bpm

if there is a groove on the crank, the easiest way to repair this is to use a speedi sleeve. just measure the crank with verniers and order one from your local parts shop. very easy to fit.

jeez, you must have a pretty clean brat (or wagon), good luck with the set screw method, that aint guna work. the tube isnt thick enough to tap a thread into mate, spose you could weld some nuts onto the tube for a thread but i guess that might be a little too "ghetto" for you. i didnt know they had TIGs in the ghetto...

ok, after trying the drill a bigger hole and bolt method, and then the cut a slot in the tube method, slop came back after a couple of days. so i got the shts, fitted a new selector shaft seal and welded the thing solid to the selector shaft. solid as a rock now, and you can still remove the shift lever if need be. only prob is going to be if i have to remove the rear housing of the box, but with the box out cutting the welds off will be easy.

i have done this conversion not too long ago. some people say you dont have to touch the frame rails but i found i had to massage them with a hammer. the engine fitted without doing this but touched when the motor rocked on its mounts when running. if your gonna lift it you will definetley have to cut and shut the rails to clear the cambelt covers. cut and strengthen the crossmember to clear the exhaust crossover pipe. i used the original dr 4speed so i dunno about the 5 speed conversion.

ive done a few piston swaps without splitting the block. getting em out is easy. getting em back in requires lots of patience and a piece of welding wire to lift the conrod up through the piston pin hole. grinding a small chamfer onto the piston pin also helps.

with the engine warm and the valve open, it will idle at about 2.5krpm:eek: . you will have to screw the idle down at the throttle body, but then it still wont idle when cold.......

it should be full open with the engine cold. it should slowly close over about 3-4 mins with 12v hooked up. the heat from the thermostat housing helps it shut too, but with just 12v hooked up it should be completley shut within 10 mins. if it doesnt move at all it is stuffed.

yep, just dug out the invoices, its an auto 1 part no.,GROUP 16 PART NO. 910C.

hey there, if ur in aus, you should have no problem finding a boss kit to suit and ea81. i have done a few and have just fitted a momo wheel to my brumby. got the boss from auto 1 in nsw.

hey fellas, just purchased a td04off an 03 wrx. just wanted to see how much laggier they are compared to the rhb5 on these engines (ea82t). anyone that has done the swap care to comment?

i can give u the pulse widths and timing settings from my 82t but im running a microtech, any help?

ok, forget the dyno debate, i fitted 9.5:1 pistons to my ea82t. i am running 15psi through an rs liberty cooler using stock injectors, a ford f250 fuel pump and an aussie Microtech engine management ecu. these run a map sensor only (no air flow meter) and has fully programmable fuel and ignition curves versus rpm and engine load. my wot afrs are at a nice and safe 12.2:1 as measured by wideband all the way to 7000rpm where the stocko rhb5 turbo is well out of puff. Power? buggered if i know or care, it goes ok for what it is. i have seen 10.5:1 engines run upto 20psi on our 98 octane fuel safely, make sure you have good intercooling and run the best engine management you can afford. its all in the tune.

rally cars hae antilag, off the throttle on decel, air is injected into the exhaust manifold and the injector open time is increased. when the unburnt fuel reaches the exhaust manifold it mixes with the fresh air it ignites, expands and spools the turbo (and creates very bloud backfiring). these things can make 6-7psi boost on decel. i have found with old ea81s and 2s if the idle mixture is lean u will get backfiring on decel. try winding ur mixture screw in a bit, not 2 much or it wont idle well. im usually doing the opposite, most people dont like decel backfiring.

i used an efi pump from a ford f250 as it had the 8mm sized intake which makes things a hellava lot easier. screwed it up under the tray in a coil bracket and ran a wire through the chassis rail up to the front where i used a relay to switch it. the only prob doing it this way is that the brumby return line is tiny, not really big enough for an efi car. you can run a new one in fuel hose, just make sure its well protected and secure.

sorry, already posted

compression can still be cood on a cylinder with a blown head gasket into a water jacket. water in the air fuel mix will stop that cylinder from firing. pull the plugs and pressurise the cooling system. let it sit for 20min with the cooling system pressurised. then crank the engine with the plugs out and watch the water shoot out of the effected cylinder.

thanks for ur reply dylan, hmmm youve got me thinking now, i pulled all the injectors and cleaned them before i did the conversion, but the first piston was the rear one on the non disy side and now its the front one on the same side. the fuel comes in on the other side of the rail so i wonder if its having distribution problems. something to check anyways. i might put a bung in that side of the exhaust and measure the mix for that bank only.

hey fellas, having a little trouble with my ea82t brumby. running 13psi through a legacy water to air cooler, 3in exhaust and custom down pipe and microtech programmable injection and ignition. problem is i keep breaking pistons, just pulled the motor again (2nd time) to slot in a new piston. i know its due to detonation but im buggered if i can hear it. air fuel mix measured by wideband is 11.8 t0 1 under full load which is pretty good for a boosted engine. timing at idle is 10 degrees and ramps up to about 29 degrees at 6500rpm. anyone know a good timing curve for these engines? disy has been locked. oh, 4got to say we run 98 octane fuel here in oz..

Loose timing belt on the disy side sounds like it could be right. a spun big end can be quiet at idle but when u give it a quick rev from idle or load the engine it will knock. usually wont effectidle speed,

sure its not a spun big end?

do an advanced search on me (bpm). you will find all the answers you need. i have just done this swap.

i have done this swap recently in a brumby. you have to cut a big chunk mout of the stock crossmember for the exhaust crossover. it doesnt quite fit between the frame rails, a little creative panelbeating fixes this. you must slot the original engine mount holes if using ea82t mounts. i bolted up to my brumby 4 speed using a drilled out ea81 flywheel and ea81 clutch. then there is little things like radiator and heater hoses and throttle cable bracket. then you need your efi fuel system, surge tank, high pressure pump and a decent sized return line. hope all this helps. i dont know if it will fit in the frame rails with a lift kit. i have been looking at doing a lift kit recently but im pretty sure it aint gonna happen without modding the frame rails properly.

Ok, its done, and goes quite well. had to cut a BIG chunk out of the standard crossmember and strengthen it because of the exhaust crossover. frame rails needed a slight massage with a big hammer and engine mount slots in the crossmember needed to be lengthened. drilled out the bolt holes on the standard flywheel and it all bolted together easily. took a total of 5 hrs from driving it into the shop to driving it out for some tuning. thanks all for your help.

ok, clutch and disy sorted, but now ive heard that it will not fit within the chassis rails without modification. can anyone confirm this?

thanks again, will get the parts you suggested and get stuck into it.