casm

If anyone else is looking for height-adjustable struts for an EA-81 Brat or hatch, I just received a pair of Monroe 71784 struts for my '86 Brat which have the adjusters. Experience with my '85 Brat taught me that the KYB units do not have the adjusters, which sucks if you have a pushbar or just want a little more clearance up front. For what it's worth, I got them from rockauto.com and their interchange guide just lists them as for an '82 to '89 DL or GL with no specific bodystyle given. IIRC, wagons and sedans used a longer-travel strut than the Brat or hatch, so my guess is that they may not work for either of the former.

Hey folks, I'm the guy who had the black Outback Wagon parked over in the Media area behind the Subaru tent on Saturday - someone gave me a shout of, "nice Outback!" as they were walking by while I was digging around in the cargo area, if that helps to place it. Anyway, it was good to bump into a few folks, even if it was briefly. We were tied up filming all day, and I never really got a chance to come back over and say hi properly. Hopefully I'll have time next year to drive the Brat up; it just wasn't on the cards this time since we had to lug three people plus gear up from VA. Of course, I'm not above accepting EJ-22 transplants, especially if it means the presence of another EA-81 won't cause offence to some

I could... If the adjuster bolts weren't headed . The bolts are all the way down, so that's pretty much where they're staying. I think I may have a line on some OEM struts, though, so we'll see if that ever pans out; if not, I may look into rebuilding these ones. The springs are kinda at the end of their lives as well, so that's not helping things either. If I ever find a job again, I'll figure it out once the first couple of paycheques hit. Thanks No real plans for modding it - it's nice having a driver that isn't modified (unlike my Jeep). I'd actually like to put the stereo and console back to stock at some point, and that's about it. Maybe an EJ-22 if the EA-81 ever goes south, but that would be about it. We were getting on-again, off-again rain that day as well, so the brown stuff was washing off pretty much as quickly as it came on. Weirdly enough, even the underbody was pretty clean at the pressure wash.

Mostly-stock '86 Brat - only mods seem to be the Gen 1 nudge bar at the front and modified S-10 rollbar in the rear. We got some snow last night that didn't stick as well as I was hoping for, so ended up doing the whole trail in 2WD which it handled just fine even with 3"-4" of snow and slick mud in a couple of hilly spots. This was its first dirt run since I got it two weeks ago, and didn't want to push it too hard given that I didn't know how it would do off-road mechanically, so just ran it up a graded fire trail. Very confident in it now, though. Really need to replace those front struts and coils at some point since it's seriously nose-down, but it'll have to wait until I'm working again - I got laid off on Friday, so Subaru parts purchases have been moved down the list in priority. Bigger pictures (and more of them) can be found here.

Wal-Mart lights on a modified S-10 rollbar (at least, that's what it is according to the previous owner - all I know is that it's not a stock rollbar). They basically work kinda OK, but I'm probably going to replace them with a set of Hella 500s I've got laying around.

Cool, thanks. Good to know. It didn't look like there was any way of monitoring whether the EGR valve was working or not, but I figured there might possibly be a vacuum check in there somewhere. Much appreciated!

I just bought an '86 Brat in really nice shape to replace the '85 I had in CA before moving to VA. The EGR warning light on the '86 is on. According to p.249 of the up-to-1988 edition of HTKYSA, you can reset the light with the following procedure: The procedure itself makes decent sense - but the part I'm not clear on is what happens after the blue connector is plugged into the green connector. Do I just leave them plugged together, or do I return the blue connector to the one it was originally plugged into? Testing showed that the EGR valve is actually shot, and the new one should be here in the next day or two; it'd just be nice to know if after moving the connectors around the light is permanently disabled or not. If it's on a timer I don't really care if it's gone for good, but if it can actually detect an EGR fault I'd like to have it working at least while the new one is bedding in in case something goes haywire.

