casm

Do you happen to have photos of the rims? There was a company (their name escapes me) back in the late-'80s and '90s bringing in alloys not available in the US for European cars. It's possible that you may have a rim from a 205, 309, or other Peugeot not sold in the US.

Good question, and I'll figure it out after it's back from getting the clutch, axles, and struts done. This is what I'd like to do. Basically it looks like there're two options: the surface-mounted thermoswitch (easy) or tying in to the existing system (not particularly difficult, but not as clear as to how to do it). If I can find a delay relay, that one's a no-brainer - but it all comes down to finding that delay relay. Point taken. I have a spare alternator I'd like to have rewound for about 75 amps so I can run the spotlights as well as everything else at the same time; looked into the Maxima swap, but the problem is finding a Maxima in the junkyards around here. Good to know; thanks. Entirely possible; my Brats have been an '86, an '85, and another '86 in that order. Thing is, someone cut (IIRC) the crossmember / panel normally between the grille and radiator to get it to fit. This sucker was *thick*, and I was surprised by the pressure it had to run at. Not discounting what you're saying... Just that it looked like something that wasn't originally there. And this one had the auto tranny lines as well. Point taken, and to a large extent I don't know what was in there. I wish the person who bought that old Brat of mine up in Seattle (white, sold on Mercer Island about 2 months ago) would get on here so I could needle them on it

This is based on my memory from owning a number of Peugeots in years gone by. I'm pretty sure it's correct, but don't take it as gospel without doing some measuring first. That said: All steel and alloy rims for a Peugeot 504 use the same backspacing. All steel and alloy rims for a Peugeot 505 use the same backspacing; this applies to vehicles from both before and after the body style change in 1986. Backspacing is slightly different for 504 rims than for 505 rims and vice-versa. This applies only to rims fitted to the four wheels normally on the ground. It does not apply to rims from the spare, which may be different. I seem to recall that Peugeot used a standard steel wheel for the spare on most models, but 'Peugeot' and 'consistency' do not always go together. As I say, I'm pretty sure this is correct. I've swapped 505 rims to 504s and vice-versa before without any issues, which means it should be a non-issue on 4-lug Subarus. I know it's common knowledge, but it bears repeating: watch out that you're not getting a 390mm rim. They were used on 505s in (roughly) the 1983-1985 timeframe, and you won't get tyres for them for less than $200 apiece. Obviously you'll check anyway, but if the rim has Michelin TRXs on it, beware. It's also not unusual to run across vehicles with four 14" or 15" rims, but a 390mm spare - people would swap out the four main 390mm rims, but not the spare.

Bullseye; that is exactly what I'm looking for! I've got a 185-degree thermostat in there now, so could set the secondary to around 195-200 degrees and get the delayed kick-in I'm looking for. Thanks; I figured there had to be a way to do it but had no idea what to look for. Much appreciated! As an aside, someone had fitted a mystery Subaru radiator to my last Brat - it had two (possibly three, I forget) rows and used a 16psi cap. Even in start-stop traffic in 110-degree weather in Los Angeles, that little sucker just stayed right on the line on the temperature gauge. My best guess is that it was an XT6 or SVX radiator, but I just don't know - and with the compressor and pulleys eating up more space between the engine and radiator on this one, it doesn't look like something I can really do on this one.

Mkay, good to know. This is a project I'm totally unfamiliar with doing, so any pointers are definitely useful. That would probably work, though (unless I've misunderstood) I'd prefer to not have to mess with the main fan's operation if possible - what I'm getting at is that I'd like to keep the main fan working as it does now, then have the A/C fan kick in once it realises that the main fan is running. I'm guessing that this is what GD was getting at, but if you've got any part numbers or links to the one you're talking about I'd appreciate it - we don't have any CSK stores out here, just AutoZone and Advance Auto. Hell, the nearest Pep Boys is 90 miles away. Edit: Txakura, I see what you were getting at with the switch, and I think you may have just found something else that the previous owner didn't add into the mix when he was installing A/C on this Brat. OK, so it looks like what I need to do is install that switch, then put the delay timer between the main fan relay and its relay (which probably isn't there). Oof. That's not a huge deal in and of itself, but I wish I had an EA-81 with A/C I could look at to figure all of this out. The chances of one of those turning up in the junkyards around here are about zero, so it's going to be interesting.

Before I get into this, I just want to point out that I'm not looking to do this to compensate for a cooling system with problems; I just want to improve the rate at which the coolant is cooled when the fan has to kick in. With that in mind: I have a semi-finished (evaporator's not installed) A/C installation in my Brat. The A/C fan is mounted and operational if connected to a +12V source. I'm dithering on whether or not to finish the A/C installation, but I would like to put that fan to good use in the meantime. Basically, I'd like to have it kick in a second or two after the main fan comes on and run until the coolant is back down to normal temperature, at which point both fans would shut off. The idea behind doing it this way is to help keep electrical load down: two small kicks (one from each fan) is better than one huge one. Has anyone done this before? I've searched, but couldn't find what I was looking for.

