edrach

Spalding Auto Wrecking in Spokane will sell you a single row for under $100 shipped to your door. I've bought 5 or 6 from them and never had a problem with any of them. (over the course of as many years with as many cars!). Good luck; a new radiator should do the trick; I've never found a need for a double row and would only consider it for an EA82T. Oh, one other thing, I'm a firm believer in going OEM on thermostats and PCV valves. And a clogged EGR will make the engine run hotter than normal but you won't overheat with a good radiator (my Brat has a weber and dis-abled EGR and runs all day without overheating).

Count me in!

That hour of the morning it shouldn't make much of a difference. I normally take SR512 because I hate going through Tacoma, but I-5 to SR18 would likely be faster. Not very helpful, am I?

Sorry front and rear rotors are different, especially when the EA81's went to vented front rotors. Before then they might be the same, but I'm not sure.

I've done over a dozen of these conversions; never had any concern about the proportioning valve (if there is one or not). I concur, you should have done it a long time ago. It's one of the easiest and nicest updates you can do to the car.

Glad you have it back. Calebz gave you good advice; if you have a place to store it safely, it's in better hands if you have possession of it, than the insurance company. Best of luck on getting a fair settlement.

This is the Lynnwood PAP yard on Hwy 99, 1/4 mile north of 188th St. Pretty easy to find. If you can't make it there yourself, drop me a PM and we can talk about my pulling them for you. Hopefully they are still there; if not, I have a few in my "stash" which I can sell since I no longer have an EA82 car.

Don't open up the A/C lines for power steering lines. Remove the compressor from the bracket and lay it over the driver's side fender. Do the same with the power steering pump; remove it from the bracket and lay it over the passenger side bumper. Snowman is right on with the manifold; it should unplug with three connectors from the main harness on the passenger side if I remember correctly. You can remove it later if you need to. After that it's only the battery to disconnect, alternator, exhaust header and small stuff. It's probably easier if you drain the coolent and remove the radiator also. By the way, CCR is great to deal with; if you have any questions about replacing the engine, call them. I've also ways found them to be exceedingly helpful.

You know, come to think of it, it might really be leaking out of the valve cover gaskets. Pretty common on the EA81 and EA82 engines. It would look like its coming out of the oil pan. Much easier fix and less costly too. Replace the valve cover gaskets first, clean it up and wait. If it's leaking around the oil pan gasket you can still do that later. Good luck.

No, just get a new gasket and replace that. Depending on which car you have, you might even be able to replace it without disturbing the engine mounts. Around here, the local PAP yards, hole the oilpan to drain the oil so if you're picking up a replacement 'pan make sure there aren't any extra holes in it.

I have to agree with northwet on why we both use NGKs. In 40+ years of using them (on BMW, Datsun, Mazda and now Subaru), I've never had to change one because the car was running "funny." I install them and forget about them and 30K or more miles later I think it might be time to change them. Even after all those miles the car still seems to run okay but I change them since I know they can't last forever.

My understanding is that the -11 plugs are pre-gapped.

This was new to me since I'm not into lifting my brat, but it might be old hat to others; if that's the case I'm sorry to be posting old information. http://sjrlift.com/

Sadly, the last PRG event that was post-phoned recently, is now officially cancelled. I understand it was a family emergency that caused the post-phonement and I'm not surprised to hear that it will not be put on this year. A full schedule of 8 events next year looks like it is in the planning stages. So I guess the last rallycross event of the year in this area will be at Subiefest. More details could be had at http://www.subiefest.com/. That should be a fine course design since it will be put on by Paul Eklund.

What an ugly thought, beer and oreos!

Wiring: A word to the wise; install the lights to operate with a relay. The relay coil can be wired to the high beams (as you wish) and a switch so you can extinguish the fog lamps when you dim the brights. The cars wiring will easily handle the control side of the relay; wire the lamps directly to the battery with a fuse as close to the battery terminal as possible. The other side of the lamps are grounded full time. Don't use too small wire for the lamps...14 gauge would be fine for each auxillary lamp (6 amps each; for 100 watt bulbs, use 12 guage); 18 gauge for the control wires to the relay.

Good point. Remember that the "average" after market lamp pulls just under 6amps, so a pair are 12amps; if you have 4 you are up to a significant output of your alternator when added to the regular load without the auxillary lights. An older GL alternator is limited to 60 amps output at 3000 rpm. A good point to keep in mind.

I think the composite headlights are $21.50 each plus tax.

Yes; although I didn't walk that far down the rows. That row isn't due to be cleaned out for another two weeks or so.

Walked the yard again today and there's an '89 GL sedan with the cleanest headlights I've seen in a while. I'd glom them, but I already have more than I can sell and don't own an EA82 vehicle anymore. Halfway down the first aisle on the left next to the white EA81 wagon.

Sorry, I guess speed reading doesn't work!

Certainly nice condition; looks almost new. New sells for around $325US here in the states with adapter. Used will go for $100US to $175US depending on condition.

Rotate one wheel by hand and see which way the other wheel turns. If it turns in the same direction the diff is LSD or VLSD. If it turns in opposite direction it's Open.

It is quite unusual but certainly possible (**it happens). It's also possible the temp guage was innacurate or there was a failure in the cooling system that allowed excessive heat to damage the block/HG without indicating excessive overheating.

Here's what I installed in my Brat: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53913&highlight=cup+holder Also, the '85 or thereabouts Ford Contour has a "disappearing" cup holder that flips up and works neat; I just haven't figured out how I want to install it yet.