jamal

yeah they'll fit perfectly. 02+ seats also fit but result in a raised seating position.

Unless you can get it done under warranty, a dealer is going to charge you $600-$800. I just changed the wheel bearings on my friend's mazda tonight, and it's pretty simple, assuming you have access to a press and an assortment of large sockets . Here's some very good wheel bearing info: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=987976 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=787070 Or, if you want to upgrade and never worry about the bearings again, you can go with the completely bolt on 05+ sti conversion: http://www.6gunracing.com/products.asp The spindles and hubs are modified to fit non-stis.

it's probably related to your right foot.

Ball joints are only $30 from subarugenuineparts.com as for replacing it yourself, there are about a zillion threads around here filled with tips. This one, for example, actually has a link to the service manual page.

93 Legacy, 196k. Just the usual maintenance.

Don't you already have like seven threads about buying a new car? Is there some reason you can't contain everything to one? All the advise you get is spread all over the place and hard to keep track of.

seafoam

http://www.cars101.com/subaru_svx.html

If it is a VTD outback, you get a much better awd system. Instead of little clutches that sort of lock up to transfer power rearward you get a fancy planetary center diff thingy that is a lot better at sending torque to the rear.

firstly read the thread at legacycentral I linked to. Secondly be a little more specific with your questions. New wrx stuff sort of fits with some work, but not very well and I wouldn't recommend it.

This should give you a pretty good baseline on what's out there and what things cost. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=33431

the sti has stiffer control arms and stiffer bushings. The fact that yours aren't brand new doesn't help anything either, especially if they're leaking (rear bushings are fluid filled). The front bushing doesn't flex as much. I replaced my rear control arm bushing with a whiteline alk. It's a stiffer urethane bushing that also alters the suspension geometry slightly for better front end grip while turning and accelerating. I really noticed a difference in braking responsiveness and stability due to the added stiffness. It is a bit harsher when you hit expansion joints and whatnot.

warped rotors come from unevenly torquing the lug nuts, which it sounds like has been happening with your car. It's also probably the reason some of the nuts come loose. Clean the studs off with a wire brush, torque to 65-80lb-ft, and you won't have to worry about anything. warped rotor tech paper: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml

low brake fluid top it off and push the rubber dealie back up into the cap and it should go away. However, low fluid generally indicates low pad level.

If you go down to the bottom of that post, it shows the d-plate numbers for 1-pots and 2-pots depending on year. They are not the same. No Legacy L had 2-pots until like 2000. however, I think I read somewhere that a guy had put a 1-pot caliper on a 2-pot bracket. So maybe they'll fit, but I doubt it. I'm pretty sure you can get Hawk HPS or EBC yellowstuff for a 93 legacy, which are both good. I ditched my stock brakes awhile ago.

here's a nice thread that goes over pretty much every problem that could occur while changing them. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1268800 I had a hard time getting them out of the control arm, but they popped right out of the knuckle.

check and see if there are stored codes. You can have one without the light being on. You might also want to find a multimeter and test things like the MAF and coilpack.

you probably have the arrow aligned with the belt on the crank. If you bought the belt at a dealership, the belt is right. The marks on the gears are right. Pull the fans, take off the belt, and re-do it. As long as all the marks are lined up with the belt it will work.

by hub, do you mean the actual hub the wheel bolts to, or the whole spindle assembly? Because the drum and disc backing plates, which press onto the spindle, are different. If you don't swap the entire spindles with backing plates and the e-brake it's a whole lot of work.

yeah it's not centered because your mechanic didn't install it centered. He has to go back, remove the steering shaft, center the rack, and center the wheel, and adjust the tie rods.

RE960s are some of the the best all-seasons out there. The Turanzas aren't going to give you much performance but will be softer and quieter.

I had 205/55-16, which is slightly taller, on my 93 with stock suspension without any rubbing. You should be fine.

I don't think there were any turbo 2.5s until 2004.

it's a high temp synthetic grease. Also the last time I asked a Subaru mechanic he said you don't need to re-pack them but he does anyway.

not true. New Subaru bearings come packed with acceptable grease. There's mention of it in an endwrench article somewhere.