edrach

Oh, you'll like the AGX's; I have them on my Impreza now. Good luck.

No, that's the going list price for AGX's. They are nice shocks; adjustable and all (Thanks Jerry). I'd suggest you get KYB GR2's; not adjustable but an excellent shock for your car. The previous owner of my Legacy had installed them on my car when he bought it (at 73K miles). I have 184K on the car now and the shocks are still fine. I will be installing another set of GR2's on my daily driver legacy when these shocks wear out. GR2's price out at around $70 per strut if you shop around a bit.

Sadly I won't make it this year. We'll be in Pittsburg for a wedding.

So what's the price for the AGX struts or GR2 struts from KYB? Don't leave us hanging like this Sparkster.

Those prices are about right. I had good success getting axles from Oregon Drive Axles in Tigard (I hope I got the name right); good rebuilds and best price.

Bump to the front. I have three of these. Anyone want them to complete a set? Make me a reasonable offer.

Yield by Chemsearch is the best product I've found. http://www.chemsearch.com/productDetail.asp?country=USA&language=English&language_id=4&countryName=United+States&pLetter=Y&pName=Yield%C2%AE%0D%0A Having replaced rear shocks on four or five Brats, this is the only stuff to break loose those upper mounting bolts without heating them up with a torch. 2nd choice is Kroil (available in the Seattle area at Tacoma Screw stores).

A '95 Impreza showed up at Lynnwood last Thursday with significant front end damage. Tail-lights, seats, and wheels were gone when I saw it on Friday. I took the instrument cluster out (it had 175K on the odo). I stopped by yesterday and someone had cut off the damaged front end and removed the engine. Manual AWD 5 speed transmission is still there and likely is a good transmission (it didn't run into an accident by itself). Anyway, it wouldn't take more than 5 minutes to remove the tranny (only one bad axle is still attached) and it's just held in by the tranverse member. A good find for someone needing a good transmission. I'm tempted to take it but I have too much stuff already.

If you are rapidly burning out dash lights, I'd suspect your alternator is putting out too high voltage. Check the voltage with a known good digital volt meter; it shouldn't go above 14.5V at 3000 or 4000 rpm.

Found this on CL this morning; not much information but here it is anyway: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/car/277972437.html

I didn't think the Impreza came out until '93. East coast car near the shore, I'd be worried about rust.

It's a commercial tester and many of the autoparts stores have one. I'll try to get some more information on it.

The B&B tester simulates the pulses generated by the "star" gear to see if there is an equivalent output pulse to generate the spark with the coil. It does it at two speeds to make sure the unit works at low rpm and also at high rpm. The tester is not unique to our modules; it's a universal tester to check many brands of ignition modules.

No need to punch out the roll pin. With the distributor in the car (or held in place in a vise), use two screwdrivers to carefully pry the 4 point "star" unit. Do not nick the edges of it while doing this. Once that part is off the shaft, the module comes out easily with a small phillips screwdriver. Don't lose any of the spacers or hardware.

You don't need the whole distributor; just the ignition module will do and you should add a known good one to your glove box. The comments on distributor shaft wobble and faulty wiring that someone else mentioned are plainly visible if you check the innards of your distributor and should be resolved sooner rather than later especially if you're planning a long trip. If you want a quick lesson on module removal/replacement, arrange to meet me at PAP some time when there is a known Hitachi distributor available and I'll show you the easy way to replace the module.

Testing outside the car: Make friends with the counter people at B&B Parts in Redmond. They have an electronic tester that will test your module for you at low speed and high speed. Try and let them allow you to do it since the clamp to ground the module is critical. If it's not properly connected the module will fail the test. Remember, their purpose is to sell you a new module. Failure mode: The Hitachi module almost never fails suddenly. It usually starts to give you intermittant no starts or failures before it finally dies. If it dies on you suddenly you're either very unlucky or not paying attention to the warning signs. Rumor: I was told that the Schuck's version of this module had a tendency to fail after you jump started another car with jumper cables. I don't know if that's true or not, but my first module failure was about a week after starting a friend's car with jumper cables. Installation tip: The underside of the module is probably a heatsink for the components. I always install mine with the white goop for better heat transfer (get a small tube of it from Radio shack). I don't know if that helps but I normally get many years out any module I've installed (and all of mine were pulled from cars at PAP and then tested at B&B so they are not "new"). Purchase tip: The first one I bought at B&B, I was offered a price of $85, $125 and $200. I asked what's the difference? 90 day warranty, 1 year warranty, or lifetime warranty was the reply. I bought the $85 one and it lasted more than 5 years. Generally speaking when it comes to electronic components like this, if they were properly designed and manufactured they should last a long time. If not properly manufactured, they will usually fail within a week so the 90 day warranty is really all you need. Smart tip: Get one from a wreck at PAP and have it tested and keep it in your glove box for emergency repairs. Minimal tools are usually all you need to fix it on the road. And it's pretty easy to test: no spark, it's usually the module. If not, you've eliminated the cheapest part (if you get it from PAP). All of these comments refer to the Hitachi ignition module. I have no idea if the ND version is prone to the same issues. I decided a long time ago to only "stock" parts for the Hitachi distributor because I thought it was easier to work with.