Understood. But there's a kicker to this: See, that's the thing - I didn't get this part from the computer; the number was referenced by me from the printed Stant catalogue where the radiator caps live. While I know that that doesn't mean it's necessarily accurate, I'm also curious as to whether or not I have something in there that wouldn't apply to the 1985 model year in terms of stock specs.

This might sound like a stupid question, but I'm trying to figure out which radiator I have in my '85 Brat. I changed out the thermostat yesterday, and in the process of doing so noticed that it has a 16lb. radiator cap. This sounded high, so I went to the local Kragen and picked up what the book said was the appropriate 13lb. cap for my year - but that cap was way too small in diameter to fit when I compared the two. Dimensions of the cooling area are approximately 23.5"W x 2"D x 14.25"H. It has plastic tanks on both sides (not included in the measurements). The driver's side has a coolant overflow pipe and hose, but no bottle. There are what appear to be capped-off pipes for cooling an automatic transmission on the same side, which I don't have. My guess is that it's a three-row radiator vs. a stock two-row, but does anyone have any idea what it might be? I can post photos tomorrow if it helps. FWIW, it doesn't look like there's enough space for a second fan if I want to fit A/C - it won't clear the main pulley and water pump by at least a quarter- to half-inch.

If it helps to identify them, here're the parts that are going in on Friday. First, the transmission itself (ignore the 4WD shifter linkage on top of it): Next, the flywheel: Flexplate: Clutch (I have another identical one in *much* better shape): I don't know which models these are out of other than the gearbox, so any help with clarifying that is more than welcome.

Thanks for the pointers, folks. Going to answer some of the points brought up: Time and space. Basically, I've got a 'no working on cars in your parking space' clause in my lease agreement, and a neighbour who loves to complain about every little thing to the building management. She nearly got me booted out a couple of years ago for replacing a dead battery in my Jeep. Apparently I was supposed to have it towed to a dealer for that; unfortunately, the contract was technically on her side. I actually have an EA82 two-piece driveshaft, but it was the welding part that worried me - well, not so much the welding as getting the driveshaft centred. Didn't want to end up with driveline vibes and subsequent seal & bearing failures, etc. I have another flywheel, but no idea what it's out of. It has the marks Y5 10 K-3 cast into it, if that helps to identify it. Also, thanks for the paint can cap tips... May have to do that for a day or two if I can't get the shop to weld up the two-piece shaft.

Next Friday, the Brat goes in for its 5-speed swap and the current 4-speed (with 2.7 remaining synchros) is going to be turned into a boat anchor shortly thereafter. Time and space constraints mean it had to go to a shop for the work, but at least the guys I'm using have been good to me in the past. Anyway, I'm using Jerry's kit for the conversion, so it should be pretty straightforward for them. What I need to know before I bring it in, though: - Can I drive with the rear driveshaft removed? I need to have it lengthened (51" of tubing, IIRC) but don't want to have the car down for a couple of days while I do that since my Jeep's only semi-functional right now. Wouldn't use 4WD with it removed, but I'm concerned about the potential for oil loss either way. - Spacing the starter motor: use 90/1000" lock washers between it and the bellhousing to set it back from the flywheel. Is this correct? - Sanity check: use my existing pressure plate, but mate the 6-spring clutch disc from the 5-speed to it. Is there anything else I'm forgetting? It seems like there is, but can't quite put my finger on it.

It wouldn't surprise me in the least if this were the case. I've found a lot of stuff that was done right on it, but some other things that flat-out weren't. Cool, good to know. Any idea what brand they were, and did they include the adjustable spring perches or are those a separate part? Agreed on both counts. I've had some handling weirdness on the right-hand front since I got it and was figuring it was probably ball joints, but this is giving me some food for thought. Been a while since I've owned a front-drive vehicle, so my diagnostics in that department aren't as great as they once were Just went down and double-checked this; it is definitely the case. Thanks!

