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More photos from Wayne Flynn at PDX Photos. http://www.pdxsports.com/photos/showindex.asp?folder=200607_RX_ALL To save you time looking through 25 pages of pics, Wayne was only there in the morning. If you ran in the afternoon, you're out of luck here.

If it runs cool while moving and overheats while idling it sounds like the fan is not coming on. Check the fan and the fan switch. Getting the air out of the system should help also but might not be the cause of the overheating when idling.

Just a small bit of advice: Do the rear brake conversion first and verify everything is working properly. THEN replace the master cylinder and re-bleed the brakelines. I've never had a problem with the rear brake conversion, but I have had issues when replacing the master cylinder. If you do both together and have a problem you'll not know which end of the car is the cause of the problem. Good luck.

NEW Single row from Spalding Auto Wrecking; I got one for my '94 Impreza for $105 shipped to my door. Search Spalding in Spokane, WA for 800 #. Single row is all you really need for proper cooling as long as your water pump and thermostat are okay.

Results are posted. http://www.oregonrally.com/files/RallyCross_16_July_2006.pdf

Now that I've seen the posted results (http://www.oregonrally.com/files/RallyCross_16_July_2006.pdf) I need to correct the previous statement. There were 3 production front wheel drive cars entered. Also only 5 production rear wheel driive entered.

I think a vintage class would be great. Also a novice class. And a true truck class. When last weekend's event only had 3 cars entered in 2WD rear ( I might have the class wrong), there's certainly room for other classes.

Yes, the new SCCA classes have pretty much made running older car, Subies included, obsolete.

I managed to try out my new camera. Camera does a better job than I do. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=884

Next Brooklyn event is 7/29.

Another vote for Legacy. Easier to work on in all respects....timing belt is easier and changing a front axle is certainly easier. Handles much better too. Only downside is slightly poorer gas mileage.

It is a good price for the switch. The most probable cause is the switch; I wonder if the replacement comes with the 6" cable and connector to plug into the harness. The connector can also be the root of the intermittant problem and should also be replaced. It's usually pretty easy to spot a bad connector, the plastic around the bad connection gets hot and turns brown or black. A quick visual inspection could confirm that.

Benebob is right about a faulty battery causing alternator failure. An open circuit (internal or bad connectors) in the battery while the car is running can wipe a good alternator almost instantly. In any event go back to the rebuild shop and explain the situation. A quality shop will warrantee their work; they also have the ability to check your electrical system to make sure the alternator didn't fail due to external problems.

Your fiance is right, you'll figure it out. You didn't mention the other problems earlier, and you might be correct in letting it go. As to the electrical problem, the symptoms sound suspiciously like the ignition switch which is easily replaced along with the problem connector that has been known to cause similar symptoms. Taking care of that would go a long way toward allowing you to use the car until you find a suitable alternative. Good luck and hang in there.

Mike, here's the info you're looking for:http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10410&highlight=Cameron+weber

Don't get discouraged. Remember how old the car is and know that certain things are easily fixable. Bucky's symptoms are that the engine doesn't turn over: this could be a weak battery (or alternator not charging the battery fully), poor connection(s) at the battery terminals, a bad ground connection, a faulty ignition switch ($5 at my local Pull a Part yard and 30 minutes to install), and lastly, a faulty starter motor (or loose connection at the starter motor). None of these require a rocket scientist to diagnose nor a lot of money. Lean on your local support group to give you a hand if you need it....I'm sure they'd be glad to do it for a 6 pack or maybe a weekend BBQ. The most expensive item on the list would be the starter motor and it would be the last thing I checked. Good luck with it and don't give up; you don't impress me as the type that would.

This is my car for play as well as backup when my daily driver needs work. '94 Impreza 4 door with EJ18 and 5MT transmission. A few suspension mods but otherwise pretty stock. Pics are here:http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=828

Mike, good to hear from you again. I can look inside the weber and see but I don't know for the life of me what's in there right now. If you can find some of Cameron's old posts on the weber this one was rebuilt/re-jetted by him a long time ago and I think I had to open up the air bleed jets to lean it out a bit when it was on my "hot" engine. I'll try to get you some info on it.

Thanks, I wasn't sure, but now I don't need to worry about it until 2008 and it passed today and it'll pass in 2008...Webers rule!

Fred, glad to see it's working for you. Sometimes the simplest solution are the answer. Your car's symptoms were classic and you had eliminated the other things first. Good job. PS: I ordered a radiator from Spalding today for my Impreza....brand new $83 plus tax and shipping. I'm so happy.

Failed miserably this year....450ppm HCs at cruise. Took it to the downtown emissions guru that I tell everyone else to use. He tweaked it down to where it should have passed and he offered to take it through for me. Since he had two cars waiting behind me I said I'd take it through...Big mistake. They make you get out and run it themselves and when it didn't finish right away, the guy just kept upping the rpm in 2nd. It failed with 172 ppm(limit 170:eek: ) Warren took it through without any changes and it passed. The secret, run it in third at lower rpm, not in second....it passed just fine, just cost me another $15 for the re- test since they only give you one free one. Only one more time and I'll be exempt; I can't wait!:-\

I would check Kelly Blue Book prices on both cars. I would suspect the turbo is overpriced for the year and condition. GT seems about right. Check KBB and make your own decision based on that. Also, I would spend $100 or so on whichever you decide and take it to another independent shop for a "pre-buy inspection."

Summer looks cool; glad you like the pugs.

You'll laugh, the first 3 out of 4 that I did were installed upside down! So much for a 50-50 chance of doing it wrong.

Olympus SP-500UZ. Currently on sale until Tuesday at Frye's for $249 plus tax with a "free" 512Mb memory card included. 6 megapixel and 10x optical zoom with 5x digital. Not small and a bit clunky, but I was looking for the features and not appearance. I also like it since you can download pics on your computer without installing any funky software; just plug it into a USB port and the camera acts like an external drive. Lastly, it doesn't wait 2 seconds after you press the shutter to actually take a picture like my old camera. If you have the Frye's flyer from last Friday, it's listed on the top left of the front page at $349 before savings of $100. Considering I paid $249 for my 2.0 Mp Olympus three years ago this is a pretty good deal. http://www.olympusamerica.com/cpg_section/product.asp?product=1189