edrach

Skip, this is Qman. I think you are spot on with your hypothosis. With the described condition of the vehicle it sounds like there could be a slight build up on the valves. For the money though, I would just reseal and gasket the motor for no other reason than an insurance policy. It is already out and you will be able to check the valves visually that way. On a complete side note. I have a better set for you now that it has been way too long. Send(pm) me an address and I will attempt to get these in the mail before the 2nd coming!! Ken

Latest info from Erik: When: Sunday, October 15th, 2006 Where: 6636 Prather Rd SW, Rochester, WA What: PRG RallyCross Cost: $30 per competitor Schedule: 8am-9am: Tech, then registration (course open for course walk) 9:15am: Driver's meeting 9:25am: Parade Lap 9:30am: First car out Order of operations: 1. Tech inspection (please remove all loose items from your vehicle before tech inspection). a. If you are changing tires to compete, please do so before tech inspection 2. Registration 3. Driver's meeting / worker assignments 4. Parade lap 5. First car out Helmets are required (Snell 95 and newer rating). Loaner helmets will be available at the event but in limited supply. If you're unsure about what class your car will run in, please read this: http://scca.org/_FileLibrary/File/20...CrossRules.pdf Spectators: All spectators are welcome at this event! There is no charge as this event isn't at the ORV park! See you out there! -Erik

I'm trying to reach you by PM regarding the seats. I might be coming down to Portland tomorrow. It would be helpful if I can get in touch before I leave.

You did well. $4500 value is not far off the mark. If you get a polishing wheel and take about 4 hours on each wheel, they can look like this: Or you can spend $75 per wheel and pay someone else to do it like I did. What we won't do for our Brats.

4WD, GL-10 version in white with blue interior. Seats are that blue velour and in fine shape. Rear disks are still on it but turbo unit is gone. Legacy sedan ('92) with teardrop type alloy wheels.

Stock LSD was 3.700 ratio; easy to convert to 3.900 for use on most of the EA81 and EA82 models.

You might try Primitive Racing at www.get-primitive.com; Paul is not local to you but Tigard, OR is not too far for quality protection. I have both the skidplate for the engine and rear diff on my Impreza; under $240 for both installed on my car.

Sorry to disagree with your diss of Redline, but I have to recommend the Redline 75W-90NS which is what they suggest for "older" transmissions with synchro problems. When I bought our '91 Legacy wagon it came with a significant "crunch" when shifting into 2nd and down into 1st. I changed the oil when I bought the Legacy and found that the "crunch" disappeared in the next 3 to 6 months. Being a bit skeptical, there was always the possibility that I was compensating for the defect in the synchros and that it wasn't the oil at all. Since then I've put 75K miles on the car and the transmission is shifting just fine (due for another oil change in the next year of so). More recently, I bought a '94 Impreza sedan with a much more definite "crunch" shifting in the lower gears. I only use the Impreza for rallycross and while any of our daily driver's is out of service. I changed the transmission oil shortly after I bought it and again used the Redline NS oil. In the few miles I've driven the car (around 5K) the "crunch" is definitely diminished and I have to purposely rush the shift to see even a hint of it. This Impreza comes with a "short shifter" installed which likely takes its toll on the synchros. After two good successes with the Redline I see no reason to try anything else. The cost of the Redline (4 quarts at less than $10 per quart) for 75K to 100K is really insignificant. Information can be found at Redline's website: http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlubricants.asp?productID=38&subCategoryID=15&categoryID=6

Another thought is that the round part of the CVJ that seats in the backside of the hub had dirt in the way of proper seating; as that dirt disappears, the nut appears to loosen.

Didn't need rain on this course; felt like the surface was all marbles and required attention to where your car was going. In some respects worse than slick mud.

I had to opt for staying local this weekend. But please post again if another double rallycross in the future.

Try this to see how the tire change will affect your car's performance: http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

Just make sure you don't get stuck with the 390 metric rims. Good luck with it.

http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/pts/210607007.html

good thought; I'm on it.

Right, complete open circuit puts full voltage to the blower.

Only way they would find their way that far north would be for someone to ask me to ship them up!! That's not too likely.

Getting back to the swap question...the swap shouldn't be difficult. Just keep the manifold, ECU and wiring harness from your EJ18 and drop the EJ22 in underneath it. I'm pretty sure that's been done before and I'm contemplating it for my '94.

I'll second the gas mileage difference with the 1.8; my wife gets a full 5 mpg lower mileage with her '97 Impreza (EJ22) than I get with the '94 (EJ18). I easily get 30+ on the highway with mine; never seen close to that with hers. Also, you might find the purchase price of the 1.8 is lower since it is "less desirable."

I believe these wheels were an option in '94; experts can correct me on this.

Richie, I'm not unhappy but would like to catch the SOB who took them. I wonder if the local scrap dealers would watch for them since they are quite rare.

It's the resistor block. In all the cars I've found with this problem, it has never been the switch.

EA81 and EA82 both use the same resistor block if I remember correctly. Some of them are difficult to replace if there is a leak in the windshield gasket allowing water to run down into the blower area; this causes the screws to rust in place and yes, that makes it a PITA to repair.

Lots of ways to do this, if you do a search on the resistor block you mind find a lot of info. I remember posting the resistance values for each leg. Nichrome resistance wire will work and you can wind your own. Other approaches work but remember that the wattage is quite high (over 50 watts if I remember correctly--that's why they are mounted in the path of the blower air stream for dissipation of the heat generated) and 2 watt resistors from radio shack will go up in smoke pretty quick.

A set of four of these wheels was stolen in Portland on or about 9/13/2006. If you see these for sale or on a car please contact edrach by PM. They are pretty unique and 14" 5 bolt pattern that would fit early Legacy or Impreza. Thanks.