mitch184

I just ordered a 12" electric fan for my 87 turbowagon, it is only 2.5" thick. Unless my measurements are way off it will fit. It only drains 6 amps but pulls 1200+ cfms. It will be arriving in a couple of days and then I could tell you exactly if it fits.

I am going to redo my exhaust on my 87 Turbowagon and I came across something interesting. The exhaust port on the heads measures roughly 2 inches in diameter. The exhaust pipe is large in outside diameter but the walls are very thick and the inside diameter is only about 1.25-1.5 inches. Could I bore this out to get better flow or would it hurt the turbo? I also want to keep the existing downpipe but want to modify it. The flange bolting to the turbo is a horrible design. I was thinking maybe a second pipe could be welded on so the wastegate exhaust could be separated from the rest and introduced further down the exhuast. Much like some WRX downpipes. I just wanted to know if anyone had messed with the downpipe. Also I wanted to know how hard it would be to cut the cat in the downpipe and replace it with straight pipe. I think i have way too much time on my hands but i was wondering if these mods would work. thanks

Does anyone know what the airgap does on the disty. I noticed that turbos had an air gap, but n/a 's don't.

i found a 2wd xt rubo distributor. I think it is a 87 (the same year as my 87 trubo wagon), is there a way to tell. I know 87's are different from surrounding years. # ofvacuum ports, advances may be different. also even though its a 2wd turbo, does it still have the better curve because its 2wd.

i was looking to get brighter bulbs for my 87 GL wagon. I am looking on ebay and i found a buld that puts out 135/125 watts while only drawing the normal 65/45. It is a 4800k bulb. Then i found another bulb that draws the same but puts out 7000k. What is the difference. Does the higher amount k equal more watts. I am lost and am wondering which bulb is better?

i've got an extra 89 spfi engine that came w/ a oil pressure gauge around and was wondering if i could put the oil pressure sender into my 87 mpfi turbo. Then just run an aftermarket electronic gauge off of that one. The warning lamp would probably hook up the same to the mpfi wouldn't it. Is this a valid way of doing it or am i way off and missing something?

Then how hard is it to swap it into a turbo?

Do you have the spider intake off a turbo? Or is there a difference between the spider intake for a turbo and for a n/a? Do they interchange?

I noticed that GL10 turbowagons with the digital dash don't have an oil pressure gauge or readout. I was wondering why this is and if you could hook up an electronic gauge easily. Does the motor still have the hookup on the block for it, or is that missing too. Just a thought.

i have a buddy with an ea81, who failed emission(in washington) He had way too much carbon monoxide %. I believe this is the unburnt fuel measurement. Is this fixable and if so, how? thanks

yes, it is a competent machine shop. So i should go with the 5 angle valve grind. Is it make a big difference or just a little. im just trying to be on a rather low budget. thanks

i've had to buy a new head for my ea82t and am getting the valves matched. Both heads are apart and wondering if i should get a 3 angle valve grind done? I know it does wonders on small block chevy's, but i don't know about on subes. anyone ever done this?

is there a general operating temperature for these cars, or is it different for every car?

why would you choose the 180? yes, i got the big tube saab 900 i/c. i guess it was an upgrade. there are a couple of saab 9000 i/c's on ebay but they are far bigger in size. I believe almost 25 in. wide. i was made to believe that for our size motors it is better to stay on the smallish side for intercooler size. am i right?

ive got a 87 turbo wagon, i was wondering if you can run an ea82t too cold? Is there any negatives to running it cold? I plan on running a 160 thermostat, saab intercooler, 12" electric fan 1200cfm.(should i wire it to run all the time or come on at a higher temp?), cold air intake, 13 lbs. boost, and 2.5 exhaust all the way back. I don't know if this will be overkill or just right. I live in west. washington so i doesnt get real cold. any input?

sorry i cant help with the vacuum but i had a question relating. In the Hayne's manual it says that all turbo's have an air gap in the distributor. But a spfi or n/a mpfi does not have an air gap. i was wondering what the air gap is, and how you can still run an spfi 2wd on a turbo 4wd?

is there any difference between the wires on a 87 turbo mpfi and a 89 n/a spfi?

i've got an 87 turbowagon and was wondering if disconnecting the sensor would work with the hot air wire MAF. What thermostat are you running, im going to run a 160 if that makes any difference.

i'v heard the limp mode caused by disconnecting the 02 sensor makes the engine run richer than normal. Has anyone with a turbo tried to just disconnected the o2 sensor permanantely? just a thought.

i was just trying to keep the spare tire weight up front for less understeer in the snow. Do you think there would be too much of a loss of boost running a front mounted intercooler?

i am looking to get an intercooler was wondering which intercooler would best suit the job. The starion intercooler looks a lot bigger than the Saab and vw. does this equal cooler temps or lost boost pressure. i was also wondering if anyone has tried installing really low profile electric fans behind the radiator and then mounting the intercooler between the fan and the engine. This seems to me like an efficient place if there is enough room. i know flex a lite makes a fan that is only 2 inches deep. any thoughts?

the passenger head on my 87 turbowagon is toasted and failed the pressure test. i was searching for a new head and came across shuck's. i've heard shuck's isn't the greatest reman but for $180 its hard to beat. it also comes with 12000 mile warranty. i don't know how much napa runs but was wondering if anyone had any experience with shuck's remans or just any advice at all. im in the everett, wa area. thanks

so with the bypass valve, the released air would be sent back into the intake. but would it be into the intake before or after the MAF. If after, would that let you boost higher than 9 psi. without hitting the fuel cut off? just a thought.

i had cracks in my 87 ea82 t heads and was wondering if they were 3rd gen or 2nd. What year does 3rd gen start and do they swap into 2nd gen.

i was wondering what intercooler and bypass valve you are using? Is there a setup where i can take the i/c and bypass off the same car or do i piece it together like the i/c off a saab and the bypass valve off of a volvo?