on the EJ18 I have on my rallycross car. So far it hasn't let go in the last 4000 miles since doing the timing belt but it does worry me a bit. I think the proper fix may be to install a helicoil and then re-tighten.

My '91 Legacy wagon (EJ22) has been my daily driver for over 5 years now. I've recently added a '94 Impreza sedan(EJ18) as my "play" car for rallycross. I've pretty well matched the gas mileage numbers mentioned in a previous post, but that might be primarily due to a difference in overall car weights as well as the smaller engine size. The EJ18 certainly has more power than my old EA82 powered '86 wagon but that was a carb'd engine so maybe not a fair comparison. Driveability of my two cars is quite similar since the Impreza has more get-up-and-go than I expected. The only difference I note is that the low end torque of the EJ22 is better since I'm able to leave the car in 5th on long steep hills with the EJ22 when I have to shift down to 4th with the EJ18. Either car is just fine as far as I'm concerned as long as you have a manual transmission; I'm personally biased against automatics. The only suggestion I have is to stick to the '96 and earlier EJ22 engine since the '97 and newer EJ22 is an interference engine.

Actually more that I like to visit Vancouver Island occasionally; and to get a rallycross on the same weekend would be fabulous. So how was your fishing?

That helps. Thank you. I'll follow up more later. I know a few friends on the Island as well a Board member on Salt Spring Island. I'm always looking for a reason to sneak a long weekend on Vancouver Island. Now I can even attend a rallycross if the timing is right.

From Paul Eklund: And then a PRG RallyCross event on Sunday Aug 6th at Straddleline ORV 16 miles west of Olympia. I know most of you already know all about this, but please spread the word to car clubs, friends, workers and people who might be interested in learning more about rally and sharpening their rally driving skills. I will work personally with all experienced drivers to help improve driving line and habits. I think most stage rallyists who have attended any of my classes feel they got some benefit and learned something new. I have been asked to put on a Rally Driving School on Sat August 5th at the Straddleline ORV Park just west of Olympia. I will use a rally cross-type course, so it will be open to all cars (street and rally) and the format will be 2 hours of ground school (just on DRIVING), then about 6 hours of driving exercises and a fun graduation course which will be timed. No driving suits required, but bring a helmet if you have one... I may come up Friday night and might do a little extra seminar session that night open to anyone. Kinda a "campfire talk" on rally... or else we will just play poker and "bench race." Please contact me if interested and to REGISTER: pauleklund@msn.com With the help of PRG the price has been reduced to $125 for just the day (Sat) which includes personalized instruction, the Primitive Performance Driving Course Book, and plenty of runs on a wide, graded track in front of the grandstands. $30 discount to anyone who has taken one of my other courses. More details to follow, and some already posted at: www.get-primitive.com So, Sat Aug 5th is now a Rally School at ORV park and that's right, Sunday Aug 6th is a RallyCross (not a rally sprint) at the ORV Park, put on by PRG. The sprints will be Janice's Jaunt and Ray's Ramble Rally Sprint in Montesano on Aug 12-13th. I am not yet sure who is sanctioning those sprints, so I do not know what rules they will run under... I think they are still busy preparing for the Brooklyn Bash (July 29th) www.historicbrooklyntavern.com/rallycross.htm and will get details about the SPRINTS up after that.......

Cool, that would be great!

That is a useful link. I may continue to look into this. If I can keep my existing rally tires instead of spending $450+ for a set of slightly used 14" Silverstones I will be tickled.

Because I have a full set of 13" rallycross tires and I would get just a little more dig with the smaller diameter tire. Ground clearance is not an issue here.

Someone told me a while back (when I wasn't interested enough to remember it) that some of the early Imprezas came with 13" wheel rims. Not sure if they were alloy or steel. Anyway, if they were available does anyone have a set and will they clear stock brakes and calipers in a '94 Impreza sedan?

I had to add a small amount this spring, but I suspect I was low to start with on my initial re-fill. I'll let you know how it survives this summer.

I switched over to R134a last year without changing any of the hoses, seals, etc. Just removed the R12 and pulled a vacuum on the system for 24 hours and then bled in the R134a (luckily, we have the equipment and certification to do refrigeration work). The R134a doesn't blow quite as cold as the R12 did, but seems to keep me comfortable during this current hot spell. Only difference I notice is that it doesn't blow as cold while sitting at a traffic light, but once I get going down the road, it's fine again. If you didn't have any issues with the compressor, I'd just have some R12 added where you can. A switch to R134a will get you to what is now "standard". I don't know anything about any of the other "special" refrigerants that are considered alternatives to R12. I made the switch last year on my '91 Legacy wagon and everything still seems to work quite well. I have noticed an issue with the compressor starting to seize up when I run it for a long time, but it was doing that with the R12 also and I guess I'll have to replace the compressor sometime. Hopefully it will take me through this summer and fall.

Smoking for a while on an engine that has sat for a long time is pretty normal. After a week or so that should just be limited to some visible exhaust when the engine is first started which goes away after the engine has fully warmed up.

Here's the latest scoop from ORG. Triple Threat Rally Contest The triple threat rally contest is a contest combining three events with trophies to be awarded to the top five finishers across all three events. The events included in the contest are: August 18th, Cascade Sports Car Club’s Friday Night TSD Rally. August 19th, Cascade Sports Car Club’s Mountains to the Sea TSD Rally. August 20th, Oregon Rally Group’s / SCCA’s Rallycross #6. For information about Cascade’s events go to _www.cascadescc.com_ (http://www.cascadescc.com/) . For information about ORG’s Rallycross go to _www.oregonrally.com_ (http://www.oregonrally.com/) Anyone who enters all three events will automatically be entered in the triple threat rally contest. Each events will be scored and results determined by the organizers of each event. Based on the results issued by each event organizer, entrants will receive points toward the Triple Threat Rally Contest. These points will be based on their finishing position in their class at an event. A first place in class awards 25 points, and second place in class awards 24 points. This continues with 24th in class receiving 2 points and all other class finishers receiving 1 point. Entrants who do not finish will not receive any points. The entrant with the most points after the three event will be awarded the first place trophy. For the TSD rallies, both the driver and Navigator will receive Triple Threat Rally Contest points. For the rallycross only the entrant (driver) will receive points. TSD Navigators wishing to earn Triple Threat Rally Contest points may enter the rallycross as a driver. Worker points. The events would not be possible without the volunteer workers making the event happen. Workers who, because of their worker assignment, cannot compete in the event they worked, will receive 23 point’s toward the Triple Threat Rally Contest. The intent is to award worker points only to those people who couldn't possibly enter an event. For example the rallymaster of a TSD event cannot compete in that event and would receive worker points, but someone who helps with registration at a TSD event, while their help is greatly appreciated, would not receive worker points because they could still enter the event. An individual may only receive worker points once. Triple Threat Rally Contest trophies will be awarded at the awards ceremony following the Rallycross on Sunday.

There is no idle adjustment on the EJ22. It's done entirely with the IAC and ECU. The mechanical adjustment will change the idle but will mask a problem with the IAC which needs cleaning or replacement.

Much cheaper than my impact driver and lighter too. Can't beat the price.

Yes to your question; and yes to your comment.

If you wind up replacing the PCV, use a genuine Subaru one. The Board is rife with comments about "after-market" valves not working properly.

I use my electric impact tool from Harbor Freight. Works every time for the castle nut and the lug nuts are a cinch. Definitely get some PB Blaster to help with the rear backing plate. I've found spraying it on and then scraping off the rust with a knife or wire brush make getting the backing plate off much easier. Also, save all the hardware; you never know when you might need it later.