Manarius

mmmph. I've never even heard what piston slap sounds like. You probably just tightened up the timing belt which made it run better, that's all.

Dirty/Broken MAF makes the car run like crap, but it will run. It's a 97 though with the OBDII system. They're a lot more finicky then the OBDI systems.

Only if the alternator/PS steering belt breaks. WC runs off Timing Belt . You only gotta worry if you snap a timing belt. And if you have tools and a breaker bar, you could do the belt on the side of the road

If it came up that far, I bet it toasted the whole harness. I'm sorry man, but your car is probably toast. These cars take a lot of crap, but they can't take flooding up that far.

Depends which filter you're looking at. If you're talking about the one on the top of the strut, it's the fuel filter. If you're looking at the ground, I believe it's a transmission fluid filter.

Which, when they get old, break...off....into...little....pieces which I have to clean up . They do hold the carpet in pretty well though.

The question is. Why would you want 13's?

If the timing belt is broke, the car will turn over a lot faster than it normally does.

Replacing the MAF did my car right up. Hard to believe a little thing like that could make a car drive so badly.

Flushes are pretty much the death of old SVX transmissions. You wipe off that layer(varnish or whatever) and it causes the differential to pretty much explode. You just gotta be careful of what you're flushing.

If it's not getting any gas, it's probably the fuel pump. Undo the fuel pump connector under the seat and crank the car. Then undo the lead tube from the fuel filter(it's the one that looks like it's coming from the back of the car) and put it into a bucket. Reconnect the fuel pump connector under the seat and turn the selector to the on position (do it quickly (maybe 3 seconds), just so that if the pump works, you don't waste too much gas). If gas goes into that bucket, you know it's not a fuel pump issue. Be prepared because it might be a lot of gas that goes into that bucket. After that, try replacing the fuel filter. Or, if it's a hot start issue, try replacing the coolant temp. sensor. It's $37.99 + tax from autozone.

I'd have the timing belt done. They are right about the new Subaru's being interference...if the timing belt breaks, you need a new engine. It's about that simple. It's not like the good old days where you break a belt and nothing happens. Maybe your shifter bushings are shot. That could account for the bit of shaking in the shifter. Don't bother having them mess with the throttle body, it's not worth it.

So, how did the timing belt go out without the pistons running into the valves? Every engine post 1997 that Subaru made is interference....right?

Dude. I have a class 2. How cool is that! (I have one like the 96 Leg's)

No, the bulb must be wrong. It should fit in. Check your other parking light. Can you get the other parking light and check that one? Subarus are meant to be easy. Taking the lens off is not. Therefore, it must not be the right way.

If it's anything like my Legacy, you should just be able to remove the socket and bulb as one unit. You know..turn the socket to the left or something and pull straight out.

It doesn't have any more problems than any of the other models pre-1996. The most common one is probably rust on the quarter panels and fenders. Other than that, these things are pretty bulletproof vehicles. If it has a lot of miles, it may leak a little bit of oil, but not too much.

I've been looking around for a set for my car. They're darn near impossible to find.

I'm pretty sure I have a class I hitch on my car. It has a 200lb tongue max with a 2000lb tow max. It works great for me. I can tow my sail boat and a trailer full of tanbark with no problem.

Yeah, all the EJ22's pre-1997 have HLA's. If it's just a light tap, it's probably a stuck lifter. It happens. If it's really loud, it might be something else.

It would probably work..but why would you want to use a lowgrade pump for a high grade engine?

Some of it, perhaps. But irrelevant because trying to chase down all the necessary parts and wiring them in would be worth more than the time or effort needed to install the Cruise Control.

Well, the fact that the bolts rusted out tells me that there's a seal issue around those bolts. This means that in the future, if not attended to, could mean that the trunk lid would more more inclined to rust around those bolts, which would spread to the entire trunk. So, I think you may have nipped something in the bud by noticing that. Or, I'm just full of crap. Either way, just hope that they get your car fixed correctly and that they don't screw it up or screw you in the process.

You'd still need the switch for the steering wheel. And the control unit in the right side of the dash. Odds are that it isn't wired in already.

Are their VIN's similar? Does yours start with 4S4 and her dad's start with JF1 or vice-versa? That could make a difference.