paulpicard

Well, I've had the 92 Loyale 5-sp 4wd wagon for a couple months now, and I've decided there are gremlins at work. I am aware of various maintenance procedures written up here re the efi stuff, but I'm also dealing with the following (intermittent) problems: cold start issues, clock!!!! (dead, sick, or healthy depending on the phase of the moon), ignition timing (ping/detonation at part-throttle tip-in) as well as no horn or backup lights at all. All o f this indicates problem connectors and/or grounds. So my question is: what's the best procedure to start with, before I go nuts trying random fixes. The car has 240,000 km's and is in decent shape considering it's a repainted eastern car. Passed emissions, runs well (but cool on the gauge) when it's warm, no leaks, good fuel economy. No maintenance history available, and I don't have a full body schematic to work with. So, where to start??

Mike, I have a cool-running 92 Loyale and I was about to do the reverse-flush thing as well as a system flush, but what's the deal with the thermostat? My temp gauge settles about 2 needles width off the cold mark and won't go higher, while my old EA81 would go to mid-point on the gauge and supply plenty of heat. wtf??

That's what I was wondering - if the nut is there. If not, need to find a giant-size drywall-type anchor (sheetrock, plasterboard, gyproc, whatever you call it in your neighborhood) They gotta be out there somewhere. Large nutsert? :confused:

Loyale (my 92) has 'em. Might retrofit?? Shouldn't be too hard - just the upper anchor point.

Hey eponodyne; don't you read the papers? My Canuck buck is now worth 102% of the Yankee dollar. So bring a little extra when you come shopping. Gotta admit that you still won't find your favorite smokes, and our beer cost a LOT more than yours, but someone's gotta pay my Universal Health Care. No free lunch. OK enough politics for now. xoomer, you ain't in West Van. if you're at 12th and Pine (or Fir), you're in the west side of Vancouver. If you're downtown at Denman and Robson, you're in the West End of Vancouver. And if you're in West Vancouver, you're in another municipality alltogether; on the North Shore in the very high rent district. Got that? There'll be a test later, kids. :)

Find out the rolling diameter of your current tires and then get some 14"'s of the same diameter - usually can be found at the mfr.'s web site under detailed specs.

Terrific response, people. This board is a great resource, and I thank all of you for your help.

Thanks much for the info, folks.

GD, I had to have the local machine shop weld a bead around the inside dia. of both the ring nut and inner race to shrink them then remove them. Both items were seriously rusted in place, and the ringnut tool was not available locally. Time was of the essence so thats how it got done. Ah, the benefits of living in the city are sometimes missed.

Testy, do you have any more details for the "old guy in Burnaby"? How to get ahold of him? Peugeot wheels are obviously the easy way out but I doubt any Peugeots have ever been seen in my neighborhood let alone in the local j/y. He had a Soob once for a year or 2 but nobody needed parts so he crushed it. GD, thanks for the added info. I do have a decent drill press so drilling the hubs isn't too scary. I assume one would use GM spec studs, or is there any appreciable difference from the Soob stud?

That include the inner race? Cost me $100 for the 2 bearings and inner race package. It was an SKF package but actually used Japanese (NT brand?) bearings. Then had to buy the inner ring nut retainer from Subaru ($20) as the old one got seriously deformed during removal. Then brought the control arm to our local machine shop to have the old inner race extracted. Hope yours is easier to disassemble. Reassembly is no sweat.

Thanks, gd. But can you give me some more details, or a link to a template? Use any of the stock holes? (I'm visualising the 12 and 6 o'clock stock holes with 4 new ones but that sounds too simple!!)

Well, I don't know where I got the 4x100mm from, but 4x140mm explains everything. Thanks, people:mad:

Couldn't find what I wanted by searching, so I'll ask - why I only see Peugeot wheels as a straight swap to Soobs. I am looking for another set of wheels with snows mounted, and come across lots of 4x100 stuff for other Japanese cars. Doesn't my Loyale have 4x100mm bolt pattern? Any reason I can't use Honda/Toyota 13 or 14" 4x100's?

You guys ever heard of antiseize? If you are successful removing the bolts, put 'em back with a dab of antiseize and they shouldn't give any more problems. 5 bucks or less at the parts store and you have enough for hundreds of bolts.

Apologies to all. I should have read the rear disc swap thread right under my last post, which covered the prop valve pretty well, although it still isn't clear as to whether a Loyale disc/drum has the same valve as a disc/disc. I believe I'll ask my new best friend at the nearest Soob dealer to compare part numbers.

I guess I should re-phrase that. I understand disc/drum systems require different front-rear proportioning than disc/disc. So should one get the correct valve from the turbo car when doing the swap?

prop valve bump??

Numbers from the BC registrations for both my soobs: 84 2wd 5speed EA81 no options wagon = 1048 kg. net 92 4wd SR 5speed EA82 no options wagon = 1129 kg net. Yes, I'll scale my Loyale and post the real weight soon:)

Well, it was a thought. Thanks, people Guess I'll consider the disc brake upgrade. I have read the posts in USRM, but didn't see any mention of a proportioning valve change. Anyone care to comment on that?

Will the rear drums from my 84 2 wheel drive wagon interchange with the badly corroded ones on my "new" 92 Loyale 4wd?

My Haynes manual says 4 liters (4.2 US quarts) Drain the oil, change the filter, add 3 qts, run for a minute, wait ten minutes, add enough to bring the oil level up to the upper mark on the dipstick. (Should take another liter/quart anyway)

At the risk of hijacking the thread, I have to ask - what makes a Touring Wagon worth rebuilding vs. your Loyale? Exactly what IS a TW, anyway?

Or, if you're lazy like me, I just paid $42 at the dealer for a new one for my 92 Loyale. Pleasant surprise - a dealer part under a hundred bucks!!

Passenger, curb, right side axle. That one? As opposed to the driver's, left side one. (Got snow in Rossland yet??)