Are you maybe thinking of how to clear the EGR light on the EA-81s? Under the dash on the driver's side there's a green connector that's plugged into either a green or blue connector; they're right next to each other. Swap it to the unused connector, start the engine, and the EGR light goes out. Had to do it on mine at roughly 118,500 miles when I swapped out the EGR (which was actually dead), then again at bang on 120,000 when the emissions timer decided it was time to flip the light back on.

Can I get a quick rundown on how you did the speaker mounts and if you were able to use the stock speaker grilles afterwards? I'm not looking to do anything on the scale you are, but I've got 1.3 speakers working in mine right now and would like to take care of that. It looks pretty straightforward, but if there were any gotchas in doing it I'd really like to know in advance. Also, if you found replacements for the tweeters that actually fit in those tiny spaces, I'd love to know what you used. Great job, BTW. I'm really looking forward to seeing it once it hits 100%.

*Facepalm* OK, I'm an idiot. I just didn't see the white/grey contrast on the link and text. And I voted Brat, again

It might be that they don't know where it is; I had to use the search feature to find it since I didn't know it was in Off-Topic and figured it was the usual poll done as part of the forum, not one that was off-site. Anyway, the poll is here for anyone wondering. And I voted EA-81 because I'm a Brat bigot

I'll take a part number on that, please. My fix is holding up, but I'd prefer to get the original clips back in there if possible. Are the clips the same all the way around the bed, or are there different part numbers depending on whether it's tailgate, side, or cab trim?

I obviated the clips completely (or, rather, they obviated themselves by disintegrating) for my tailgate chrome and did some hackery involving machine screws, nylock nuts, flat washers, and some nylon spacers cut to fit. I can't remember the exact specs of what I used offhand, but it shouldn't be too hard to figure out. If I can find some of the leftovers at the house later and they're still in their bags, I'll let you know what they were. Getting my hand inside the tailgate to hold a wrench on the nylocks while I fastened down the machine screws was... Fun. I've still got a scar on my left hand from where it managed to catch on the latch mechanism.

Makes sense. I'm running stock 185/70R13 tyres all around, so the measurements should be more or less default values. Understood. FWIW, camber was out before this all started; the fronts were noticeably toed-in at the bottom and there was some edge wear you wouldn't expect to see on 2500-mile tyres. Also, a quick eyeball of the new springs vs. old showed about a 1.5-2" height difference with zero compression on either. Granted, the old ones have been compressed for God only knows how long, but it just didn't look quite right when both pairs were sitting on the floor next to each other. In any event, I'll know more tomorrow once it's back from surgery, but I really am wondering if maybe tired springs from a turbo (or something else) weren't installed at some point. This is speculation, but something just doesn't seem right about those old springs compared to the new ones. With you on that - none of mine ever have sat flat in the back either, but the rear's never been an issue. Neither has the front up until now, come to think of it. Just to clarify, I only care about why the nose is sitting so comparatively low in relation to my last two; pretty sure we're on the same page about that but just wanted to make certain.

These were $45 a pop. Not great, but not as horrible as I was expecting. It's in really good shape, though, so I figure it's worth it.

GD: just to let you know - I chickened out and ordered the coils from SOA (P/N 721045150 left & right) this morning. They're returnable, so assuming that the current ones are still usable the worst case scenario is that I'm out $25 for overnighting them. I figured that was better than finding out the old ones really are shot and having to open up the front end a second time. I'll know more tomorrow once it's all here; should hopefully have the Brat back on the road by the evening.

Understood. I think I was trying to figure out how to do the adjustment for the trailing arms - basically, getting ahead of myself. Went over there and took some measurements. Right & left front measured 2.25" tyre top to wheelarch bottom; right & left rear measured 4.5" tyre top to wheelarch bottom. There was approximately 0.9" of thread between the bottom of the torsion bar adjuster bolt head and the torsion bar. I did manage to get photos of the coils, but they turned out to be pretty well useless. I can post them if it helps, but given the angle I had to take them at and the inability to see the camer's screen during that process they're fairly indistinct.

Well... No I just did a quick check of a couple of threads, and I'm not sure it's something I can do prior to hitting the drop-dead date (Monday) for ordering springs. The vehicle's parked over at the mechanic's about 15 miles away and is completely undriveable right now (dead pressure plate). Any tips for checking it while I'm over there getting pictures tomorrow?

I thought about that, but it seems to sit about the same from comparing photos of both. Agreed on the lowering springs, but that's interesting about the turbo items. The previous owner had picked up a blue Brat for parts which was the recipient of an aborted EJ-22 drivetrain swap - and that particular Brat had started out its life as a turbo, IIRC. Kinda makes some more sense now. Fair enough. I'm leaning towards turbo springs being the most likely swap-out possibility at this point, though. In any event, I'll get some photos tomorrow and hopefully make things clearer. As much as I agree that there's no point in replacing them if not completely necessary, they just don't feel right either by eyeball or road feel. Not discounting any of the points you've raised, just clarifying where I'm coming from.