Having been spurred on by this thread and figuring that since I both own and can operate a 21mm open-end wrench, I decided to play around with cranking up the Brat's front suspension earlier. I'd been soaking it down in PB Blaster for a few days and thought I was ready to go when I noticed something interesting. Here's the driver's side; pay attention to the spring perch adjusters, and click for a larger view: I'm guessing that that looks normal. OK, now here's the passenger side (again, click for a larger image): So after having sat there going 'WTF?' to myself for a few seconds, I'm assuming that the adjusters have been sheared off (probably due to rust) at some point on the passenger side. Marvellous. Has anyone run across this before? Is there some secret way of replacing them that won't be a complete nightmare for one guy in a driveway with hand tools? I figured I'd try to grab a set from the next junkyard car that I see since the local dealer (assuming they can even get them anymore) are total jerks.

Interesting - that tread pattern seems to be pretty close to a number of other A/T tyres, but it's one of the few relatively-aggressive ones I've seen for Subaru rims that's actually on the market. Think I'll look into it for the (eventual) replacement of what I've got on there now...

It's a D30. One thing worth adding about the D30 vs. the D35: the D30 as used in front of the XJ-series Cherokee (and, I also believe, the YJ- and TJ-series Wranglers and ZJ-/WJ-series Grand Cherokees) were reverse-rotation; it'll be the most common front diff you'll find in your local Jeep graveyard. Never seen a reverse-rotation D35, but that doesn't mean they're not out there in something (and still crappy ).

Cheers - you just sold me on it. The 2nd-3rd gap was liveable, but 3rd to 4th seemed like they were oceans apart. I don't know if this is early senility creeping in, but the MV I owned previously seemed to have better-spaced ratios. Funny that you should mention those; I was looking at the USRM earlier and mourning the lack of photos for that specific thread. Improved stopping power aside, I hate dealing with drum brakes anymore - if there's a way to get them out of the loop, I'm entirely in favour of it. On the cards - I'm already plugged in to the local French car community, being a long-time owner of the same. Still trying to decide if I want to lift it or not, but since there are no more aggressive tyres available for 13" rims... We'll see. Have to sort out the crappy carb that can't reliably hold idle first, but yes Slated for the long-term, but given that it's Los Angeles, probably sooner rather than later. Baking under the T-tops doesn't seem terribly appealing Not to question your motives - but why not go with a later MPFI unit? Cheers, - casm.

Me neither, until we had one. I'm kind of a Kei-car fan - the idea of a small, fun, buzzy little car is really appealing, but one thing I've noticed about them is that only the roadsters are worth having. We got (as 'grey' imports) stuff like the Suzuki Cappuccino, Honda Beat, and Mazda AZ-1, all of which were decent for what they were (and I'd kill to have an AZ-1 here). But the more orthodox models (which we officially got in small numbers) were complete junk. Not that I'd advise against driving a Vivio if you ever get the chance; hell, you should do it just to be able to say that you have - and for the opportunity to prove me wrong. While I might not like it, it could well be your cup of tea, so to speak Thanks She's someone who has owned nothing but Hondas since 1976, and bought the OBW after driving it on my recommendation. Scared the hell out of me that she bought it, knowing that if it didn't match up to the Hondas in her estimation I'd be on the hook in a big way - but she loves it. Told me it's the best car she's ever owned, so I'm thrilled that not only is she happy with it but that I made the right choice

Thanks - checked on those, and although I'm leaning towards the 5-speed conversion, if it turns out to be cost-prohibitive I'll definitely look back into them. Hm. Interesting. After a few days of driving it around, I'm fairly convinced that the synchro on 3rd is basically shot - double-declutching and rev-matching works about two-thirds of the time, but it's definitely not as it should be. This is why I'm leaning towards the swap: if the tranny's going to have to be torn apart anyway to do the synchro (something I don't have time for since this is my only vehicle currently), the swap may be a better all-around option.

