paulpicard

I got a Gates branded t-stat from my local independent parts store (Macs) for $35.

Concur on the timing belt - mine (92 EA82) failed due to age and seized idler last month. Of course it did this at 120 kmh on the freeway at 4 PM Sat. a hundred fifty klicks from home. Lost weekend indeed!! I guess I was lucky to coast off the exit and find a shop willing to stay open and wait for the towtruck, as well as having the shop owner pull the covers to diagnose the problem. Not to mention the fact he was OK with working on Subarus, and had me on the road Monday afternoon. Yes this is a plug for Total Automotive in Chilliwack BC. An honest shop.

"You shouldn't be plugging vacuum lines unless you know what they do." Roger that - I opened a huge can of worms a few years ago when I rebuilt the carb on my 84, and had not mapped out the lines prior to disassembly. What a PITA to sort out afterwards. Also, don't get scared of the smpi - I think it's actually more user-friendly than my 84 Hitachi carbed unit, after doing the research here.

The dist. is clamped with 2 bolts - you'll see them just below the outside bottom edge of the cap, opposite each other. Loosen them and rotate the complete dist. But if you don't have a timing light you won't know what's happening. Also, I believe you need to connect the diagnostic plugs to lock out the computer advance and aim for 20 degrees advance. On my Loyale, these are the 2 green plugs flapping (disconnected) in the breeze near the brake booster. When you're done, disconnect them again - they are supposed to be that way. Check the previously mentioned possibilities for vacuum leaks as well. Spray some WD40 at all the vac. line connections you suspect (one line at a time)- if the revs change you've found a leak.

EA82 it is, should have made it clear. 2 bolts loosened fine, so I'll go find my brass drift and the b.f.h. Thanks GD

Went to check and adjust timing yesterday only to find the dist. wouldn't move at all, even with both bolts backed off plenty. Tried the hammer and drift persuader, but when it didn't budge, I thought maybe I'd overlooked something here. Anyone? (Timing is 20' so it's OK for now)

One more tip if you need to remove the hub - don't waste a lot of time on a stubborn main attach bolt. I just put a nutsplitter on it after it came unwelded and replaced it with a new bolt and nut.

That red wagon got a grey interior? If so, I need a tailgate trim panel plus a glove compartment door, as well as an intact rear wiper assy, a clock, and possibly a radio as the s----y aftermarket one in my 92 Loyale is just that.

92 Loyale 4wd EA82 5 speed wagon. Minus 20 C (about 2 below for you Luddites) this morning. IAC decides to take the day off, cranking speed is sluggish, block heater doesn't have a plug on it, it starts but I gotta feather the gas for 5 minutes or so before I get a steady 1200 RPM fast idle, by now the w/shield is frosty inside,still haven't gotten the cooling system to where there's any heat on a cool day, let alone this morning, can't use the left rear door cause the weatherstripping has torn out of the door bottom from being frozen to the body, not a chance I'll lock any door or t/gate until spring, tires were square, rear brakes groaned and struts were solid as I pulled out of the drive, forget shifting for another 2 blocks, clock only works after 1 hour of fullbore heater, and I don't even live in a really cold place like Missoula, but I love my Subaru!!

Here's how to plumb a universal washer pump without exhuming the stocker from the fenderwell:)20-2008, 03:51 PM paulpicard http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/images/statusicon/user_online.gif vbmenu_register("postmenu_694406", true); USMB Regular Join Date: Oct 2003 City: Princeton BC State: International Posts: 108 iTrader: (0) Vehicles: 84 wagon, 92 Loyale wagon Photos Re: 92 Loyale windshield washer GD, thanks; you're right. For anyone else out there with a bad Loyale washer pump, the red/white power and black ground wires can be accessed through the same hole in the fender well that the stock pump outlet hose comes out of - just aft of the airbox. I needed long-nose pliers to grab them, but there's enough slack in the main harness to allow about 3" of wire through the hole. I cut them and mounted a new Trico Universal washer pump right next to the airbox and spliced in the red/white and ground wires. The stock hose fits the Trico inlet, and I used the hose that came with the kit for the outlet. No need to go inside the inner fender liner and remove the old pump, the Trico pulls right through it and is a pretty decent unit. Model 11-100 (or WP-300) at your local parts store, around $20 including hose, wiring, and bits and pieces. And get this: it's actually "Made in U.S.A."!!! Attached Imageshttp://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/images/attach/jpg.gifTrico washer.JPG (38.7 KB, 3 views) Last edited by paulpicard : 01-20-2008 at 04:38 PM.

