paulpicard

PCD? Caught me out on that one as well. Common term in North America is "bolt circle" and is usually given as the amount of bolts followed by the diameter. i.e. 4 bolts on a 140mm circle, or 4 on 140. Uncommon size, but Peugeot used the same size, and you would likely have access to more used Peugeot stuff in the UK than we do here.

Thanks to all - I was pretty sure it was the m/c. Just need to find a warm place to work on it now. :-\

Hi. The pedal will sink to the floor, but only under steady, LIGHT, pressure, a firm push gives a firm pedal and no braking issues. This with the car running (92 Loyale 4wd/5sp/wagon) No fluid loss evident. I changed out the right rear axle bearing last summer and bled the brakes as per the instructions given elsewhere in the site. The sinking pedal remains unchanged. I would rather chase down the problem before it becomes a safety issue, not later. I have gone through this post : http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=39459&highlight=sinking+brake+pedal but the conclusions are kinda inconclusive :-\ and the o.p.'s problem was not quite the same (Pedal sank under firm pressure) Any ideas out there?

Had cold start/run issues with my EA-82 last winter (92 Loyale wagon). Serviced the idle air control valve, put a seal kit in the oil pump, installed a new t-stat, and cleaned up the temp sensor contacts this fall, all thanks to the good advice and how-to's here. Starts and idles just fine now (overnight ambient temps -25C last 2 days) The block heater makes it even better (the car was missing the connector cord last year) I get heat within 5 minutes after only 2 hours plugged in. 5-30 in the engine. Gearbox (5 speed 4 wheel drive) is like molasses, what are you guys running in yours?

grossgary makes a good "point" re: the 6 or 12 point sockets. I will always use a 6-point for the reasons stated. Anyway, when you take the damaged bolt to the store for replacement, you'll notice there are markings on the bolt head that indicate the strength rating. Try to duplicate that as well as the bolt size.

I'm really pleased to tell you that, after discovering a complete and loose heatshield system from the 2nd cat back to the exh. pipe mount at the rear axle, removing it cured the "marbles in a coffee can" rattles completely. Now I know there's no sign of detonation, and even better, no sign of rod knock. Of course now I can hear a squeak here and a rattle there, but they are pretty few for a 17 yr old car. Thanks to all for pointing me in the right direction.

FrankB, yep, I went through the EGR both on the bench and on the engine - no blockage of ports or poppet valve (cleaned them up anyway) and diaphragm is working properly. Engine stumbles at idle if I pull the diaphragm open with my Mityvac. As prev. mentioned, timing is 20 Deg BTDC as specified. Re: the O2 sensor question, I didn't think it would run right without it, and for sure I won't now. McDave, thanks for the info on the Y-pipe and heat shields. I already hose-clamped the loose outer shields on the driver-side pipe to no avail and your experience makes sense. I'll try checking that today. I'll report any progress. Thanks to all again.

The car doesn't seem to be down on power anywhere in the speed range - it'll pull cleanly to 150 KMH. But the rattling is back and loud as ever. (Imagine a coffee can full of marbles being shaken vigorously) It's also randomly independant of throttle or load, but somewhat RPM dependant. Here's another question - if (when:rolleyes:) I go through the exhaust, how sensitive would the EFI be to a missing O2 sensor?, or to a re-installed sensor in a gutted cat?

Thank you all for the comments - since this is originally a rust-belt (Southern Ontario) car that I believe has been rebuilt, and has 275,000 kilometers, I tend to agree with you. GD, now I understand your fear of knocking noises:rolleyes: . Geez, I hate working underneath rusty cars!! I'll post results when I get them.:-\

GD that really makes me feel good!!! :mad: Anyway, here's what was done today: Pulled the EGR, checked and cleaned the valve seat and passages, confirmed the diaphragm is good, as well as the solenoid vacuum control. (I have a MityVac - one of my better investments!!) Checked the Coolant Temp. sensor - the Haynes called for 2000-3000 ohms cold engine,(15 deg. C) and 700 to 1000 at 50 deg.C I got 1600 ohms at ambient of 25 deg.C, and 350 ohms at fully warmed up temp. (assume 195 deg.F per new thermostat rating) So I believe the sensor is operating correctly. As prev. mentioned, I had cleaned and checked the I.A.C., and re-sealed the oil pump, which had a de-formed and hardened Mickey Mouse o-ring. I hose-clamped the loose exhaust heatshields. Now I have a quiet engine, and there are no trouble codes. You can hear the odd valve lash adjustor noise on cold start but they're gone in 5 seconds or so. My neighbor, who is a pretty good wrench, and I tried to get noise out of it and failed. We even used the trusty stethoscope, and he's convinced there are no lower-end noises. Drive it down the road, though, and the rattling is still there. We conclude it's still exhaust-related. Comments?

