Manarius

Any particular reason 92-95? The major blocks of Legacy history(Pre-2000) are 89-94 and 95-99. In 95, there was a major body style change and with that change came a new set of peculiarities. With the 89-94 Legacies expect to look at these things: Normal Wear and tear things (Timing, Acc, Alt belts, Plugs, Wires, Coilpack (not always), fuel pump) A few electrical things surrounding the fuel pump, but nothing major Crank Seals front and rear will probably leak a little If it has a sunroof, it might leak a little It may have a little bit of rust depending on where it came from Rear Wheel Bearings go on occasion (not too often though) 95-99 I'm not so sure about. I have noticed there are a lot of similarities between my 91 and my friend's 97, but...there are some major differences.

1. Yes 2. Yes 3. No mileage gain or loss. The FWD fuse is for diagnosis only. Not for trying to get better gas mileage. The AWD transmission is not meant for driving in FWD mode.

You gotta get the front facia off first. It surrounds the sides of the radio.

I don't know which year Legacy springs you used, but the 90-94 are notorious for having that front end raised thing. It's not that you did anything wrong, it's just the way the car looks.

EJ20T's came off of RHD cars, so I think a little bit of modding would need to be done there. One of the guys on the BBS dropped in a EJ20G, but I know it cost him a lot of money.

*sigh* Please read before you mis-interpret torquebind. http://legacycentral.org/library/torquebind.htm Sloppy clutch packs and solenoid C being busted is cause for AWD not to engage, not for the infamous torquebind as described by most early Legacy owners.

Legacy. Newer engine, newer drive system, bigger car, more reliable. Bigger fanbase (http://bbs.legacycentral.org)

Yay for non-interference low compression EJ22's like my car!

I support this idea as well. Broken trannies don't click. At least, none that I've ever heard of. They usually just shear off gears and then the car doesn't move.

EJ22's don't go through headgaskets. Unless you look in your coolant reservoir and see black stuff, I don't think it's headgaskets. Water pump though, sounds like a real possibility. Just don't drive it anymore, mmkay?

No. You could only force the 5MT transmission on that vehicle to RWD if you welded the front differential. Remember, on AWD equipped cars, Front Differential and transmission are all in one big box. 5MT AWD transmissions are 50-50 split via Viscous Coupling unit. There are no transfer clutches like on the Autospastics. I still don't think the transmission is the problem.

Subaru - The beauty of All Wheel Drive. Gotta love 'em

I fixed your post for you.

I'll give you that. However, the SVX transmission is not a push button 4WD transmission. It's a 4EAT AWD with a solenoid that can make the split 50-50.

You could, but that requires welding the center differential. And even if you do swap to a SVX transmission, the rear drive still has to match.

*sigh* Torque bind is not a sticky solenoid C or worn out clutches. Torque Bind is shutter during low speed and/or sharp turns. Clunking AWD is almost always solenoid C being worn out.

5MT AWD transmissions are 50-50 Viscous Coupling units. The only clutch involved is the one that you mash when you're short shifting :-p Clunking to me doesn't sound like transmission problems. I would tend to think it was something suspension related...Control Arm, Strut Mount, engine mount, something like that. Transmissions, when they break, well, for one, they break. You don't describe having any shifting problems. Transmissions grind, smash and crash, they don't clunk. I think this "Subaru Tech" is taking for you a $1200+ trip.

Only the Alpine Sport came with that option. Perhaps your car got repainted or something (It has the stock roof racks..)

It's a really rare option. As far as I knew, the only option for mirrors was a JDM power folding mod.

Try this link: http://www.legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm

I've run 20-50w year round now for 2 years. In the summer, I can almost break 23 MPG with a EJ22 and 4EAT. In the winter, it hovers around 20-21 MPG. And that's with a pedal happy teenager behind the wheel. If I run lighter oil, it just leaks out all over the place. Darn you crank gaskets. BTW, my car takes 4.6qt because I have the square pan

Mine's been on for almost 100k miles and it works just fine. That 60k stuff is crap. 100k is probably a better interval. Mind you, this is Subaru saying this and everytime you take it to them to do it, they charge you 70+ an hour for labor so they just nail you. Besides, if the timing belt breaks on our cars..so what. It's not like the engine will explode or anything. Remember, pre-1997 EJ22's are not interference

I wrote a guide on how to change the fuel filter on most 1990+ Subaru's (Specifically Legacy's) Here's the thread on the BBS if anyone is interested: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=27585 (I can get the code if you really want to add it)

3.545 is correct. However, if one changes rear diff's, they must also change transmissions. And for those who don't know, SVX transmissions suck.

Drive should be just fine. I've towed around 600-1000 lbs with my 91 AWD Legacy with no problems...and I have a smaller engine! I don't know if transmission coolers are installed on those or not. I know my car has one