Good to know. On that note: This is where some of my overkill thinking comes in. This Brat sits a lot more nose-down than my last one - at least a good 2" or so; it's enough that the nose is below the centreline of the front wheels, and remember that that last Brat had non-adjustable KYB struts. Right now the struts are cranked all the way down, and some person at some point in its life kindly cut the bottoms off of the adjuster bolts so that there's no way to crank the spring mount back up. Also, given that the struts have adjusters, I'm guessing it's had maybe one set of replacement struts (if that) in 23 years and 120,000 miles. No lift planned for this one; I'm keeping it as stock as possible. Basically I just want to compensate for the couple of inches I lose at the front with the pushbar on trails; I'm not running it like I do the Jeep, but I am running it like it was intended for. Hm. Mkay. Food for thought. Thing is, with the ones I'm about to put in all the way down, I suspect I'm still going to have the same nose-down problems since the coils are what keep the nose up. It just occurred to me that I should get some photos of the coils as they are now; it may help to explain my mania for buying new springs, or at least give me a reality check on that particular idea. I'll put it on the list for tomorrow. Given that, is it possible that at some point someone could have put lowering springs in there from another model? I don't know if turbo or EA-82 springs would have that effect, but I'd be interested to know if it's a possibility. Of course, this is assuming that they weren't cut to achieve the same end result, but I'm calling that idea improbable for now.

Understood, and I really should have phrased my original reply better. What I meant to say was that the struts are always under compression to some degree. While the springs take the actual weight of the vehicle, shot springs will compound strut wear, while worn struts will help (to some degree) to hasten spring wear. I'm not saying that they'll cause it, just that they'll contribute to it. OK, that's good to know as I wasn't previously aware of it. I should probably also point out that I'm looking at this based on past projects with Jeeps where adding heavier bumpers, winches, etc. to the front end required beefier springs or adjustable spacers. I realise that that may not exactly translate out to a strut/coil combination, so I have probably been taking the minor overkill (read: possibly wrong) approach with this a bit. Got it, and thanks. One question: I'm planning on setting the struts to as close as I can get to their maximum height without binding the CVs; I've got a pushbar up front, so as much approach angle as I can get is a good thing. Given that this is what I'm going for, does it still sound reasonable to replace the coils? If they are slightly squished, it's not going to be an issue on-road, but I'd prefer to not have the coil drop out of the mount at the body under full axle droop. Fair enough, and I'm starting to come around to this idea. Which brings me on to one last question: is there a height range on the coil I can measure to see if they're within spec? I figure that the distance between the spring mount on the strut and the body should remain pretty constant, so should make for a reasonable indicator of how shot or not the springs are.

I'll throw another recommendation for them into the fray. I've been using them for about five or six years now and they've been able to find stuff for me for everything from my Jeep Cherokee to my Brats to Citroens. I think you might be referring to this link. It makes for some interesting reading regarding their philosophy towards selling auto parts, and is a large part of the reason why I don't mind waiting a few days for stuff to arrive from them.

Which is entirely possible, and I'm not dismissing the possibility. However, from eyeballing them and feeling what's going on with the front end, I suspect they may be somewhat squished. Here's why I'm looking at replacing them: My struts are shot, and appear to have been so for some time. I realise that the struts aren't load-bearing to anywhere near the same degree as the springs, but with them having been gone for as long as they have been it's probably caused the springs to have to work harder under suspension movement. Adding to this, A/C was added in to my Brat at some point, which put additional weight onto the front end; if the springs were already a little tired, that certainly would not have helped. I've also got a full-size spare under there now, and while that's a relatively minor weight addition (as well as being between the axles), it's one more thing to consider. On top of everything else, I'm having the clutch and both front CV axles (one blew out a boot, the other's about to) replaced on Tuesday, so while the tranny's dropped and the axles pulled I may as well have the struts done - and if the struts are coming out, it makes sense to do the coils as well. If my old coils are reusable, great - but if not, I'd rather have new ones on hand to drop in since return shipping on unneeded new ones is cheaper than having to drop it all a second time to replace them if I don't have them. Yeah... Our local dealer is f***ing useless. We've bought two cars from them and they treat us (and their other customers) like crap; we're taking the other two new Subs 40 miles away (next nearest dealer) for service because of their attitude. I'll try the good dealer on Monday, though. If you have recommendations on spring suppliers, I'd really appreciate it as Google's not being particularly helpful in that regard, though I suspect that's down more to me taking some semi-educated stabs at search criteria than anything else.

Does anyone have a source that can overnight new front coil springs for an '86 Brat? Thought I'd found them last week, then found out yesterday (Friday) at 4.15pm that the company I had been dealing with didn't actually have them in stock. Of course the front end is being taken apart on Tuesday and I can't change the window on this, so I need to order Monday and have them overnighted. SOA part numbers for them are apparently 721045150 and 721045160, though the latter may have been superceded by the former. Found plenty of them in Australia & NZ, but unless we've got a member down under flying into Dulles on Monday who could do me a huge favour I think I'm screwed on that score

Ah, cool. Didn't know that; I searched by the part number but only turned up one reference to it that didn't mention the adjusters. Weird - my local Autozone absolutely could (or would) not get them. Maybe it's a regional thing. Good to have clarification One question, though: does anyone have a source for the front coils? I cannot find them anywhere and need to order them Monday from a source that can ship overnight the same day if at all possible.