fredrogers

I do believe that the "1600" in the name means that it is the 1.6ltr. On my wagon there is a engine code on the front of the motor that says "ea81" there should be something similar on yours. Hope this helps! -=fred=-

I think that would look super sweet! -=fred=-

My 87 gl clicked so bad I thought for sure my oil pump had gone. I used some seafoam and that took care of my problems. -=fred=-

That would be great. I thought that the power would just go from the fuse box to the gauges. If there is a common place all the power, then that might cure my car. Thank you! -=fred=-

The oil sender unit is "large" it looks (on my car) kind of like a black mushroom about half the size of my fist. On the temp, I got out my tester and got about 50 ohms of resistance between ground and the unit. So I think the sender is at least working. On the gas gauge. Do I access the sender unit from under the back seat? or is it under the car? Thanks for the help. -=fred=-

Very nice! I will make a stop by radio shack on my way home. Thank you. BTW this car has had a donner motor put in it before I bought it, could there be a wiring harness unplugged? Thanks again. -=fred=-

That would be cool to have a hidden deck and just some wires hanging out of the dash. That reminds me of an old SNL skit that had this junker of a car from the out side, but posh on the inside so that crooks would not give it a secound look. Sorry to hear about your deck. -=fred=-

I have a 1987 GL wagon. I love it! The entire time I have owned it the only gauges that work are the tach and the speedo. The Oil pressure, temp, volts, and gas gauge just sit lifeless and still. I have taken the dash off and tried to see if I can find any lose / broken wires, but have not seen any jump out at me. Could there be a ground missing to my dash? Or a power wire? I did check the fuses and I could not find any that are blown. Also, I am not sure if it is related, but the rear defrost dose not work. The lights on the dash seem to work fine, expect the defrost, but the door indicators and 4wd lights work well. Any good tips for trouble shooting gauges would be greatly appreciated. -=fred=-

Nice . -=fred=-

Well I got my carb cleaner out and check the vacuum houses. I did not see any leaks, but I did wiggle them around. It is idleing better now. It no longer quits at stop signs. Thanks for the help. -=fred=-

I know there is a spring to pull the clutch back out. You may want to check that and make sure it is moving freely. -=fred=-

Darn. I was hoping to find one in a junk yard. -=fred=-

Nice trade! -=fred=-

I will get out my carb cleaner and check out my vacuum lines. Thanks for the fast reply. I will also give the plug wires a good once over. BTW I was also thinking it might be my fuel filter. I looked under the hood but could not find it. Can any one give me a heads up on where to find it? Thanks, -=fred=-

I have had my 87 gl wagon for about a month now. Up until recently it has always idled at 1000 rpms. 2 days ago it started to idle really low and die at stop signs. If I give it a little gas then she will stay running. When I am parked I have to keep my foot on the gas to keep her running. She will go down the road well, but just not idle. Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! -=fred=-

Very Nice. -=fred=-

I do belive the fan turns off when you pull the key. Just a side note; I am having a problem with my fan never turning on, but the +12 side shows power, it is like the ground is not conncected. Dose the thermast controled switch control the ground? -=fred=-

I am not sure on the oil problems, but I would look in to that first if it were me. On number 4, the blower motor it might be one of two things. First I would check out the fan switch. Some times it can wear out and not make contact on a few settings. You can take the dash off and pull the switch out and take it apart. You may just need to clean the contacts on the first 2 settings, or adjust the contact points so the touch. The second thing it could be is the resisters that control the fan speeds. Under the passenger side dash just next to the blower motor is the resister pack. You can take that out and see if there is any damage to the resisters with a mulit-meter. Hope this helps! -=fred=-

Well I put some seafoam in the carb last night and wow there was alot of smoke. My son thought it was great! I then put about 1/3 of the botle in the crank and I am going to chagne the oil this week end. Thanks for the great replys! -=john=-

Thanks for the good info. -=fred=-

Thanks for the quick reply. I read the bottle and it says "One pint treats 10 quarts of oil (Avg. 1 1/2 oz. per qt.) It did not say if you needed to drive around with it or idle or for how long. After doing a search some one said to drive for 100 miles with it, I was not sure if that meant I needed to drain some oil or just add and drive. -=fred=-

Well my 87 gl wagon has been making some HLA noise on and off for about a week. This car had been sitting for a long time before I bought it. I have no idea how well it was maintained. Two day after my first oil change it stated making HLA noise. I tried draining some oil and adding AFT to the crank case and let it run for 20 mins. HLA noise gone, for 1 day. This weekend I drove about 200 miles with no noise and now only get noise ever once in while. Some times when I first start up and some times not. I would like to "clean" the HLAs with some seafoam, but I don’t know if I can add it to the motor with it full of oil or if I need to drain some out? Any advise / comments are greatly appreciated. Thanks! -=fred=-

Nice RX. -=fred=-

Sweet! I was not looking forward to tapping out the fitting. -=fred=-

Thank you for the great info. I will look for the holes in the fire wall. -=fred=-