GD, thanks; you're right. For anyone else out there with a bad Loyale washer pump, the red/white power and black ground wires can be accessed through the same hole in the fender well that the stock pump outlet hose comes out of - just aft of the airbox. I needed long-nose pliers to grab them, but there's enough slack in the main harness to allow about 3" of wire through the hole. I cut them and mounted a new Trico Universal washer pump right next to the airbox and spliced in the red/white and ground wires. The stock hose fits the Trico inlet, and I used the hose that came with the kit for the outlet. No need to go inside the inner fender liner and remove the old pump, the Trico pulls right through it and is a pretty decent unit. Model 11-100 (or WP-300) at your local parts store, around $20 including hose, wiring, and bits and pieces. And get this: it's actually "Made in U.S.A."!!!

Thanks, GD; I'll get to it tomorrow, hopefully, and report if successful.

Anyone know where to find the washer pump wire (red/white according to Haynes) on a Loyale? I want to hook up a new pump but can't see any evidence of a red/white in the wiper motor harness, and of course the washer reservoir and pump are buried inside the fender - a place I'm not going until late spring!!

Well, not quite, but a hairdryer did the trick - aimed it at the back of the bottle and it took 5 minutes. Lots of winter fluid in there now. Cougar, haven't gone any further with the horn issue, although I thought there was a relay also. Whatever, if the horns are toast I'll just bolt the old Dodge horns I have to a more accessible place. I got a feeling the washer bottle might get relocated one day as well. There's no shortage of space to mount this stuff under the hood - why Subaru chose to bury them is a mystery

Jeez, thanks - that's encouraging:eek: :-\ I had another thought - is it possible that the pump could freeze (due to no antifreeze mix in the bottle) and therefore not operate at all?? (no noise?)

94Loyale, I went through the exact same scenario you are going through . I don't have any j/y's within 200 miles that have Suby stuff, though. Wound up pulling the rusty arm/hub assy and bringing it to our (old-school) machinist. He arc-welded a bead inside the ring-nut. When that cooled, it shrunk and unscrewed with nothing more than a pair of channellocks. Of course a new ringnut was required (minor $$ at the Suby store 100 miles away) Last resort, I know, but it worked.

Hi again. Well, not only do I still have no horns, but my w/shield washers quit just in time for winter, (not to mention my clock fix only works when cabin temps hit 60+) I can't hear the pump so decided to check it out,(after making sure the bottle was filled with fresh washer fluid) only to find the reservoir and pump seem to be buried inside the r/h front fender. My Haynes manual makes no reference to this, so how do I access the pump without popping the r/f wheel and fender liner??

Hey daeron, I knew you were kidding:) . I grew up in the Prairies and Montreal, and when I moved to the Wet coast years ago, I promptly forgot about things like snow tires and ice scrapers. 37 years later, here I am back in the hills looking at snow-covered evergreens and buying big plastic shovels. At least a 4wd Soob doesn't much care about that stuff, exept for the frozen door seals.

"this "winter" thing you people talk about is utterly FASCINATING....." Thanks a lot, pal! Seriously, what happens is when the interior of the car is warm, any snow/ice around the door opening will melt. You park the car, the ambient temps. are below freezing, and overnite the moisture on the glass/weatherstrip freezes so when you go to open the door next day, guess what happens?

Thanks much. I'll do that a.s.a.p. as we had a severe thaw here but going back below freezing tomorrow.

OK, now we're in Princeton, we have 4 real seasons, and I had forgotten what below-freezing does to (92 Loyale)frameless glass and weatherstripping. I have Armoralled the rubber since, but didn't help much. Any advice??

nuclearbacon (where the hell did you get THAT moniker??) glad to hear you got it done, but could you tell me the sequence that you did it in? Please? I'm very confused after this discussion.

Thanks, all. gd, I used the term "gremlins" just to indicate my frustration at the intermittent nature of some issues. I know there are fixes for them and I will indeed follow everyones very helpful advice. Your clock fix makes sense!! Cougar, the green-black to the horn button is the same as mine so I'll go from the fuse and hook up some Dodge horns I have laying around.

Heartless, (or anyone) can you give me a clue as to the (accessible) location and color code of the horn harness? Might not be the same as my 92 but I'm thinking the location wouldn't be too different than earlier EA-82's

Daeron, thanks. Yes this gives me a starting point. I have a timing light. I assume the 20 deg. BTDC with the green plugs connected is the only adjustment - the computer doing the rest?. I will check the other things out as well. Battery cables are cheap maintenance, of course. Are there any other body groung points I should check? As for the clock, it'll be the last thing I spend any time on, but thought it might be an indicator of other electrical issues. Thanks again