It's a '96 so it's probably an EJ22 and better yet, a non-interference engine. From what you describe, the engine parts shouldn't cost much from a junkyard. Body work will likely be more expensive. The airbags will cost you a small fortune and might queer the deal.

You never said whether Bucky was FWD or 4WD. Which?

You would lose .6 inches in ground clearance and have a 5% error in the speedometer. Doesn't sound like much difference in a snowstorm. Check out the tire size calculator:http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

Removing the bezel is scary since you don't know whether you're actually removing it properly or if you're about to break it. Also all the screws holding the bezel, control panel, and such together are on the inside and really hard to get at without disconnecting all three cables and electical connections. Trying to replace the two bulbs without doing all that is a bit tricky. I have that junkyard control panel here and still don't know how to get at the bulb for the A/C control.

It might be the same bulb as in the climate control panel on later model Imprezas. If it's the same, an equivalent bulb without the amber color can be had from NAPA (Wagner 17037). Check out the following thread for more information: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=70556&page=2

If a moderator wants to add the previous post to the USRM, please feel free to do so. I don't know how to go about that. Also, the control panel for the pics came from a 2001 Forrestor, so I suspect many post '97 Imprezas, WRXs, and Forrestors may have the same arrangement.

I bought a climate control panel from the local Subaru only yard so that I would be able to see what I was in for. I wound up prying the bezel from the top VERY CAREFULLY to get it off the dash. After removing the left dash kick panel and with the vent control fully counter-clockwise I was able to remove the vent cable from its peg and free the cable sheath from the clamp on the left side of the dash. This allowed me some more access to the rear of the climate control panel. Here's a pic from the unit I bought at Aaron's: It's shown with both dials fully CCW (as seen from the front). Notice that the lamp holders are impossible to remove or replace unless you have super small fingers. Here's a picture of the rear with the dials fully CW (as seen from the front) so that now the lamp holders can be twisted out, the lamps replaced, and the holder twisted back in. Still not easy but do-able. The lower lamp holder shown above is for the vent status dial. This one is the easier of the two to replace. The temp dial lamp at the top is more difficult. I couldn't figure out how to replace the A/C indicator lamp which is inside the A/C switch. I didn't think it was important to have it working once the other two lamps were okay. After I put everything back together, I was pleasantly surprised to find the A/C indicator was working. Here's a pic of the old bulb I removed: If you want to see more detailed pics, check out my Repair album at http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=959.

I bought a climate control panel from the local Subaru only yard so that I would be able to see what I was in for. I wound up prying the bezel from the top VERY CAREFULLY to get it off the dash. After removing the left dash kick panel and with the vent control fully counter-clockwise I was able to remove the vent cable from its peg and free the cable sheath from the clamp on the left side of the dash. This allowed me some more access to the rear of the climate control panel. Here's a pic from the unit I bought at Aaron's: It's shown with both dials fully CCW (as seen from the front). Notice that the lamp holders are impossible to remove or replace unless you have super small fingers. Here's a picture of the rear with the dials fully CW (as seen from the front) so that now the lamp holders can be twisted out, the lamps replaced, and the holder twisted back in. Still not easy but do-able. The lower lamp holder shown above is for the vent status dial. This one is the easier of the two to replace. The temp dial lamp at the top is more difficult. I couldn't figure out how to replace the A/C indicator lamp which is inside the A/C switch. I didn't think it was important to have it working once the other two lamps were okay. After I put everything back together, I was pleasantly surprised to find the A/C indicator was working. Here's a pic of the old bulb I removed: If you want to see more detailed pics, check out my Repair album at http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=959.

Unfortunately, it was half melted and unusable for both lights. Actually it allows more light to be able to see the status of the control lights. Sorry to use the terminology, but it was the most descriptive way I could get the point across.