Uhhh... I don't want to sound like I'm dumping on the shindig, but you do not want a Vivio. We had one as an insurance company rental for a couple of months in 1994 after my mom's 1987 Civic was totalled. There's no other way to describe it besides 'horrible'. Pressing down on the accelerator caused a great deal of racket to come from somewhere up near the front of the car, though it never actually seemed to go faster. The Kei-car dimensions would've been fine for a super-small car if it weren't as tall as it was: the resultingly-high centre of gravity coupled with poor suspension and steering meant that high winds were nervewracking, and God help you if you had to actually swerve to avoid a collision. The interior gave a whole new meaning to the term 'flimsy', and the overall fit-and-finish was inexcusable. We took to calling it the Screaming Green Toilet - a nod towards the raucous engine and the fact that it looked like an Andy Gump knocked over on top of a skateboard. Stuck with it for nearly three months while the insurance company screwed around, the kindest comment it attracted from my family was that nobody needed a new car *this* badly. My dad even took to driving my 1986 Renault 5 in preference to it, and there was usually familial discontent on the horizon if anyone came downstairs to find that the Subaru's keys were the only ones available. Note that my mother now drives a 2007 Outback wagon and loves it, and I'm happy in my rusty '85 Brat. But 'different' and 'good' are two entirely separate things, and the Vivio fails massively at the latter.

I took out the passengers and cinderblocks used to dissuade tailgaters on the freeway - should I put them back in? Interesting; and the Rubicon shots are awesome My main reason for wanting to avoid doing a lift for the moment is to hold off until I can figure out how to gear, power, and brake the larger-diameter tyres. Not that I don't like the EA-81, but experience taught me the hard way about the stresses lifts can add to a drivetrain, and if I'm going to do it I want to do it right the first time. Either an MPFI EA-82 or EJ-22 sounds like just the ticket...

Don't have one, unfortunately. Got the service log, but not the one that's actually useful. Can't find anything in the Haynes manual detailing it either. Cool; my memory's not as flaky as I thought it was I searched, but couldn't find the info - is there a link anywhere detailing how to do this? Good point. Still interested in finding the instructions, though - anyone able to help with that?

And no, I'm not proposing anything involving .50BMG or Caterpillars Right now I'm on the fence as to whether or not I want to lift my Brat. Changing the driving dynamics isn't the concern so much as the regearing, etc. that would also be involved - but I would like to improve the approach angle. This got me to thinking about what would be involved with lifting only the nose an inch or two to level it out with the rear while I figure out if I really want a 4"/3" lift. Is it as simple as springs, shocks, and struts? I sort of vaguely remember the owner's manual in my '86 mentioning that it was possible to adjust the height by rotating a nut on top of the shock tower, but since I haven't owned that vehicle for a decade I'm not sure if this is accurate or not. Anyone have any experience with this? I need shocks anyway, so doing them plus the struts and springs while I'm in there would make sense.

And that's on a good day. My experience in the Jeep world has me convinced that 31" is as large as you should go with a D35, period - I've seen a couple of them shear axle shafts on the trail running 33" tyres. I'll admit that this is in 4.0-litre Cherokees and Wranglers which are putting out considerably more power than a lot of our Subarus are, though. You'd probably be OK. Probably. Maybe I'm just wary of that particular axle, but I wouldn't do it. The D30 would honestly probably be a better bet, and can be found all over the place. I'm running one that's electrically-locked with 4.11 gears in the front of my Cherokee and have no problems with it. It'd probably turn them, but I'd look into an EJ swap ahead of tyres over 28" on a Sube. If you're really going to be wheeling it the way it sounds like you are, you'll want fuel injection as well as the extra power. Once that's in, work on the gears and tyres. Edit: I forgot to include a link to the Dana 35 Tribute Page. If that doesn't convince you that this might not be the best axle to be starting with, bear in mind that products like this exist to help you get home from the trail where it breaks...

Yep, TB's the easiest. Unless you're planning on cleaning the IAC itself at the same time, the TB's probably your best bet. Thanks!