Thanks, people. My Haynes has the EGR test procedure, and I did find a knowledgable thread here as well, the OP cured his detonation by restoring the EGR to correct operation. I think it has the test procedure for the coolant sensor and I will check that as well, although the pre-ignition is there right from start-up. Will work on it tomorrow and advise. Just took my modified Dodge on a 120 mile beer run, and it ate up about $60 worth of 89 Octane. Need the Soob badly!! (We're at a buck and a half a liter for 89, pushing 6 bucks a US gallon!!)

It appears under light to moderate load and part-throttle. It goes away under full throttle once past 2500 rpm or so. Good point on the fuel filter, as I have not replaced it, (I will) however the car has always made good power and the plugs were light tan so I think there's enough fuel. Can't work on it for a couple of days now but I think I'll check the EGR operation. Any opinions on retarding the initial timing?

Well, after fixing the rattling heatshields, servicing the IAC, installing a new T-stat, cleaning various electrical connections, replacing all timing belts, tensioners, idler bearing, crank and cam seals, spark plugs, and inspecting about everything else, the remaining noise in my 92 Loyale has to be detonation, and scary at that. Timing checks out at 20 deg. with the green plugs connected, however the dist. won't rotate (corrosion?) but I didn't worry too much about that as I understand spark advance is controlled by the ECU. I have seen comments here that a bad EGR could be responsible. I have the Haynes manual but hopefully you guys can supply some additional info before I bust more knuckles. (Mileage is 275,000 Kilometres, doesn't burn or use oil, good power)

OK, it's comin' off. And guess what? The cat has no heat shield at all on this car, whereas my old 84 EA-81 went through right-side axle boots until I made one up for the cat.

Thanks, all. Good point on the horns - I think my old Dodge horns are the one-wire type.

Why thanks, but when I open the attachment, there's a tiny image and I can click it all I want. Stays tiny. Probably a browser bug.

GD, no argument from me on that statement - BTDT . However, the ears on the 3-section heat shield are badly rusted, and have been tack-welded at some time in the past. So, next question - how important to the cat and the rack boot is the driver's side shield? (Pass. side exhaust pipe has no shield, and the rack boot is OK) Meanwhile, hose clamps are it for the short term.

Thanks, Dave. Guess I might as well drop the bumper while the rad and fan are out and see what I can do about getting horns working. If nothing else, I'll re-wire the harness to an underHOOD horn. BTW, the fan is still plugged into it's harness , so anyone else got an idea re the blue 2-wire connector?

Care to supply a readable image??

Finally got inside/under my 92 Loyale 4x4 wagon for much needed maintenance. One of the things I found was a white 4-pin male connector and short (10") 4-wire harness exiting from the main harness behind the pass. side headlight. Of course it's crammed full of oil and dirt, and not connected to anything - nor can I find a likely candidate to connect to. Wire/tracer colors are: blue/red, black/yellow, blue/white, red/white (or faded yellow). There is also a blue 2-wire connector adjacent to this one, no obvious mate. I'm assuming these are accessory harness' for A/c or ??, as my car is 5-spd, N/A, no air, no power windows. And I still haven't found the horn harness!! Anyone??

Exactly what I woke up thinking. Thanks for the JB Weld tip. Did you clamp at all the original bolt locations? Or just the ends?

Mudduck, do you mean to wedge a screwdriver down beside the bolt in order to put pressure on the insert, then try to loosen the bolt? Scoob and screwbaru, I hear you regarding either zips or no covers. First I gotta get the s.o.b. off, so I can replace the rt. side tensioner and o/haul the oil pump. Then , because of lots of sand and salt on the winter roads here, and who knows what on the logging roads, the covers will go back on, prob. with zips. Question remains - break the cover corner off if the bolt won't move??

Finally got time to do maintenance on the 92 Loyale. The embarrasingly noisy rattle is definitely the driver's side exhaust pipe heat shield - one bolt out of about 8 remains and the thing is just rattling around. Plus the steering rack boot above it is toast. Any suggestions on replacing the heat shield so the new rack boot doesn't fry?

Well, I guess I'll wake this thread up. Need to get the pass. side belt cover off to change a tensioner, and the bottom inboard bolt is spinning - I assume the insert has broken loose of the inner cover. Anyone got an easy fix, or should I just cut it away and carry on? (It's presently soaking in penetrant overnight) Zipties will be used during re-assembly

You could try talking to Andrew at Ironman Subaru up here in Penticton BC - very helpful - got me some rear wheel bearing stuff at a reasonable price. http://www.ironmancity.subarudealer.ca, 250-770-2002 (imagine - a plug for a dealer!!)