fredrogers

Well the drivers side window in my 87 gl wagon is acting funny. When I try and roll it up with the hand crank it will not go. It will go down just fine. But now the window is not lining up with the car door at all. I can almost fit my whole hand out the window in the "up" position. It goes up far enough but it tips out. I have a parts car I can get what I need (I hope) from, but if any one has some good advice on windows I need it. Do you think it is just "off track" and I can just put it back on? Or is there some part that has broke and needs to be replaced? Thanks for the help! -=fred=-

I had a similar problem when I got my 87 gl wagon. The biggest thing stopping my heat was the cable on the temp adjuster. It was broke behind the dash. Since I did not have a replacement in the works I just grabbed the cable end and pulled it up to full heat. The next thing was my restore pack, but that was not a big deal I just have full fan and off. You may also want a 192 tstat. That extra 10 deg. can make a difference in cold weather. You could even hold on to the old one to swap in for the summer. Also if you are still having problems keeping warm you can put some card board in front of the radiator, only block about half of it. This will decrease you engine cooling thus increase the temp of the heater core. Hope this helps! -=fred=-

I do not plan on doing any other work to the engine. I need to just handle one problem at a time. I have a carbed 87' wagon with no ac, but it dose have power steering. I "think?" it will be easiest to pull the motor. If any one has experiences they would like to share it would be greatly appreciated. -=fred=-

Thanks for the advice. This project intimidates me but, I if I can do this I can do anything. -=fred=-

It still could be some thing in the fuel filter. After you try the heat in your gas, if you are still having problems it is easy and cheap to replace the fuel filter. It also seem that the gas stations pull more junk from their tanks in the winter. -=fred=-

I am sorry I do not know. But I think you may have posted this in the wrong forum. No worries though. You can just cut a paste your question and start a new thread on the New Generation of Subarus board. Hope you find what you looking for. -=fred=-

D@mn it. I was hopping to avoid that. Thanks for the help! -=fred=-

Well I tried to get my wagon back on the road today. But to no avail. I tightened the nut on the end of the clutch cable as far as it would go. The clutch pedal is really stiff now. When I press down on the clutch I can see the fork move back about 1 - 2 inches and the fork shakes and there is a whining nose, really high pitched not very loud, as longs as I push the pedal down. I still can't get in in any gear. Any ideas? Does this mean my clutch is bad or my throw out bearing? Or could it be that I still have problems with my clutch cable? Thanks for the help! -=fred=-

Thanks for the tip. I guess my old sub only has one. -=fred=-

Great looking car! I hope to find one that clean some day. -=fred=-

I looked a little harder and I saw that the Teflon lining of the clutch cable is coming out. It looks like it might have been stopping my clutch from fulling engaging. I trimmed off the white mess and hope to finish adjusting the clutch cable on saturday. Hope that all it was. -=fred=-

Well I recently put in a new mechanical temp sensor on my 87 gl wagon and the adaptor nut that goes into the block says: M16x1.5. Hope that helps! -=fred=-

I have a 87 gl wagon 4wd 5sp. Well here is my sad story: I jumped in my wagon to run and get some gas. When I depressed the clutch it made this high pitched "whirring" noise. When I let off the clutch it stopped. After about a mile of driving it stopped making the noise. After I got back in my car it would not go in to gear. So I turned the motor off and put it in gear and jumped into motion. I can get it to shift, barely, if I time it right and push hard on the stick. So I am thinking maybe the throw-out bearing or clutch adjustment? I tried to adjust my clutch by tightening the 13mm nut on the end of the clutch fork. When I do this the nut will just spin back to it original position. Is there a good tip to adjust my clutch? Or is it my throw-out bearing gone bad? If so how hard is it to replace? Thanks! -=fred=-

Another good tip that may seem obvious is to scrap all your windows. I see too many people out the that only scape a little strip right in front of the driver. This is bad. You want to be able to watch out for other drivers from all sides. -=fred=-

I changed out mine for a new one a few months ago. It was easy to get at. I pulled the plastic panel off the is right below the glove box. This exposed the blower motor. IIRC it had 4 10mm bolts holding it place and one of them also held the resistor pack in place. A replacement motor was 35 ish from checkers. -=fred=-

I recently changed my water pump out. It was not that bad. I used Miles Fox's write up on it to help me out. Thanks Miles! The pictures don't work, but once I got my head under the hood I could see what he was talking about. My install went well. The only set back was when I tried to remove the old water pump I could not figure out how to get it around the accessory bracket. I ended up taking it off so I could have better access. On the manuals, I bought my Chilton's from the local Checkers and a good friend of mine bought his Haynes from Amazon for $5. Hope this helps! -=fred=-

Man That sucks Tracy. What about fumigating the car with a poison bomb? Of course then you will need to find the dead mouse. I also like the trap idea. Then you know where the little critter is. -=fred=-

Very nice. Is that new carpet? If so, did you find a kit or did you make it your self? If not, wow it is in great shape! -=fred=-

Part time 4wd dose not have a center diff. This means that when you are in 4wd an equal amount of power is going to both axles. In a Full time 4wd there is a center diff. that lets the axles get different amounts of power. This is why in a full time 4wd on pavement the front and back wheels do not fight each other. But for off-road, the part time is better and this is why some full time 4wd have a center diff. lock. On semi-icy roads the full time is nice because you don't have to think about it as much. -=fred=-

Here is a link to the gauge I bought. Part #: 6142 -=fred=-

I am glad you got it off. That would suck to not be able to change your oil. -=fred=-

I went down to my local checkers and got a cheap mechanical gauge. Also be sure that it has a metric adaptor for it; I had the checker's guy open up 3 of them to be sure a got one that would fit in the threaded hole where the factory sending unit was. But if I where to do it again, I would get the one with the longer heat tubing for the sending unit. Mine was not long enough for a good mounting location so it ending up next to the center of the dash just down from the radio. I did find an easy way to route the hose though the passenger side gromet. To get a new factory one is $$. To get a new electric gauge is $$. Plus my problem is that my dash is unhappy (all sorts of electrical gremlins). Sooo... I just got a mechanical gauge and it's doing the job great! -=fred=-

What about some PB blaster? I have had good luck with that and stubborn bolts. -=fred=-

Thanks for the advice! So far I think she has been doing good. The temp stays in the 180-190 range. My heater is working much nicer and she warms up a lot better in the morning. -=fred=-

Thanks for the good info. I just changed out my water pump, t-stat, and radiator, so I wanted to know if I still had air in my cooling system. -=fred=-